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J Hayes

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Everything posted by J Hayes

  1. J Hayes
    I put a small flat on mine just to keep it "indexed" in my hand, helped keep the same angle to the holes.
  2. J Hayes
    +1 for RJF, natural double shoulders 8/9 great flesh side, I get them natural, no gum. Cut easily, mold very well and dry good and stiff. $17 for shipping on one that csme to WI last week.
  3. J Hayes
    I use a 1 5/8 Osborne, it was sharp as my elbow when I got but now works great. I have a short "belt" that gets forced through the slots when I'm wet molding, I like to form the slots and kinda shape the holster so its curved like my hip. YMMV I also have EMT and stainless punches for starp ends and those work great too
  4. J Hayes
    http://harborfreight.com/500-lb-horizontal-toggle-clamp-96233.html Might aid in the speed of the cylinder arm machine swap?
  5. J Hayes
    Nice!
  6. J Hayes
    http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/Parts.singerco.com'>http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/Parts.singerco.com should be free http://parts.singerco.com/ start here, instructions and repair guides I have a 153w101 and just behind the thread guide on the very top center of thr machine mine has a big thumb screw that goes through the machine to the flat spring that runs the length of the arm behind the arm. Look there, not sure yours is the same.
  7. J Hayes
    Parts.singerco.com I think has a manual for that machine, might be better than the one you have?
  8. J Hayes
    If those have the push down lever attach a cable, drill a hole in the table for it to run through and add a foot pedal. I have seen a long arm machine with a factory pedal reverse. Cannot remember what make though.
  9. J Hayes
    Pretty cool history lesson, thanks!
  10. J Hayes
    Any luck?
  11. J Hayes
    Unfortunately I think most of the new punches need sharpening, even the Osborne stuff I've gotten has been pretty poor edge wise even the mini punch, K157 I think, some had flat cutting edges. I have gotten a few awesome ones from Beiler's marked BHT, bright polished and sharp,but I also got a dud marked O'brien. Bruce Johnson would be a good source for a ready to go tool though. Sending them out dull must cut the costs.....
  12. J Hayes
    I think every manufacturer has their own numbers and they are not the same. I think I have a #2 keen edge and it measures 0.056" between the toes. My #1 Gomph is 0.075" between the toes and my #2 Gomph is 0.132" between the toes. I use the #1 Gomph on my holsters which I make from 8/9 oz, I use it on single layer and double layer. Hope this is helpful. Nice collars.
  13. J Hayes
    You're most likely right on the selling price, good tools seem difficult to find.
  14. J Hayes
    Good to know. It looks like a really nice splitter. I see Weaver has a copy as does Zack White, both much less money than the Randall, I'm assuming those two are import copies? Lesser quality steel? The thickness settings on those looks less refined than on the Randall.
  15. J Hayes
    "Cost"is far more than just the price of something. An inexpensive piece of hardware can save you money on the front end yet cost you a customer or a reputation down the road when it fails, negating the buck or two saved up front. If its worth doing do it well, and use parts that you would use on your personal bag, holster, notebook cover, etc. The only problem with solid hardware is the limited styles it comes in, there are far more and fancier styles in the cast zinc and plated. Just my .02 definitely not trying to step on any toes.
  16. J Hayes
    I was looking at their splitter actually, I might just give them a call. Does anyone have one of the Randall machines? My blade dose appear to be a bi metal blade, the seam is a good 3/8" back from the edge though so there may be hope for it...... Jeremy
  17. J Hayes
    I like solid metal. No plating to wear off. Looks like you offer a lifetime warranty, if I were you I'd be using atuff that will last, zinc stuff is typically cheaper, for a reason. It would suck to have to warranty something for a cheap buckle that pitted and the plating pealed. Just my thoughts and what I do whenever I can.
  18. J Hayes
    Reaper, Yes many reservations on a new one being sharp. Im looking into a good used one, meanwhile im going to have a knifemaker try hardening and tempering mine, its really no good the way it is, so even if it warps or cracks I won't be out much, i feel its worth a shot. I'll probably ask him about duplicating it too.
  19. J Hayes
    Maine thread. I've used the 3 ply, it was a bit smaller than 7 cord Barbours linen, next time I'd get 4 ply.
  20. J Hayes

    Vintage Tools

    J Hayes replied to KLL's topic in Leather Tools

    Also have an interest. Thanks Jeremy
  21. J Hayes

    What Tool?

    J Hayes replied to Deadlance's topic in Leather Tools

    Check out GRS engraving tool, Graversmith is nice and much quieter than listening to that dang flexshaft. You'll need an air compressor to run it. Still can be noisy though.
  22. J Hayes
    I have an old 86 Osborne 6" splitter and have been fighting with the blade. The edge is soft and rolls over, getting very frustrated with it, way to much time has been wasted so I am looking for options. 1. Has anyone sent a blade out for hardening and tempering? 2. Has anyone gotten a new blade from Osborne and are they any good? 3. Get a whole new splitter, maybe from Bob? Thanks Jeremy
  23. J Hayes
    Jeweler can silver solder it. Or even laser weld it. The wood fix would probably last for years Jeremy
  24. J Hayes
    Gotta use them both, or at least I do. The stop is basically just a much finer abrasive, polishing the edge and removing the burr. I have a surgical hard Arkansas stone which leaves a really nice finish, super fine, but I'll strop it with Flitz 5-6 strokes per side and its nearly a mirror finish and seems to glide through the leather easier. You really don't even need stones, wet/dry sandpaper will do the job too, followed by the Flitz. Just my method, YMMV Jeremy
  25. J Hayes
    Try the 138 top and bottom. I have a Singer 153w101 and thats what I run with a 22 needle. I sew mainly 2 layers of 5/6oz chrome tanned on it, it'll do 3 layers but I think its pushing its limits. What do you plan on sewing? Jeremy
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