Rawhide

i would like them as well please send to my email. thanks, marlon

Thanks for the kind words Bill. I still believe I have quite a long way to go though. My ultimate goal is to be with the likes of George Hurst, Jim Linnell, Peter Main, Bob Park, and Jim Jackson. One day Bill, one day.....

I've done that before, but I wanted the really hard contrast. I know what I did that caused the bleeding...I forgot a step before dying. My edges are a variation of Bob parks method and quite a process. In a nut shell, I edge them, sand them with 400-600 grit sand paper. Dye the edge with a burnt wool dauber, then moisten the edge, rub the edge with glycerine soap, and burnish with cordura or canvas. buff with white t-shirt, and the seal them with 2 parts leather balm with atom wax, 1 part resolene.

George Hurst had some at a recent class, and I've seen them. they look good, but if i'm going to pay $30 for a tool, i'm calling Barry King. JMHO.

Think I found the answer to the special vs. jet black question. The special is described as deeper penetrating. Kind of like Feibings oil dye. From the Angelus website: PRO SERIES LEATHER DYE NO. 505 & SPECIAL DYE BLACK NO. 507 505 and 507 are similar to Angelus Leather Dye Series 500. 505 and 507 have additional ingredients that allow the dye to penetrate hard and/or difficult leathers. Normally for professional use only.

Thanks Pete, That oval flower center is one from the old hidecrafters line up. I beleive that double k leather now owns the dies and tools from hidecrafters. I think the number is PJ018. I'm not sure if it is still carried anymore, but you may be able to find it somewhere. @ BobBlea, thanks Bob. I may get around to it this weekend. I've been pretty busy for the last 3 years (not a typo). So leather has taken a back seat, but I'm trying to get into a regimen that will allow some articles to come about.

Tina, It's really not that hard...If I can get some time. I'll do a quick tutorial on running that basket weave around a curve like that. Sam, I don't. Jim was out following elk tracks when we took this class, and I think he and George were going to set up more classes when Jim got back. He was due back yesterday (I think), so stay tuned. If I get any info, I'll send it to you.

bump this post, I'd like to know the difference too!

@OdinUK, I saw Paul at the Wichita Falls Boot and Saddle Maker's show, earlier in October. @Horrrk, Yes, this was a one day tooling. (4-5 hours). The swivel knife is made by Paul Zalesak of www.leatherwranglers.com the blade is not much thinner than a tandy blade, but the material of it was very well researched and stays sharp probably 5 times longer than an average blade. Really helps to prevent you from having to strop so much. (As you can tell, I love this knife.) Not affiliated with Paul, but I do know him and he makes great tools. @ferg, the background is done that way on purpose, but there are some errors that could be corrected (some strikes are harder/lighter than others). It is done with a bargrounder that shows as small holes that are directional. (you probably know this, but for the uninitiated....) the traditional backgrounder will mat and if done properly, will blend the background as you prefer. Thanks to all the great comments. Marlon.

It's been my experience that neatsfoot oil should be applied very lightly, in multiple applications. It usually takes me a couple of days to oil an article. I use clipped sheeps wool to apply it. It will soak in (usually overnight). and if applied correctly, will seem as though none was applied (this may be what you're experiencing), aside from a very slight darkening.

@Sam you have so much going on...I don't know how you missed it either. It was at Elktrack studios too! What a great place. @Paul, thanks for the complements! (used that knife that you may recognize in the picture!) @LederRudi, learned that from the Great George Hurst! He's one of the best.

Here's a leather plate I made from a class I took over the weekend.

hey hey!!! look at what the cat dragged in! How's it going Beav? Good to see you still hanging in there!

From my handstitching experience, it took me a long time to find out that it was (for me anyway) the thread I was using. I was using some run of the mill type thread and it was fine until you pulled it tight. It would go from white, to grey! I have since switched to Barbour's Linen cord. I use 5 cord and 3 cord for most projects. When they pull tight, they stay white. Just my two cents.

I think you're cooked. I don't think that you can remove it.

If I recall correctly, Verlane shared some tip sheets long ago and I think one of them had a pattern for u.s. calvary saddle bags. Do they have three straps on the flap?

@westtxcowboy1979 I think you may be right. I have only see the burgundy and black, prior to this. Thanks.

Please do not adjust your computer screen...there is nothing wrong! the background dye did bleed. I think I know why, but I will have to try some things to verify. I appreciate all the wonderful comments. Thanks everyone!

Here's my version on the saddle bag purse in the LCSJ. I love my edges!

Here's a picture