Rawhide

@Sam you have so much going on...I don't know how you missed it either. It was at Elktrack studios too! What a great place. @Paul, thanks for the complements! (used that knife that you may recognize in the picture!) @LederRudi, learned that from the Great George Hurst! He's one of the best.

Here's a leather plate I made from a class I took over the weekend.

hey hey!!! look at what the cat dragged in! How's it going Beav? Good to see you still hanging in there!

From my handstitching experience, it took me a long time to find out that it was (for me anyway) the thread I was using. I was using some run of the mill type thread and it was fine until you pulled it tight. It would go from white, to grey! I have since switched to Barbour's Linen cord. I use 5 cord and 3 cord for most projects. When they pull tight, they stay white. Just my two cents.

I think you're cooked. I don't think that you can remove it.

If I recall correctly, Verlane shared some tip sheets long ago and I think one of them had a pattern for u.s. calvary saddle bags. Do they have three straps on the flap?

@westtxcowboy1979 I think you may be right. I have only see the burgundy and black, prior to this. Thanks.

Please do not adjust your computer screen...there is nothing wrong! the background dye did bleed. I think I know why, but I will have to try some things to verify. I appreciate all the wonderful comments. Thanks everyone!

Here's my version on the saddle bag purse in the LCSJ. I love my edges!

Here's a picture

doesn't seem to burnish. But tools well.

I have some of Ron's and I still like the Gomph 100 times better. I can't compare the dixon's because I've never use one.

Could be, but I don't think so. I've seen some oil tanned and that seems more rustic looking. The leather I have looks exactly like veg tan.

I purchased a piece of leather from the Wichita Falls Boot and Saddle Maker's Show. It looks, feels, smells and tools like veg tan leather, but it does NOT absorb water! I can tool it without water or any moisture aid. What kind of leather is this? Thanks, Marlon

The old Gomph bevelers are the best, but you have to find them, since they aren't made anymore, but for the best price to performance, I'd have to go with Barry King's edge bevelers.

I use rubber cement to glue the leather to old x-ray film, or cresent illustration board.(depends on what I'm tooling), but after I'm done tooling, I remove the substrate and use a piece of crepe rubber to remove the excess tack left by the rubber cement. works like a charm. try the crepe rubber (found at hobby lobby or michael's, etc...) to try and remove the tack from your current projects, and see if it works.

I use neither flesh or grain side. I use the method Sylvia mentioned. You can use the leather, but I would be sure it's really thin. I use manilla folders and rub a green micro polish into it. The reason for the oil is that the jeweler's rouge that Tandy has is as hard as a brick, the oil breaks it down and makes it easier to apply to the leather. The green compound I use is already waxy and easy to rub into anything. I even use it on my cardboard sharpening wheels.

"the journal" is short for Leather Crafter's and Saddler's Journal. The pattern is in the latest issue.

Clay, I was sure nice to see you. Your description of Jim's place is spot on. He seemed to have thought of everything. Even the storage closet to keep the leather out of the light was brilliant. I sure hope to make it to some of Jim's classes. And as always, George was quite the entertainer! He's got more stories than a skyscraper!

I would use a leather cement to glue the pocket in place on the bag. Just imagine that the gusset will be stitched the same as if it were lined up with an edge, except that it will be placed in the center of the bag. I would use the gusset to layout the holes, since this will be the exterior of the bag. I would finish the edge of the pocket, before gluing it to the bag, then sew it on.

Seth, Do you have any pictures of what you have? It may be just as simple as stitching it to the front of the bag, before you assemble the main parts of the bag. But pictures would give us some more insight. Marlon

I've never had any issues with it forming. I usually glue up to about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the edge. I sew closer than that but that's the distance I use.

I Like dirtclod, I too use binder clips. I glue with leather weld about 4 to 5 inches at a time. I let it dry under clamp, then move to another 4 to 5 inch section. It's easy enough to do it this way without too much trouble. Marlon

Very good, I will be aquiring some steel wool soon! Thanks guys and gals.