brathair

JJ, thanks for the post. Your right that does cast it in a little different light. That sure would be a lot easier than what I was thinking. I am going to have to do some experimenting both ways. I will have to post pics of what I come up with. And yes the leather does look a little thin. I usually use a 7/8oz on this type of holster which is thin enough.

Thanks for the reply. I agree It looks like it was press molded. I was thinking right along the lines of what you said as far the spacing my only concern was the ability to stretch the leather enough. I thought about leaving more room to work but then considered that it might create (for lack of a better term) wrinkles or seams in the leather if I did. I think I might do just what you said and take the top piece and mold it then cut the outline for the holster out and glue it to the back and go from there.

Can anyone set me in the right direction by giving me some guidelines specific to this type of holster? I have made plenty of Iwb holsters. I have never attempted to make a closed bottom holster in the likes of this one before. The holster will be for a glock 30 which is very similar to the gun in the pic. Just think very fat and stubby. My problem is I don't know where to begin setting my margins for the muzzle in a holster of this type. The holster design will not be exactly like this but I do want it closed around the muzzle in a similar manner. The back of the holster will also be relatively flat, reminiscent of the modified pancake holster designs. Any help would be appreciated before I begin experimenting. BTW. To give credit where it is due.. I believe the holster pictured is made by Brigade Gun Leather.

Does anyone know where I can find a Taurus pt738 dummy? I checked the typical blue gun suppliers as well as ASP red guns with no luck. I am currently trying to contact Duncan. If anyone has one and can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

Your welcome.

Looks like a fun project. PM sent.

Assuming you are speaking of the Marine Corps Combat Knife with a 7" blade and a leather washer handle then the dimensions are as follows: Circumference of handle approximately: 3 3/8" Kbar factory sheath retention strap: 5"X13/16" Center to center distance between male and female end of snaps approximately: 4 1/16" Hope that helps

Zastava CZ99/EZ9/EZ40

If you have a good hardware store or auto parts store near by you can use upholstery buttons. They work just as well as anything else, and may be closer to you than other sources. The trick is finding them in the right size. Not everyone is going to stock them.

I am going to agree with what everyone has said but also offer a little voice of dissent. I would stick with the cheaper leather right now. Tandy leather is admittedly not as nice as the Herman Oak and others. However, you are still practicing your molding and getting your patterns down. If the Tandy leather is cheaper for you to buy go with it. I have gotten descent results with Tandy leather and have used it on a number of occasions because it was what was available at the moment. You are still going to be able to improve while using the Tandy. There will come a point when your skill will be beyond the materials you are using but it is my personal opinion that you will recognize that point when in comes. In the meantime practice with what is cheap. Now if you have the extra money go ahead and spend it if you are curious as to the differences in the leather. JMO

Thanks for the link. I will give it a look.

Hi all, I am looking for any information I can find on 1900-1913 U.S. Calvary Officer gun leather. I have a client who is looking to have a rig made for Wild Bunch shooting. The costume he is putting together if for a Calvary Officer of the above time period. He has already ordered some of the Wild bunch specific rigs and wants to get something more period correct. I have a copy of Packing Iron unfortunately it only covers up to just before this transitional period. I have done a few internet searches as well but am still not finding the information I am looking for. Any guidance, pictures, patterns, links, etc. that anyone could offer would be very much appreciated. Thanks P.S. I will of course be asking the client all of this and more but I want to do my homework before our phone call this week.

Hopefully one of you is a history buff or Reenactor. I am looking for any and all the information I can find on the uniform worn by Calvary officers at the turn of the century just prior to WWI. I am more particularly interested in the gun leather and sidearms that and officer would have carried at this point in time. Patterns, pictures, links etc. would all be helpful. Thanks

Thanks for all the pictures everyone. That is just what I was looking for. I like it and I'm going for it. Much appreciated.

Does anyone have any experience using 346 thread to sew heavy projects with, as opposed to a 277. I sew mainly holsters and gun belts made of leather that ranges between 8-12oz. I have always used a 277 nylon or poly thread. I found a good deal on some 346 thread though and am thinking of switching to take advantage of it. I like the way the 277 looks on my projects. I know on paper the 346 is heavier but I have never personally seen or handled the thread. How much of a difference is there going to be visually if I sew with the heavier thread. I use thread that contrast my leather colors so that it stand out. I don't mind the thread showing I just don't want the thread to overwhelm the projects because it is too large. Thanks.

Here are some pics of the setup I use. It is a simple box made of the drop from my cedar fence posts. The boards are rough cut and just laid next to each other before I screwed them together. This makes so there is about a 1/16" gap between boards. I believe the dry cedar along with the gaps in the box make for better drying. The added benefit you get from the cedar is a pleasant aroma. I use two 100w work lights as my heat source. I used to stick a thermometer inside the box and watch the temp closely. However I found that the hottest this box will get even after hours of running is about 132 degrees, so I don't even worry about it anymore. If you do decide to build a box use a non-sappy wood like redwood or cedar. All in all the box is about 3'X3'X6" plenty big enough for several holsters, and most any of my projects for that matter. The box also has a cedar lid made of the same fence post boards. You can't see it in the pic but I just lay the top on...no hinge.

I really like the brown with ostrich inlay. It looks to be a standard yellow. Do you remember what brown you used to match it?

You should be able to find everything you are looking for here. http://www.highdesertleather.com/id74.html If you want something local to you I have had some success in the local hardware stores and automotive parts stores. You can attach a metal reinforcement piece/ thumb break with the snaps of your choice. You can then purchase plastic pieces that protect the guns finish from the snaps at the hardware/automotive stores. What you will be looking for is the plastic thumbtack looking pieces that are used to secure upholstery, door panels, and the like to the interior of cars. They look like plastic thumbtacks with barbs, but I have no idea what these fasteners are called. Just push them into the hole in the center of the snap back and trim the inside so it does not effect how the snap functions. below is a picture of one I have used with Tandy line 24 snaps.

I didn't find a topic quite like this on the search, so... I am curious to see if anyone out there has any favorite dyes/stains that they like to combine to make an original color for their holsters? Also what color combinations are your favorites when doing two tone, or inlay pieces? I know as for myself when I am looking for a deeper red I like the color I get when mixing Fiebings yellow and Ox Blood.

That is if you are still looking for it.

I happen to have a copy of Dave Jones' Making and Repairing Western Saddles in front of me. The images of what he terms the gaucho weave are on pages 64-67. I don't know if you still have a copy of the book so I will include Dave's explanation of how to accomplish the weave found on pages 63 and 64 of the above mentioned book. 1. Push the leather lace through the top holes. Work from yourself toward the center. Feed the lace back to yourself through the same holes. 2. Push the right top lace through next lower hole to the left. Push the left lace through the opposite hole to the right. 3. Push the lace through the top hole again, from underneath. If you want a flexible job, push the left lace though the left hole. It isn't important to have flexibility here, so the left lace is pushed through the top right hole and vice versa. 4. Push the top left lace under the second-hole lace. 5. Bring the top right lace to the third hole and pass it under lace that has just been used--the top-left. 6. The top left lace has been run through the third hole to the right. Now both laces come from underneath and run through the second hole. Repeat the process until the lacing is finished. 7. Lace across the bottom to finish the lace. Push the lace up through a few strands on the underside and cut off. I hope that helps. I know it may not be the easiest set of instructions to follow without a diagram. I would also be interested in seeing if anyone has one that can be viewed online.

Started out as a LEO then moved to working with troubled youth in RTC settings. It was there and my experience with the BSA both as a Scout and Scout Master that I was introduced to leather working techniques. I served a time in the Army, and am now a Nurse.

Well I thought I would finally take the time to introduce myself and say hello. I have been browsing the sight for some time now and have not posted because everything that I could possibly ask or add has already been said. Needless to say I am a big fan of the forum and those involved. Thanks, to all. Now a little about myself. I got started in leather working after inheriting a Tandy carving set from my father. My attention quickly went from carving to making holster. Within the last few years my family and I have moved from the east coast to Utah, and I have begun a love affair with Sheridan style carving and would love to learn more.Having said that I am interested in just about everything and love to tinker. Thanks, again to all for a great wealth of info on this sight.