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Everything posted by Rawhide
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Thanks Indy. No matter how long I look at a piece. I always seem to forget something. I still have the piece cased so it's no sweat to add the rest. Marlon
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Peter Main boot tops and belt
Rawhide replied to ClayB's topic in Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins
Clay, I emailed Peter for those boots and he sent the picture to me. He says... "..here is the photo of the LSU boots...I can only take credit for the tigers," Regards, Peter Marlon -
I've been wanting to carve a notebook cover, so I used Chan Geer's packet on How to Draw Sheridan Patterns for my design idea and went to work. The pattern has been drawn for a while, just never put to leather. Enjoy. By the way, I'm thinking of oiling it, putting on some RTC, then antiquing it. (Sort of the Sheridan Way) Tell me what you think!! Marlon
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Peter Main boot tops and belt
Rawhide replied to ClayB's topic in Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins
Ian, Plugs are scalloped under-layer(s) of leather that serve as a filler piece for applique embossed pieces. the plug is cut slightly smaller than the final size of the actual carved piece, and is scalloped to give the overall definition of the piece. Then a thin layer of leather is carved normally and is then molded on top of this plug and glued to it. this is how he gets the 3d effect on most of his work. Marlon -
Well since I like to work nude, it might not be a good idea for me. (just kidding). I would probably forget to turn it off though and I may curse myself out loud or something embarrassing. This might be a great idea for classes as well. As far as cameras go, I think technology has come far enough that you almost can't buy a bad one. For the host, I think as long as you have High speed, your provider may host it for you. And considerations....Don't walk around naked. Marlon
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Clay that's an excellent tutorial. Thanks for the effort. I can see why folks were confused, that thing looks real man! Marlon
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Peter Main boot tops and belt
Rawhide replied to ClayB's topic in Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins
Absolutely stunning. Peter you never cease to amaze. Clay, you should ask him to send you pictures of the LSU boots he did so you can post them. Marlon -
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I bought an awl from Peter Main, and it's blade is much smaller than the awl blades that you get from tandy or osborne. This awl has to be sharp, really sharp, and it will glide through two layers of 7/8 oz leather easy. The diamond is the best way to go, I think it makes the stitch line look distinctive and perferct. Round holes are fine, but don't make the stitches lay correctly without some manipulation. I'll try to remember to post some pictures of my awls tonight or tomorrow so you get an idea of the size differences. Here's a picture of drilled holes with the tinyest drill bit and the holes are still to large, but this was multiple layers (I think 3) of 13/15 oz leather.
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What tools should I get to start off with?
Rawhide replied to AndersHeintz's topic in Getting Started
Hilly, Did you buy a good one or a cheap one? There's a vast difference. Also, you must sharpen the tubes. I sharpen everything I buy simply because it isn't sharp enough. I even sharpen my scalpel blades. (O.C.D.?-mmm, Maybe) The reason for the rotary punch is to punch the holes in the field. He said that he was a working cowboy, so I figured a rotary would fit the bill a little better. I actually don't own a rotary, because I also prefer the single punches. (Which I sharpen the heck out of). Marlon -
What tools should I get to start off with?
Rawhide replied to AndersHeintz's topic in Getting Started
Welcome to the forum. My suggestion would be to cater your purchase to what you're going to make. Since you're making collars, you'll probably need a strap cutter (if you're making just a couple, you can get by with a razor knife). Probably a rotary punch for your holes. Stitching awl, thread and maybe rivets and rivet setter. That's a start, I'm sure you'll get some chimes on this from more experience makers. I haven't made any collars. Good luck. Marlon -
Noticed he hasn't been back to reply either, plus it was his first post. It's not likely for a person to register and post a bash like that without some provoking such as: What do you all think about Artisan...and so forth. Me thinks it's just a hit and run. I have a small Artisan and I love it (I think my wife likes it more than me). I can't say enough about their customer service either. If it isn't right, they'll make it right. Thanks Artisan. Marlon
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I understand. If you've already got the credit there you might as well use it. I actually bought Barry's maul without testing it. But have been using it ever since. I thought it would be too weird to use vs. a mallet. But I was instantly hooked. I've been using a maul for the last 8 months or so and don't see myself going back to a mallet. I think you'll enjoy a maul. Good luck with your tool. Marlon
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rubber cement the liner in place (only around the edges should be good enough, Punch all the holes, then peel them apart, now they will line up perfectly when you're ready. Marlon
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Do you lean your elbow on the table when you stamp? If so, you may want a tapered head maul. And If you're paying $60 for that maul, I would suggest Barry Kings Maul. I think the balance is much better than the Al Stohlman brand. (I have the ALS brand mallet that I don't use very much). Marlon
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If you're stitching and not lacing, I would just use leatherweld or Fiebings leather cement. Dries clear, strong bond, and very flexible. Marlon
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Remove Finish
Rawhide replied to aquamanlr's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Super shene should be fine, but if you want to remove it, use deglazer. However deglazer is some nasty stuff, so take precautions. Neatlac is another topcoat that's pretty durable. Marlon -
Thanks Regis, I don't want it for a bookcover, but that's the way they market it the goat... as bookbinding. I mount everything to crescent as I learned that from Peter as well. Marlon
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I'm thinking of ordering some bookbinding goat skin that Siegel has for sale. I would like to know if this is toolable and has anyone used this hide before and you general impressions or disappointments about it. Thanks, marlon
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Nate, Since you have a curved blade, you might want to make a negative of the blade out of some wood, then glue a thin strip of leather to it for your strop. I have bought the Razor Sharp system and I love it. I can sharpen/strop just about anything, even serrated blades. Marlon
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Welcome to the forum marlon
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Welcome to the forum addiction! Marlon
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Very nice mug wrap. Welcome to the forum. Marlon