SooperJake

So, if I read all the posts right, you all agree on the 120 Deg. (approx) magic number and you are drying them completely at this temp? Jake

Read this: http://artsandcrafts.about.com/od/accountingandpricing/a/priceyourcrafts.htm And This : http://yourcraftbusiness.com/Your-Craft-Business/pricing-handcrafted-work.html And then google this " how to charge for your craft work" You must approach the issue of "what to charge" just like any other company. The short answer id "KNOW THE MARKET" Find folks that do custom work like yourself. Both better, and worse quality. Find companies making the same product commercially. This is a REALLY boiled down snapshot of where to begin. If you were making space shuttles, you'd pretty much have a captive market. So, you'd get a lot more for your space shuttles without competition. That is, provided somebody was in the market for a space shuttle in the first place. See what I mean? WHERE you sell your goods is pretty important too. Is it reasonable to expect a person at a flea market to pay $5000 for a dress, or would that person most likely go to a fancy smancy store for something of that asking price? How is your product different, better, more affordable than what already exists? Why is your asking price more than that guy's asking price? You better have an answer ready for the customer that asks you that, and not a fumble stumble one either. In sales we called that the "$2 dollar story", meaning we had a reasonable answer as to why our widget was worth $2 more than the next guy's widget. Features and benefits. You're one-up on the competition, even if you have the identical widget, if you can explain the features and benefits better than he can. Ever heard of "Know thy self"? We called that "Know they shelf". Everything above is to be taken with the "pill" of understanding that I assume you intend to make a profit from your handiwork. Folks that sell their stuff "just to make a little to support their hobby" KILL the market. You should hear my teeth gritting right now. You can get TONS of free and low cost information from retired professionals in all facets of the business world here: SCORE http://www.score.org/ Time to pull the turkey out of the deep frier.... Bumbadeeda Bumbadeeda.....Happy sales, to you... Jake

Thanks for help, folks. I've been looking through a stack of my woodworking magazines...I know I had a pattern for a cutting board or something from Wood magazine, from back in the 80's, but I'll be darned if I can find that issue. I have hundred of issues of woodworking magazines and perhaps a hundred differnent books too.( My former occupation), so they all kind of run together in my memory. Kayak, you're right...I'm just going to have to sit down and create my own pattern. I suppose I can copy the basic layout of the existing holster and replace the oak leaves and acorns with keys and maple leaves. DoubleC, how big is the stamp? mcn: thanks for the pattern. I wonder how well Bobby's new book will translate over from floral to leaf? Drawing the leaves isn't the issue..I'm more handicapped on the layout/ flow part of it. Jake

Does TCD make their punch oversize? I know Shooter had his custom made through Weaver's, so the slot was wider and a smidge longer than a 1.5" belt width. 3/8" x 1.6" I think he told me. I have the Osborne. I was hoping the inside was tapered so I could grind it back to open it up, but it isn't. Jake

Something I never mentioned in my original post was how I admire the look of the lace border on your pouch/ holster. Lacing is something on my list of things to learn in the near future. Dirck, what type of stitch did you us as I can't really tell one from another just yet...and what size is the lace, please? Thanks, Jake

I figured it out. The flywheel wasn't tight enough and had been slipping.

I see a small nick in the feed dog on the outboard side, up at the rim of the slot, about dead center. I don't know if that was there before or not.

#25 needle and 277 thread, BTW.

Everything has been going along swell with the Cowboy. But, today, I've run into something new. Switching to heavier leather, from two layers of 4-5oz up to two layers of 8-9 oz , the needle stops right at the start of sewing. It does not pierce the second layer. I changed the needle and also checked the tightness of the the drive belts. Drop back to the thinner leather and it sews fine. I don't see anything in the manual except belt tension regarding a stoppage. The motor and drive belt and flywheel aren't stopping. Any ideas? Thanks, Jake UPDATE: In fact, the needle doesn't sink into the first even up to the eye.

Does anyone know of a good maple leaf pattern... something similar to the Al Stohlman holster book where he has the flapped holster with oak leaves? Thanks, Jake

tooling on the wings would be cool... Jake

I've found the best variety of real bone tools can be found through book binding suppliers. They won't just have one or two, but many shapes and styles. Here is one company for example http://www.hollanders.com Go to their bone folders section under "small tools". Interestingly, I see many of these sites have bone folders made out of teflon. I want to try one of these but one site says they are "teflon- like ptfe". Jake

Do you have a picture of it, Dwight?

Fortunately I have a wood lathe to make my own. Just made 2 mallets and an osage orange maul this week.

What does "raise above hook" mean, Kayak?

Awesome work, Josh! Jake

I've only had it for a week, but I don't think the Cowboy's controller works the same way. I can lay the side of my foot on the pedal, and "press" the air with my big toe ( barefoot) and the machine will creep. I can move the needle through its stroke in 1/4 " or so increments. Speed on the readout is 1600 rpm. Jake

If I recall correctly, the problem was the machine hit top speed right off...there was no way to tweek the speed at the pedal, is that right? So what did the fix consist of? Jake

Practicing on the new CB4500 Cowboy and in fairly tight radii, say the diameter of a quarter or so, my stitches end up either too short or too long...hit and miss. I go as slow as I can. Machine is set at about 6 SPI. Do you generally hand wheel in this type of situation, or is it simply a practiced skill? I've noted that sometimes when I hand wheel I get kinda stuck, and have to back up a smidge and really wonk the wheel good. My partially torn rotator cuff doesn't help I figure. Anyway, I've got really nice straight lines, with or without any guide lines drawn or cut. And larger radii go smoothly. I've got the foot tension perfected; no more drag marks. And the bobbin tension now seems to be about right. At first it was cutting the leather up bad. Looked awful underneath. Now it is real smooth yet feeds nicely. Jake

He needs to upgrade to a Muncie M-22 Rock Crusher tranny..paint some flames on that bad boy... Jake

You mean Illinois allows you to own firearms now? This is progress... (wink) Jake

Before I started making holsters I purchased a somewhat similar case supposedly made for the Ruger LCP. Most awkward thing I ever wore. It snagged on everything and it seemed like I was carrying a "murse". I never left the house with it, but it does store my pocket camera and accessories smartly, now. Since this looks much tighter to the gun, and thus to your belt, I'd have to wear it to know for sure. Horizontal carry is more fumble than swift, in my book. The question is "would you bet your life on it" if it is used as your your primary weapon holster? If this is a backup weapon, I'd say that is a different story. Jake

I'd starve if I relied on hand stitching my stuff "for a living". Fortunately, I don't currently make things to sell, such that I would starve if I did. I do like the look of the hand stitching over machine work. Everything has its tradeoffs, I guess. I'm sure some of the lifelong hand stitchers, though, are pretty darn fast at what they due. This is an enviable skill for sure. Jake

I was just looking at the doubles from Springfield, George. The imports. So you have had good luck with them? No weird coatings on the flesh side like Tandy? Decent scar-free sections etc? Thanks, Jake

Looks better than my first try. You will find there are better leathers out there than what Tandy sells, and often for less per Sq. Ft. Hermann Oak ( available through vendors that support this website, and directly from HO, and W&C ( so I hear but still await my first order, week 7, I think) are much better for tooling and forming. I have also noticed that when I dye the holster, it ends up stiffer than an non-dyed one. Not sure why that is. Perhaps one of the experts will chime in. Jake