SooperJake

I've seen pictures of several stitching horses that have the jaws angled, typically to the left of the user. Is there any special purpose for this? The reasoning I could come up with has to do with keeping a more obtuse angle on the leather tension strap on a horse, and for a pony, more light in to see the stitching groove. What is the reason for the angling? The gentleman this Hermes video showing hand stitching has the jaws of his very long stitching pony laying severely over,as if in his lap. And the jaws look to be held shut with leg pressure. He never looks at the back of his work so how in the world would he be certain the awl has passed into the back groove correctly? Is there a stitching groove on both sides do you think? Is a stitching groove absolutely necessary? Thanks, Jake

Very nice work, JR. Does the retention adjustor apply that much extra pressure over a straight fit? Or, is the idea to make the draw a little loose when wet molding, and then snug up on the trigger guard? I have no experience with a leather rig + retention screw is why I ask. Jake

I heard many years ago that Sno-Seal degraded stitching over time. I heeded the warning so can't confirm or deny it. It does contain mineral spirits.

Thanks all, for the ideas. Jake

I just found your post and wanted to say thank you. I have no idea how to make these letters but I really like the style. I need to try my hand at some carving/stamping. Jake

http://hightemperaturefabric.com/ What about cutting up a welding glove for a liner? Jake

The rubber surface I meant is a very thin material that would substitute for rubber cement. So, you are saying you use rubber cement and bond the leather directly to the granite, after it has been properly cased. TO? I really appreciate your indepth answers, and everyone's answers here. Experience beats the stuffing out of any book! Jake

Seiwa of Japan makes a pink or two http://www.goodsjapan.jp/category/page=2/catId=4053915 Or stop at your local Wally world and check Rit, the clothing dye. It works on wood veneer.

Would it also be true,then, that casing for tooling is done only from the grain side, because you want to glue the leather down to cardboard to keep it from stretching? These damn books need to be rewritten. On one page they say to wet the leather from both sides, and two pages later they tell you to glue the leather down and wet from the grain side, which I have to assume can make the cardboard soggy? Has anyone tried tooling on a rubberized surface vs. glueing the leather down? Something like drawer lining or rubberized router mat material comes to mind. Not the original threads purpose, I know, but it is all about casing and my confusion. Jake

This leather lines kydex holster looks pretty nice..Loctite 300...but there is no detail about how it is holding up. http://www.kydexforum.com/thread-857.html

Heh..I misread matching and read it as Machine...lol Jake

Any idea what it is, JW? Jake

The coating I saw and am referencing is a kind of grey almost rubbery looking or maybe like latex paint. There was still a slight nap on the flesh side, and I figured the coating was meant to hide some of this. I didn'y buy one, despite finding a very nice looking piece, because I was unsure of how it would wet mold, and the answer I got at the store was not reassuring enough. Can gum tragacanth be grey? and, will a thinner lining stick to the back with contact cement, or does the trag need to be removed? Thanks, Jake

I was at Tandy the other day and looked at their 8-9oz Premium Double Shoulders. There is a coating on the back of them and the folks working their really couldn't elaberate on what it was, or how it effected working with it. Does anyone have any recent experience with these hides and can you shed some light on this subject? How does it wet mold, for instance? Thanks, Jake

No pun intended but I go the impression that casing for wet molding a holster was much less wet than for tooling. Perhaps I haven't waited long enough after wetting after all, or not enough moisture. I typically dunked it in lightly soaped water for 5 to 10 seconds then let the leather return to a natural color. I will re-read Bob's artickle too. Time to experiment....hop hop hop... Thanks Jake

Share a little about your casing procedure if you would... and thanks! Jake That should get you headed in the right direction, but remember to experiment on some scrap to get your oven temp/time right. ETA : If you're not using a vacuum sealer, you can do the whole boning bit inside of a regular (ziploc) bag....just be sure you properly case the leather. Mike

watched again...I definitely have been dragging the tools more than Eric does in his video. Maybe that's it. Press more drag less. Leather still has to be part of the problem.

Okay, I'm happy with placing the stitch line, and my hand sewing is progressing nicely. What baffles me now is wet molding. Specifically burnish marks. I get great retention, the gun is well centered, and so on. But, one swipe with a boning tool or highly polished antler tine and my leather darkens and shines like polish. I figure it is a casing issue? Quality of the leather? This is raw leather with no dye. Too wet, too dry, didn't wait long enough after wetting, waited too long, not enough soap in the water, didn't hold my tongue right, did it on a Sunday instead of a Thursday? What the hell is the trick? I've watched Eric's video half a dozen times. I watched Bianchi's a couple times. Read and reread about casing. HELP! Jake

Do you happen to have a picture of the back of these, Dave? Jake

For visual consistency I'd tighten up the middle section, and a little bit along the barrel. Retention is most paramount, followed by aesthetics. At least that's what I have learned from this forum and elsewhere. I've been studying lots of websites for just this sort of thing. You can find website links on people's posts here in the holster section of the forum. Jake

Has anyone tried lining the kydex to protect the finish? A 2 oz leather would work wouldn't it? Jake