J Hayes

Try posting under "leather sewing machines" somebody should know something.

So I've read that sometimes one can stack leather washers on an awl blade limiting its depth thus making a smaller hole, maybe it'll work for your situation.

Looks really nice, your stitches are spot on. What weight did you get?

Thank you WScott, it was a bad move on my part, I jumped to a conclusion and apologize for it.

+1

My apologies for my bad post, shame on me.

I've spelled that incorrect so many times myself! No worries. Do you have the P35? What staple size and what oz leather do you use? Are the staples stainless steel?

http://www.zackwhite.com/ spelling is off on the link above Is the NevaClog preferred over the Arrow P35 or Rapid brand for some reason?

Yes that one for freehanding. Or this one if you want to stay parallel to an edge. http://springfieldleather.com/29076/Groover%2CStitching%2CAdjustable/

You may be able to bring back some shine with kiwi neutral shoe polish, although I doubt it will bring back any stiffness. The wallet looks good to me though.

Yeah, looks to be a manufacturer of bags and such.....seems like a spam posting, even I have better grammer.......

Wow, nice! Looks as if your splitter slides out so you can put iy away when not in use, am I correct? What splitter is that anyway? Also like the use of the magnetic tool holders.The bench itself is beautiful as well. Jeremy

This interests me, not trying to hijack a thread but would you expand on this please? Jeremy

I typically only use the smooth dog and double toe foot. I sew holsters mainly. I did mess with some of the other plates but felt it wasn't worth my time as I liked the way it sewed with the dog and double toe. Someday maybe I'll find use for those extras.

Welcome to sewing machines! Sometimes that wirey springing thread will cause all kinds of problems, the loop will not form properly and the hook may miss it completely, causing skipped stiches or the hook can pierce the top thread causing fraying. Also moving the work at the wrong time in the needle stroke can cause issues, turning before it rises 1/4, or tilting the work too. I did a belt the other day and dropped stiches (mine never missed any before) well the belt was kinda flopping around a bit causing the needle to move causing thr hook to miss. I didn't watch you videos yet so thats purely an observation of my own work. Keep at it, you'll get it.

So anybody use Flitz? Jeremy

The blender trick at my house would surely cause trouble! I'm not sure if rubber would bind in the auger of a meat grinder, share your results if you try it. Sawdust and Barge, they have good traction? Where did you come across the lasts?

Very nice. Did you end up mixing the Barge with leather dust or rubber bits?

I like the veg double shoulder from RJF, cuts nicely and molds really well for concealed carry holsters I make. Ive tried a few others, now I have to sell a buncha belts....

Maybe just crappy thread? I'll have to look I might have one of those, sewed really good with 92 but didn't like 138....

Yup. I agree, any tool that doesn't work properly has no place in any shop. There are advatages for the craftsman if he/she knows how to maintain their equipment, sometimes there is less downtime if you can fix it yourself and you don't rely totally on a repair shop, nothing against them at all. There is also a point of diminishing return on repairing equipment yourself, just because you can fix it or make it doesn't mean it makes economic sense. Being able to time, adjust and replace a few things can be priceless and a huge timesaver, but having a machine that requires constant dickering would be a huge cost in lost time and production which equals money.

By the time you're done you'll know that machine very intimately, knowing all its quirks, probably best to keep it rather than try to learn a new one of the same class. Besides it seems like a good machine, and with a new hook you should be golden, and will know how to work on it, which can be kinda fun in itself.

Nicely done. Fun to have a metal lathe. I saw somebody on here that mounted theirs vertically on the end of their bench, saving the bench space, may or may not work for your situation.

Might the CB3200 fit your needs? Comes in @ $1595, not much more than a boss, plus if Bob is just down the road that'd be real handy if you need service. That 3200 is a new model, slightly less thickness capabilities and a 10.5" arm. I've never worked on saddles so I don't know what one would need in a machine for them, but I bet it'd handle all of your holster and sheath needs. Plus with a powered machine you have both hands to guide large and/or awkward work. Pullin' that arm making collars would get old real fast.

Bruce Johnson had a few 6" Osborne #86, might be worth just buying one instead of building one. Or look at the tandy one or I think Cowboy has one, see ebay. Might give you ideas on how to cam the roller down so you can start thr split