Rawhide

That's some nice work...Boy I wish I could braid...*sigh*

These were some responses to questions posed to Peter... ....the first I heard of using lemon juice was from Bob Beard back in the 80's...I tried it (with a real lemon)...and, it worked well. For those who wonder about this... At times, black metal marks can appear on veg tan leather from a number of sources...tools, or fine loose metal particles that may be in the workspace. It is the citric acid in lemons that will make these marks magically go away. I only use oxalic acid (it does the same job as a lemon will do),...a teaspoon dissolved in a pint of water is all that is needed. I have had the same (glass) bottle for over three years, and there is still plenty left. Your leather must be completely dry before adding oxalic acid or lemon juice. It is best to (quickly) apply it 'very lightly' overall with a dampened (not wet) sponge...then concentrate more where there are darker marks. Allow this to dry, which won't take long, and then again quickly wipe the leather overall with a dampened sponge (not wet) of plain water. The only time I use oxalic acid is when I see marks on leather. I do not use tape on the back of my leather. All of my work is mounted on 'illustration board'...this is available from art/craft stores...the most commonly available is 'crescent brand'. Make sure it is 'super-smooth, No.202'. Mounting leather on this board will prevent stretch which will come from using large face tools such as the shader and basketweave etc. Apply a thick, but 'even' coat of rubber cement (not contact adhesive) to the board (use a credit card as a spreader...I have many of the plastic 'gift-cards' that seem to be everywhere)...allow to dry a little, then lay your 'dry' leather down (wet leather will not stick at this point)....rub hard with your hand for good adhesion. Apply water with a 'loaded' sponge...apply in 'even' strokes in several directions to ensure 'even' coverage of moisture. Do this several times and you will find the water is not going into the leather as quickly as it did at first...this means it can take no more. Lay the leather aside....allow it to lose its wet look, and when you think it is ready to carve....don't!. Instead, cover it with a piece of plate glass (I use a large glass cutting board...from the kitchen...I think Bed/Bath&beyond carry these). Allow to sit covered overnight...this is proper 'casing' (just adding water to leather is 'not casing')....the evening out of moisture throughout the leather. The reason I do not use a plastic bag is that the illustration board becomes damp. With glass, the air can come in from the sides...in saying that, you should always add extra moisture around the edges....leather will always dry from the edges inwards. When working, and you need a break....cover your work with the glass....it will hold moisture for days if required. Again, always add moisture to edges only when having a break...this will hold the moisture in the center, which is where you want it. When using illustration board, you will find you are able to get extra depth in your work....especially if you are using lighter-weights. Peter

If you don't need the best, Hidecrafters has one with interchangeable wheels, It has a 5, 6, 7, & 8 and is better quality than the tandy ones... I could post a picture of one if you care to see it.

Gomphs are the best...but you'll have to get them on ebay or from someone who has 'em like Bob Douglas. The old Osbornes are good as well. What spacings are you looking for?

I use Gomph overstitch wheels... but for me, each mark represents a hole, so i'm either using an awl in the mark, or lacing nippers in the mark, when I'm done, there are no marks left. I'm not quite sure how to picture what you describe...Do you have any visual examples?

Jack, For me it was, because I had a problem with high speed grinders, taking too much off, and overheating the metal. I can do manual sharpening, but it does take a while... I sharpened a spindle gouge just yesterday with it..., took me all of 30 seconds. I didn't even turn the lathe off, I just walked to it, hit the edge, honed it on the strop and was back to cutting. Worth every penny to me. Now If I can get a jig for a head knife... I'll be set. (Although I did sharpen my head knife on it without a jig.)

I have the small one (T3) and I think it's fantastic. I use it for everything... I haven't bought any of the jigs yet, cause they are expensive too, but man I can get a quick sharpen with no chance of overheating the temper. I love mine.

I could only wish... that's a J Cook knife and I borrowed the pic from his website, disclaimer "FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY". Not affiliated, just the first to come up in google.

There is a fundamental difference when using a diamond awl. When you pierce the leather with the diamond awl, it uses two of the cutting edges to cut the leather and the other two to spread the leather apart. Then with the diamond hole that's left, one side of the thread will go up into one of the corners of the diamond and the other thread will go into the other corner. If this is done consistently the same way, you will yield perfect stitches. Some people like round holes, but I've had them fail on me with a dog's harness I made. As far as the knife, I would suggest a head knife with highly tapered "wings"...i.e. a pattern knife, see below.. this will cut well and get into the corners well. It's probably not the best for skiving though.

Answers in Red ...it has been remiss of me to neglect my website for so long....there is much to add. I intend to add 'boots', 'belts' and 'miscellaneous' when time permits. ...and, the toaster is in front of my drawing board (out of sight in the photo). The bread-bin, plate, butter-dish with butter-knife and vegemite are to the right. PGM

Yeah....And it could cost a lot of money too!!!

...thought some may find this interesting. While cleaning old files, I found this scan of a photo of my studio in Australia. I had a small farm in Bringelly on which there was a 36 x 36' barn which included six 12' x12' stables. I opened two stables and built this studio...putting in a floor, ceiling and lining the wall with ship-lapped pine. I put windows behind the top section of the stable doors and one in front of my workspace. I lined the outer walls with second-hand weathered timbers, including the door...from the outside it just looked like and old barn. Many people were shocked when seeing the inside for the first time. This barn was far from square, and, my ability to set the floor perfectly level, left a little to be desired. I started building my work tops and workbench in one corner...set a mark on the wall, and built out from with the use of a spirit level. All worked out well, and all benches were perfectly level. Some years later I opened the adjoining stable and added another space for a photo studio and darkroom. When I relocated this space in 1997, I had problems, for the 24 x 24 building was already perfectly level and square. I again had to start in one corner with a spirit level, and adjust leg heights and bench shapes to fit. Just a story... Peter

Tina. Right now I use fiebings dye reducer. It works well with other spirit dyes I've used.

I just can't do it...Nothing pains me like seeing/using round holes for sewing. I'm sure there are applications, but nothing looks as nice as using an awl in my opinion.

Is the reducer not the same as any other solvent reducer? I didn't get their brand...I do have another brand of reducer though...Do you use the neutral dye or the actual reducer?

Ok, You guys just made me spend some more money...I ordered about 6 or 7, 3oz bottles of dye from turtlefeathers... Tina, you did it again, I give up.

First thing, the second photo in the tutorial you posted shows the angle of the blade incorrectly...The flat of the blade, should be parallel with the edge of the project. Also, I don't create the knot inside of each hole until the last stitch. I think this is a useless step in each hole, because the next stitch will lock the previous stitch in place and it won't unravel even if the cord breaks. Otherwise these are fairly good instructions.

They key is absolute consistency. You have to do the exact same thing the exact same way each and every time, or the result will be different.. for instance if you stab a hole and put the left needle in first and the right needle behind the thread in the hole, then you have to do it that way throughout. My suggestion would be to start with Al Stohlman's, The Art of Handsewing Leather...Hands down the best instruction out there.

...just found this photo well hidden amongst many old files. And yes, this really did fall off the back of a truck, in 2003, after making it from San Francisco to Japan and finally to Australia where it was lost... I have not seen it since. I made this over a constructed pyramid made from heavy card...it is covered with goatskin in many parts. There are also many plugs beneath (flowers, small squares etc). The base also is heavy card covered with cowhide, with goatskin edges and corners. The 'bird of paradise' flower is made from very fine kangaroo with the stem being light timber dowel. It is all colored with spirit dyes, part brush and part airbrush. From memory this piece stood (and probably still stands...somewhere) about 36" high. Peter

Coming soon to a topic near you!!!

That's the way I took it..., I just replied that way for those who don't know him and also wonder why he doesn't post much... No offense taken at all...We're all friends here, right??

Peter sneaks in every so often and posts, but he posts on another list that I'm on as well and it's email based, so it's easier for him to post to multiple lists that way. I asked if he'd like for me to post his work here for him, and I do it out of courtesy... It's not that he's too good for us or anything like that. If you want to know something, just email him. He's very responsive and is usually glad to answer questions. He gets a ton of emails, so if you don't get an answer try again. He's usually fairly quick about replying. You can find his email on his website. Peter's website. He's really a great guy, so don't think that he's snubbing us. Marlon

You're welcome!

I've found some at Hobby Lobby as well.

Razz, Peter says: It took in excess of a day (meaning 24 hours) to complete...(if you speak of the light colored belt with many flowers). Peter