Rawhide

...here are some new inlays for boot tops that will appear in a chocolate calf background. The original photo is shown at left and the uncolored carving at right. The colors were altered by request...the foliage was not required so the subjects were more featured. These were colored with spirit dyes. Peter

I asked Peter Main this question a while back and he said that he heats them up with a mini torch til cherry red (in a vise of course), and then wire brushes the chrome off, then cool in water. He also said that he doesn't trust the newer craftools to do this with, cause he doesn't know what they are made with.

That's funny! The newer Craft Japan tools I have from Hidecrafter's are of much better quality than the current line of Craftools. Hopefully the quality will increase, but thank God for the custom makers...Maybe more expensive, but if you gotta replace tools several times the more expensive tools are worth it. It's not just that the tool bends, or breaks but the time lost going back to the store to get another, or even worse having to wait for shipping.

It's the tools. They are definitley lower quality than those from the days of old. I've done it on a pear shader with a 16 oz maul.

Jim, Glad that helps you out. Since you're a lefty, you should be able to reverse the instructions, except still stitch toward yourself. Bob's awls are the best...also, the versa groover, while expensive, is the perfect tool for the job... it excels where all others fail, HANDS DOWN.

Kevin, I saw George last night at the guild meeting and he was happy to know you asked about him... As far as the recent health issues...He mentioned that he had to spend 3 days in the hospital after a fall outside his home where he hit his head...Fortunately, everything looks ok. He's still in a little pain, but otherwise, he's fine. And may I mention a faboulous 76 years old.

Hi Jim, Here's how I do it. I am right handed, so I hold the awl in my right hand with the right hand needle in between the index and middle finger (kind of like a cigarette). and the left hand needle the same way. I pierce the hole from right to left, with the front of the project facing the right hand. Insert the left hand needle, reach over the project with the left hand and pull the needle through about 5-6 inches and pull the thread into the upper corner of the diamond shaped hole. Then insert the right hand needle behind the thread in the hole. Switch the left hand needle to the right hand and use your left hand to pull the right hand needle through. Pull the stitch up tight, and repeat with the next hole. I stitch toward me. I hope this helps. If not, let me know and I'll try to take some pictures.

Kevin, I sure will tell him. I hope to see him tomorrow at the guild meeting .

Hidecrafter's used to carry it, but they don't anymore.

Chuck Smith's website isn't functioning...you'll have to call or email them and they can email you a catalog. Chuck Smith Tools PO Box 2647 Valley Center, CA 92082 Phone: 760-749-5755 Fax: 760-749-5355 E-Mail: olsmoothie@sbcglobal.com

Thanks for the welcome Damon. I look forward to meeting you. (Not sure what I can teach, but I'll show you everything that I know ) I plan on being at the guild meeting Tuesday night.

I tell ya, I do feel blessed. I'm sure going to do my part...That's partly why I joined the LW, to learn and pass on. I just hope that one day, I can be half as talented as these guys.

I teach a lacing class once a month at the local Tandy and it's right across the street from Hidecrafter's in Ft. Worth. I figured I'd go in today and see what's new. They had just finshed their Saturday class and George was there. We talked for a minute and he and Jo Spencer invited me to lunch at the nearby diner. I have to say that lunch with George and Jo proved to be the greatest outing. I learned that George once played football for Joe Paterno at Penn State. He lived in New York and worked for Tandy for 35 years. He's a great guy, and I'm going to try and learn as much as I can from him. I feel very fortunate to be around here. Anyway, I just had to share. Keep poundin'!!!

This is really a tool-centric question. The answer will depend on the maker of the tool... A Barry King #3 edger will be different than a Ron's #3 edger, plus the style of edger makes a play. The Bissonette style doesn't remove quite as much material as the grooved edger, but there's less chance of a gouge using the bissonettes.

i have one of Bob's hafts as well as a slim blade awl...The awl is probably the best ever...The hafts are good, but you can get one just as good from Barry King for almost half the price. Bob's hafts are 65.00 and Barry's are 35.00.

Come one, come all...let me know your thoughts for making a sheath for this knife.

from Peter

Wickett and Craig You can also try Hidecrafter's. They usually have some decent leather.

AMEN!!!

Thanks Bruce... Your answer does bring up another question for me though... I've tried to mix dye and nf oil and the dye tends to separate from the oil (kind of like oil and water). Could you elaborate on how you do this, and the roundabout ratio of dye to oil mixture? Thanks...."drooling"!!!

Tina...got an answer from Peter on Monday...(sorry for the delay in posting). ...many years ago, a regular writer for the old 'Craftsman' magazine mentioned many times, the term 'hidden stitch'. This so-called hidden stitch was nothing but 'glue'...it always amused me. So, with that said...I have to say that I too have used this 'hidden stitch'. All parts of this belts are 'glued' together. When a good contact adhesive is used and applied properly, it is extremely strong...think of the soles of shoes that are only 'glued' together....they do not come apart. Jack's belt will not be used (other than for a photo or two)...it is more of a keep-sake. When making full size belts in this style, of course I sew them in part. The attached belt has the sewing concealed...you will see only a fine line instead of exposed stitches. Peter

Bruce, What is the finish on this piece? Is it just oiled, or highligher and/or antique? What's the topcoat?

They will split it down to what ever weight you want for no charge.

Tom, the compressor mentioned from northern tool is the one I have and it's a hundred times quieter than the pancake compressor from home depot (i have that one too)...plus the compressor comes with a regulator and a water separator (two very important items in regards to an airbrush). you won't be disappointed. Also about the diaphram type compressors, they pulsate and tend to 'spit' the dye out...'tis better to have a small tank that can hold a small supply of air that can give smoother finishes. M.

Tina, I sent your question to Peter and still waiting for his reply. He checks in on the site from time to time, but I think he's fairly busy at the moment, trying to catch up on projects. When I get a reply...I'll post it. Marlon