Rawhide

sure, Al Stohlman carved with sharpend nails..., however, I don't think there is any tool better for the job than the swivel knife, but it's the hardest tool for a leathercrafter to master.

I'm going to take a little different spin on books to get. After you've figured out what type of leatherwork you plan on attempting, my suggestion would be to get these two books first. The Leatherwork Manual, and Leathercraft Tools. The Leatherwork Manual is a general book on tooling and a good all around starting book to get an understanding of what (and how) to do leatherwork. The second book, is probably one that should be bronzed...the Leathercraft Tools book explains the purpose of tools, how those tools are used, and most importantly, how to maintain them. I also agree with Bob (hidepounder) on the books for the different areas of leather crafting. These books are a tremendous source of information. I also recommend finding some old Leather Crafters and Saddler's Journal magazines to thumb through. This will give you some ideas on what type of leathercraft you prefer to take a stab at. Marlon

That's not a pricking iron, that tool is intended to punch all the way through. It is called a diamond hole punch. A pricking iron makes diagonal marks on leather so that the maker can align a regular diamond awl (which doesn't make large holes by the way). This is a pricking iron in use...

This is part of a page from a book I bought authored by Valarie Michael, entitled, The Leatherworking Handbook, A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of techniques and projects It's a very good book and explains the use of lots of tools.

They are intended to just mark the leather, not punch all the way through. I have heard of some using it in that fashion though.

If you use Gorilla glue, be sure to clamp it until it dries. Gorilla glue expands as it drys.

The part of the hide shouldn't dictate how it carves, it's the tanning process. Sounds like you just got a piece that wasn't tanned completely or correctly. The different sections of the hide are better for different types of projects though. i.e. backs for belts, bellys for molded projects etc... I've used dbl shoulders quite often and I think the live oak is much better tanned than crafstman oak. However, I'd try some hermann oak, wicket and craig or thoroughbred leather for you next prized piece. It's a little more expensive, but you won't spend all your time trying to make it work.

It's sure one for the china cabinet. I feel privileged and blessed to be the one to own it!

Our guild had it's annual Christmas party this weekend. We had some of the nicest gift exchanges I've seen in a while. Not all were handmade, but most were. We also had several door prizes. And of those I happened to win the very last drawing which was this notebook, made by the one and only George Hurst. How lucky was that?

Yes it could be. Try mixing some lexol with your casing water and case with that. I would try a pretty big proportion too, like 50:50. See if that helps.

try putting pads of soft material under the feet of the table to dampen the sound the table gives to the floor. you can probably start with those felt furniture mover things and top that off with a folded towel under each leg. seems as though you've dampened the block well, but not the table to the floor. Good luck

I would never use an awl like that, simply because, your point of reference could yield a different angle of viewing each time and that will cause your awl to enter at an angle to the leather, but looks straight to you. The best method for using an awl is the tried and true stitching horse or pony. this way the point of view is right over the top of the edge and you can see the straightness of your stabbings. Also place a guide line on the other side where you didn't use a groove. This will help when piercing the leather to get the alignment right. At first this process will go slow, but practice will improve speed dramatically.

I don't know. It's an html document, so it should be easily seen. Here's the path to it though... Go to the main page of leatherworker.net, click on MORE TIPS AND TRICKS HERE, then about 2/3 down the page, there's a link that says HOW TO USE A HEAD KNIFE. If that doesn't work, it could be your computer, try another one if you have access to one.

Try this Ray, Use old CD packages. The ones where blank CDs/DVDs come packaged on a spindle stacked on top of each other. The size that fits 50 discs are usually good enough, but you can use the 100's if you need more storage. they have twist lock slots to keep the base and top together. Screw the base (part with the spindle, which you can trim off) to the bottom of the workbench and then twist to lock or unlock the top (you'll basically be mounting it upside down). They are plastic so there's no breaking.

google "farm woodwork" and look for the google book result. page 98

Gary, I'd be interested in knowing what old tools you have to sell. I've got a pretty good collection of gomph overstitch wheels (#5 thru #12). But I'd still like to see what you have. Thx.

I think Al Stohlman had the best instructions of using a maintaining (sharpening) of a head knife. I would seriously consider purchasing his Leathercraft Tools book, but in the meantime, here is his instructions of how to use one. The link is from the main page Tips and Tricks I think. How to use a head knife

Hi, I've used one a few times just practicing, but nothing for a project. I've seen Barry King use one and he cut the border line with a swivel knife, then place the push beveler into the cut and pushed it along the cut. He was working a rectangular piece, so I can't comment on corners. I think it was designed to be the fastest way to bevel. I think you'll benefit from it if most of what you do is strap work. I doesn't bevel anywhere near what a traditional beveler and maul/mallet would accomplish, but it bevels none the less.

I have a Marlin head knife and I like it very much. I think his blades are a little too thick, but that's an easy enough fix for me to knock the shoulders down. I haven't tried his skiving knife though so I can't comment there. I also have a W. Rose knife that I use the most, but my Marlin knife is right behind that one. I use them both for skiving. Hope this helps.

Unless you have a Bob Douglas awl... Ask my finger how it knows! Went right through the nail to the nail bed one time! Talk about pain! Bob's are sharp right from the get-go.

Personally I use an awl for all hand sewing, but if you like the use of the round hole punches, here's a trick for you. when you mark your hole locations, align the edge of the punch to the mark, instead of trying to center it on the mark. Once you cover it up, you can't see it and you'll never get perfectly aligned holes.

Not a dumb question at all. General tooling/carving gives small relief to the images you intend to display. Embossing expands on this by stretching the leather forward to physically project from the background. Usually the cavity that this produces is filled with a putty or a plug of leather, to aid in strengthening the piece and helps give more definition. I hope this answers your question.

Well, I'm only 34, but I love to surround myself with people 45 and older...they seem to have a lot more sense than the younger ones...I wonder what causes that?

I've switched to the Weldwood as well. I use the liquid, but I place it in a used plastic water bottle with a 1/16" hole in the top and use a small sheep skin clipping to cover the hole. It's shelf life is much longer than the barge in a plasic container, and I think it holds extremely well. I just squeeze out what I need and spread it around with a hotel card key. Works great!

My two cents is that no punch comes ready to use when new. I've only seen ready to use from the custom makers and those who refurbish. I'm willing to bet it needs to be sharpened and polished (especially if it's an Osborne or Al Stohlman Brand). They come with a bevel, but not near sharp enough for leatherworking. Marlon