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J Hayes

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Everything posted by J Hayes

  1. Are the threads on the main shaft under adjustting knob "L" broken? I have a 153w101 with the same type of stitch length adjustment and pretty much all my threads are gone. Someone spread the slot on the shaft giving more tension and now I just push it in or pull it out for adjustments. Set it at 6 and it hasn't moved, I don't sew on it much though.
  2. Welcome, Hopefully it helps you a bit. I'll check it against a couple of my Gomph creasers later
  3. From my Gomph catalog Jeremy
  4. My old HF Osborne is 1.38" and .427" thick, the new Weaver is 1.86" if that helps at all. The HF is over 100 years old and is likely much shorter than it was when new. My guess is the blade Bruce will be getting from Osborne will be about 1.75", now we just wait in suspense for him to report back.......
  5. Nice looking stuff Bruce! Them splitters look great
  6. Let us know how it comes out. I do think even the old ones started life in the 15-17degree range, over the years I could see how someone would just grind the leading edge slowly increasing the angle over the years. Both my CS and HF Osborne were ground nearly all the way to the spine leaving maybe a 1/4" of flat on the top. Keep track of what it takes you to make that blade, I'd bet you could sell a few
  7. The bimetal splitter blade isn't wrapped, just a hard piece fused to the leading edge. You're probably right in it not being any easier to sharpen, just the rear 3/4 of the blade will grind easier than the front hardened portion. So far I'm very pleased with the Weaver, good hard steel. The Osborne I had was about 17degrees.
  8. The reason for the long grind is to get the cutting angle low, 15 degrees in the case of my weaver. Blade is 1.86" along the bottom flat and .5" thick on the spine. Shorter grind equals steeper angle and a steeper angle makes for a harder pull. I notice this a lot with a few of my old round knives, a small Rose that has a hefty shoulder is more difficult to push than a small Gomph that has a fine thin taper, that one cuts like butter. Both knives are very sharp, just that thicker blade on the Rose has to push more material aside to make the cut. The bimetal blades were probably made for cost savings way back when, not sure if there's a good reason in current times for a bimetal splitter blade other than sharpening might be a touch easier by only have 3/8"-1/2" of hard steel to grind. Bimetal splitter blades have the leading edge as tool steel, not really "within" just leading the way. Just my views Jeremy
  9. Possibly the 111. Do you have a complete number for it? Where are you located? Jeremy
  10. Welcome. It sure would be fun to know how to run that stuff. Endless possibilities. Will you be able to cut steel stamps once you are CNC equipped?
  11. It did seem to go for less than I thought it would, should make a really nice splitter after cleaning and sharpening
  12. I have mine set just slightly behind. You got a book with yours?
  13. http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/T_Nuts_304_Stainless_Steel_p/124000.htm Stainless ones here
  14. I think it was one of him doing a messenger bag
  15. I watched a video of Nigel Armitage stopping well before the corner, placing his iron in the corner and working out to meet up leaving the smaller stitch in the middle somewhere, looked like a great way to do it.
  16. High Desert Leather and The Blue Gun store both have them
  17. You can order the snaps directly from http://www.dotfasteners.com/index.html $50 minimum but thats easy to hit. Plus from them you can get stainless steel and different post lengths and also hard action and extra hard action sockets, extra hard are nice for thumb break on holsters. You can also order from YKK, again a $50 minimum. I've ordered from both, like the finish on the YKK one way snaps better so I end up ordering from both places. I know I'm getting the quality snaps from these guys.
  18. Check the for sale section too, usually something listed there too
  19. Bruce, how about some pictures of the coveted Dixon?
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