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Rawhide

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Everything posted by Rawhide

  1. My answers in red. 1) Glue I'm looking for a powerful glue that will bond somewhat quickly, that is somewhat flexible and waterproof. I'm currently using what seems to be rubber cement (from Tandy). When I bond with this cement, the grain side of the leather doesn't bond that well to another grain side side (flesh to flesh works wonders, however). First step is to scuff up the grain side. You can use a scratch awl for a small piece, or some sandpaper for lager pieces. Plus if you want the pieces to stick together permenantly, you'll need to use either contact cement or PVA glue. (PVA glue is Tandy's leatherweld, or Fiebings Leathercraft Cement). So you know, I'm pretty sure the process I'm using is the best, basically I coat both sides, wait until slightly tacky and then push together and hold firmly You can also use a roller of some sort to be sure they adhere evenly. What kind of glue/cement do you use and where do you get it? I use Tandy rubber cement when I'm lacing or stitching because it will pull apart if i need it to. I use Barge contact cement for a permenant bond, or Fiebings Leather Cement for permenant flexible and Clear bond. I get Barge from Tandy, but you'll need a Tax ID to get it in pint or gallon sizes. I get the Fiebings from Hidecrafter's, but I'm sure there are many places you can get it. 2) Edge Coat Also, I'm looking for a more robust edge coat than the yellow bottle of "edge kote" sold at tandy (only available in black and brown). I know there are better, more thicker edge coats that bond very well to edges of purses, wallets etc. Where can I get some of that? And in other colors? I just use Fiebings spirit dye for the edges, and then slick it after dying it. I can get any color I want using dye vs. edge coat. Marlon
  2. They are tooled. I will ask if he will send me a close up. Marlon
  3. yeah that third hand is really hard to beat. Glad you like yours. This one is a variation of the one Al designed. Marlon
  4. Thanks guys. I appreciate the compliments. I can't take credit for the seat, but I rebuilt the rest of it from new wood. Hopefully it will last me a while. BillyP, Thanks again. Those plans did help a bunch. I couldn't follow the plan exactly because it would have meant a lot of reworking the existing stuff, which I wasn't ready to do. Marlon
  5. Here's a picture of my stitching horse clamps that I just completed. I had forum members BillyP and Blake assist me with what they had in design and I modified the design to suit my needs.I drew the parts in CATIA (3d modeling software) and printed a full size 2D section. I traced the section onto the end grain of some hard rock maple and had a guy at the local Woodcraft rough cut them out for me on the band saw. I then used my belt sander to finesse the shape and then an orbital palm sander to smooth out the finish. Then I cut out the necessary notches and holes with a jigsaw. I covered the tips with garment weight leather. They aren't perfect, but they work for me! Marlon
  6. Kate, I used to work at a casino owned by Argosy Gaming, and they had a strict policy of "NO BEARDS". I could wear a small goatee under the bottom lip, but no further than that. I got the job wearing a beard in the interview, but was told I had to shave to keep it. Not sure if it's the same now since it's been over ten years since I worked there. Marlon
  7. They do not have a web store...yet, they are planning to have a purchase online option. I'm not sure who they contracted for IT, but I'm pretty sure they don't have their own IT department. Kate, I agree that we as a local community can only account for so much business, plus I think that they do need to get on the ball and get it done. For folks like me or those who don't mind calling in orders, it probably doesn't make much difference. But for those who depend on web buying and the like...they are losing countless customers daily. I hope they can get it right. Marlon
  8. I went into H/C yesterday and believe me they are busy. They've got a ton of classes lined up from George Hurst, to Peter Main, to Barry King. What Ron told me is that they have to complete the "what do we keep, what do we offer" lists first before they can complete the catalog. I know everybody wants it right now in this digital age. I still think they are a viable supplier and will continue to use them. Marlon
  9. Not sure. I remember at one time that a magnetic money clip would kill a credit card. That's not the case anymore, but I can't speak for the new digital items. Marlon
  10. Those are a little thinner than the size I use from woodcraft. I have a woodcraft store near me, so I can walk in anytime and don't have to wait on shipping. The 1.5 mm thick is about 1.8/32" or roughly 1/16th of an inch. Marlon
  11. I use these from Wood craft. They are very strong and thin. Marlon
  12. And to think, that coin is CARVED! He said it took him a couple of hours to carve it. Marlon
  13. Peter has done it again... Hello, ...firstly I must thank Frank J Zaharek Jr who was kind enough to send me the buckle blank. I carved a one dollar coin and inlayed it into alligator....the buckle is lined with kangaroo (saw how to do this in an old leathercraft book). Because of the (unattractive metal) loop being visible when worn, I have covered it with goatskin. Will post the completed belt and accessories at a later date. Peter
  14. Amen to that! Marlon
  15. He's definitley up to something, but he's pretty tight lipped about it. I can't wait to see. Marlon
  16. Didn't think about that! I just assumed he was wetting the entire piece. Marlon
  17. I'm not sure what you're doing wrong. You could have dirt and oils on your hands when you shape or bend the leather. You could also be burnishing the leather as you shape it without knowing it and when it dries is looks like a dark spot. You can try a mixture of a pint of warm water and oxilac acid crystals and scrub the leather, or you can try saddle soap and warm water. Marlon
  18. Another fascinating piece from Peter... In case of a power outage...or just to set the mood The candle is white kangaroo...the holder is gold-leafed roo...both are 'pared' paper-thin. A wire runs through all for stability. Peter
  19. Go to Home Depot and get a charcoal filtered mask. This will allow you to work on it without smelling the ill effects. I know this doesn't remove the smoke smell, but it keeps you from gagging! Marlon
  20. Those awls are really too large for fine handstitching. You'll have to either grind them down to size, or buy one from someone who makes them. Some names for you are Peter Main (38.00) including haft, Bob Douglas (65.00 I think) including haft. There are others, and other folks will probably chime in. Also, look here for a wonderful description of awls by Verlane. Click Here (see pdf in post #6) Marlon
  21. soda is right. That Mexican round braid is beautiful, but be prepared because it takes 10 times the perimeter length in lace, and is a pain in the butt to complete. It's simple, but time consuming. Marlon.
  22. you can get a glass slicker from Barry King as well. Marlon
  23. Not sure what you're trying to do, but sounds like you're trying to dye the grain side near the edge of a piece, not the edges. If this is the case I'm not sure if it can be done effectively without using either a dry brush technique, an airbrush, or using a border to separate the grain and keep the dye from running. Try masking the area you don't want dyed with blue or purple painters masking tape. Then when you get your dye on the brush, remove as much excess dye as you can on some absorbent paper til the brush is almost dry. Then dye your edges in several passes to get the darkness you desire. BE SURE TO TRY THIS ON SCRAP FIRST. Marlon
  24. I have Barry's tapered and straight mauls, and wouldn't trade them for the world. Absolutely the best IMO. The wooden mallet that comes with the beginner kits is just that, beginner. It's not nearly heavy enough, and I don't think comfortable enough. If you grab a Barry King maul and use it, I guarantee you'll never want to use anything else. I also have a 2 lb Al Stohlman maul that has the rawhide face and a poly backup and I use it for Basket stamping and strap cutting, etc... Marlon
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