Rawhide

CBJ, There is some finesse to "feeling" the right angle. Unfortunately, there aren't many jigs out there that will help you maintain that angle. You could mabe make a wedge at the proper angle and rubber cement it to the side of your blade if you don't think you can hold it. Problem is you'll be grinding it as well. I know quarters vary and these therefore your angle will too, but keep in mind, it's just an approximation. You could also fold a piece of paper like you're making a paper airplane, then fold it the same way again and it will give you a 22.5 degree angle. Once you establish what the angle is, It's not very difficult to keep the blade at that angle. Most people probably do it by referencing the distance of the ferrule from the top of the stone/hone. If that distance is about an inch, most people can see the difference between that inch and an inch & a half, and know whether or not they are maintaining that angle. I hope this answers you question. Bruce may have a better response. Marlon

This place seems to be a great source with decent pricing and just wondering if anyone orders from them. If so, what kind of experiences have you had. Thanks, Marlon

One caution on Barry's blades. They have larger shanks than what tandy knives will hold. If you have a knife made by Barry, then you're golden, but if not, you may have to ask for a thinner shank. By the way, he has very good bead blades. Marlon

I have one that I bought from a forum member a while back at a reasonable price. But anywhere else you look, it will be about 200 bucks! Good luck in finding one. Hope you can find it at a decent price too. Marlon

You're most welcome Russ. There is also a link on the "More Tips & Tricks" page which is linked on the main page. Marlon

Great. I'm glad this is useful to you. Bruce, do you like about a 15 to 18 degree angle? What are some of the advantages for your thinner angle? I'm just asking, because I someone may be thinking it! Marlon

To all: I have had several requests to explain how I sharpen my head knives. I am by far not an expert, but here is how I do it, and it works for me. There was a thread where I addressed this before the crash of 07. Below is a link to the tutorial that most gracious Johanna has created. Please feel free to contact me if you have questions. I hope this is something useful. Tool on! Marlon How to sharpen a head knife https://leatherworker.net/sharpenheadknife.htm

Blake, I don't have a Henley to trade you, but if you consider selling it, let me know, I may be interested in buying it. Marlon

Hilly, It will stick. And stick well enough to tool and prevent stretching. I've done it on several projects. Just be sure to let the cement dry to a tacky state. Also, the more coats you put on, the tackier it will get. I usually put on two coats and that's plenty enough for it to stick. Give it a try. Marlon

another thought would be to chuck it in a leather sewing machine then just rotate the wheel by hand. Marlon

Has anyone thought to chuck an awl blade in the drill press and use scrap leather on the bottom. (Don't turn the drill on of course) but this way you could get straight holes. Just an idea. Hey Bill I just read your post. How great minds think alike.

Understood. That is quite a bit of leather to stab holes through. You have to kind of get the hang of it to guarantee they will all line up on the backside. If I don't have a grooved channel on the back side, I punch the first hole, and the last hole on one side then connect them with a light scribe line. Then I'll punch in between them using the scribe line to line up the exit point. Works pretty good for me. (I have used a dremel by the way to do a briefcase, it was much faster, but control is the issue for me). Have a good one!

If your awl is sharp and polished, it should be fairly effortless to stab your holes. Marlon

Here's how I do it. I rubber cement a piece of Crescent (#201) illustration board (hobby lobby) to my leather. Put rubber cement on the board only. I use a hotel room card to spread the cement out evenly. Then I stick the leather to the board. Case, tool and let dry completely. If you let it dry why still on the board, it won't curl up on you. When it's dry, it's easy to peel the board away, because the cement is only on the board. Now the back of your leather is still open to receive water if you want to shape or mold it or re-case it, or whatever. I got this idea from Peter Main. Marlon

I'll try to explain this. The best way to get that is to use an awl with a diamond shaped blade. When used at the correct angle, about 45 degrees, it will produce holes that seem to "lean" in one direction. When you start your stitching, start on one side of the article, but maintain that side as the first needle through the leather on each stitch. When you pull that needle all the way through, pull the thread up and into the corner of the diamond shaped hole and hold it there while passing the second needle through the same hole, pull stitch tight. Repeat this around the article and you should be able to see the angled look you're after. Marlon

Very nice bag. Would you be willing to share the plans? Whoever own that bag will be the envy for a long time to come!! Nice work. Marlon

They could have used a lap skive at the joint. That would virtually disappear. Marlon

Now I understand . The long tube portion is the scratch and the small elbow is the guide. Got it. Now, that "may" fit in my compass. I have the one like Bruce has in the first picture on the right side. Thanks for clarifying. Marlon

Ok, Would you post a picture of it in your compass? I can't imagine how it would work. My Osborne scratch compass has interchangeable scratches, but the scratches are a 1/4 diameter on one end and taper to the scratch on the other. The versagroover has an "L" style scratch like the one you can get at tandy. I must be confused on something. Thanks, Marlon

Is that a Douglas Versa Groover's tip? Marlon

That is a good knife. It fits the hand pretty good. I have one of those as well. I bought my Danny Marlin knife from him directly. It was very nice of the seller to give your knife a touch up for you. I hope you enjoy it. Marlon

Ok Hilly, Now you have to give up more than that, which one did you buy, how much? I'll give you a hint on maintainin it. When you have to sharpen it, use an extra fine diamond hone instead of the oil stone. It won't develop a dip from a lot of sharpening and will cut quickly, and clean up with water. I also strop on progressively finer auto sandpaper 800, 1200, and 2000 grit, then a rouge board. Ok, now give us the goods. (photos are always nice.)

I think he'll go just about anywhere. Class fees will probably vary, depending on class type and location. He lives in Houston, so that's where he would travel from. Marlon

Clay, When I saw those in my email, I swore they were photos of what he was planning to tool. My goodness this guy is good. Glad you posted these in this forum to let others see. Wouldn't ya just love to be an apprentice of this guy? Marlon

Hey Kevin, How goes it? I don't know what font he uses, but I just read a tip in Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal by one of our members (Yaklady). She uses Edwardian Script and a large point font. It yields some nice scripting. Are you coming back up for Peter's class? I can't wait. I already gave my check to the store. She said there were 5 signups already. Marlon