TheTrooper

Big THX to all of you !! This Forum is the greatest ever Cheers, Marcel @tonyc1 I think Bruce means this ones : Sharpie Website

Dear all, a friend of mine has some autographs of Pro Pool players on his cue case. He wants to protect this autographs from fading. Has someone of you a hint or me / him ?!? I was thinking of aplying a coat of resolene on it ?!? Is that helpful ?!? Cheers, Marcel

Hi Pitman, nice sheaths you make ! Nice to have you aboard. I have a question. Where do you get your materials such as thread, closure & fasteners ?? Do you have a salesman in Poland ?? Keep up the good work. Cheers, Marcel

Hi Tom, very nice purse you did there !! Could you please tell me in which thread there was written something about this black/red effect ?!? I´ve searched, but wasn´t able to find it. Cheers, Marcel

@TomSwede Here I have some pics from the inside and one from the buttom. Cheers, Marcel

Hello John, Thank you so much for your post. You can´t imagine how important it is for me, to hear this from a real master cue case builder. Also THX for the hints, i will keep them in mind, when I make a case for a customer. I already posted this also to AZ...and got a request for a few cases *lol Cheers, Marcel

No problem Tom, this one is definetly a keeper. If anyone wants a case I can make another one. I also think that nobody wants a case with my nickname and my business name (if I establish it some time :-) on it . Regards, Marcel

Hello Tom, THX for your comment. Yes I used a liner on the inside. I will make some pics asap. I choosed those parts on purpose to not overload the whole thing. I was thinking about using some more medieval parts, but I liked the automatic-turn lock better. For the top closure I just wet the leather a bit put it around a piece of plywood and put some nails into it (same for the buttom closure). I will also make you some pics of the handles. But this is quiet simple. I made a leather strip with my prefered length and width (4oz veg tan), then I´ve prepared a "wrap" of a thinner and smoother leather (2oz). I thinned out one side (the side which will be on the buttom side, to get a nice and even surface), glued it on the top side of the strip, wrap it once around, glue it on the buttom side, let it dry. Then I made just one hand sewn line in the middle of the wrap. Thats all. As I said, the pics will follow. Cheers, Marcel P.S: Here a pic of the interior. It´s from conventinional plumber and electrics tubes. It is lined with a synthetic suede substitute, which has teflon covered fibres which makes it moisture and dirt resistant.

So, yesterday evening I completed my case. Here are the first pictures of it. What do you think ?!? Cheers, Marcel

For the pouch I used 4oz. veg-tan leather. As far as I know on chrome tan leather tooling would not be possible. Cheers, Marcel

@Spider here are some updates from this project. Currently I am sewing the backpart together. On this pictures I already sewed the pouch and the patch. i also mounted the handle onto the case-body.

THX a lot, for the kind words and the hints. The font I have used was "Aniron". I got it from dafont.com. This is great resource for fonts, almost free ones :-) I also hope, that I can show up the finished product soon. Cheers, Marcel

Dear all, I am already working on another cue case for me. This is the carving I have already done. I know I have to learn a lot more, but for the 2nd attempt I think it is OK. Especially the mistakes I have made while "walking" the tools are not nice, but I think this is all a matter of practice. What do you all think ?!? Any hints from you ?? Cheers, Marcel

..THX a lot guys. I will practice more and consider your hints. I will tell you about the results. Cheers, Marcel

Dear all, today I did the following practice piece: My Question is how can I avoid the huge gap between the letter and the beveled part, or how can I smooth it in a way that it´s not vissible anymore?!? Or did I something generally wrong (maybe in the way I cutted) ? I know that I have to improve my cutting a lot, but this is "just" a practice matter. THX a lot in advance, Marcel

Dear all, maybe it´s a dumb question, but how can a I get a swivel knife blade sharp ?? I ordered a blade from Tandy, which are not pre-sharpened. I used the following tutorial Swivel knife sharpening. What I used is the keen edge sharpener and some fine wet griding paper (p800,p1200,p2000) on a hard surface (metal plate). But somehow I´m not able to get the blade sharp. What could I make wrong during this procedure ? Hope someone has a hint for me. Cheers, Marcel

Dear abn, THX for the hint. I´ll try it out. I also think, that using a Q-Tip works best, I use them also for applying gum to my edges. Cheers, Marcel

THX Guys for the hints, another question I have, what do you normally apply first ?? The edge dye or the "whatever" dye (spirit, antique, etc.)?? I had the problem with the Fiebings Edge Dye (with applicator), that when I applied the dye some of it has came over the edge onto the tooling side. On this places the oil-dye would not stick anymore. This was the reason why I thought it is better to apply the dye on the tooling side first and then coloring the edges. In wich way are you doing this ? Cheers, M.

...and what are the advantages of them ?? As a newbie I asked my the question, why should edge dyes be used ?? Could not a conventional dye also do the job ? Hope someone of you can help me. Regards, Marcel

Hello Jim, glad to have you here. I would appreciate it, when you would share some of your knowledge with us. From my point of view you´re making one of the nicest cue cases around. I´m also starting making some cue cases here in germany. Hope I can do them as good like you, one day :-) Cheers, Marcel

THX for that link Peter. It seems to be the right company. At least the article number of the rivets are the same compared to the one from OTB. How did you got that information ?!? Interesting is, that the export agency from them for US is OTB :D @esantoro I mailed OTB also yesterday. And they also said to me that they could not give out this information. But it seems that we got it anyway... Have a nice weekend, Marcel

At the moment I´m at work and could not scan the rivet box. But I have the bill from Ohio Tavel Bag (OTB) here. Nicely they write also the Origin Country of the product onto the Bill and there written "BE", so the country code for Belgium. I wasn´t also not able to find something in the Internet. I tried also goggle.be, but just with the english words. So it can be that google couldn´t find anything, when the websites are not in english :-( Maybe you have some better luck. I was a little bit worried, because "Jiffy Rivet" is a trademark, so this should be also found via the internet. But maybe the manufacturer has no website ?!? Regards, Marcel

Yes, I´m sure. As Randy Cornelius said, on the boxes there is written that they are from belgium. I also heard that some good rivets come from there, but I wasn´t able to find any of the manufacturers. Thx also to the others for their help. Regards, Marcel

Hello Guys, does anyone of you know the name of the company wich makes the "Jiffy Rivets" ?? I know that the company is from Belgium, but I couldn´t find the name in the internet. The reason why I´m asking is, that I ordered them from OTB and was quiet shocked how expensive the stuff was including shipping. I payed 65$ shipping to germany for a package of about 1.5 kg. From my point of view this is quiet much, because I had the same shipping fee at Tandy´s for a package wich was 5 times heavier. This is why I´m searching the name of this company, because why I should re-import the rivets to europe when they are produced here ?!? This seems a bit illogical to me. Hope someone can help me out :-) Regards, Marcel

I would be also interested in a detailed description how you do this...