Rawhide

Oil dyes penetrate more deeply and yes I believe more evenly. However, you should try them as suggested with the sheepswool scraps in a circular motion. This will give a slight burnishing effect as you're applying and effectively start to seal the fibers. Marlon

I just asked a similar question to Peter Main and here's his answer: Just get some Fiebings 'oil dye'...put on the gloves...pour some onto sheepsfleece....apply it as evenly as possible (no need to completely saturate the leather)...add also to the back. Allow to dry over night....buff with fleece...add a finish and all is done. Tiz best to slick edges and back after dying...a little oil will help slick the grain on the flesh side...use a glass slicker for this. Peter

I don't think Tandy quit selling it. Springfield may just not have it anymore or just not stocked. Plus Tandy still has it on their website. Marlon

I used to use it, but now I just use water. I get the same or better results. But to use it, just coat the edge or back of the project with it (I used it on dry leather). Then rub it with a slicker or piece of canvas and this should make the fibers lay down. Marlon

here's what I do. I use cresent illustration board #201 and I cover it with an even layer of rubber cement. I don't put any on the leather. then I stick the leather to the tacky rubber cement and smooth it down from the center. I use a rubber cement eraser to pick up the excess cement. Then I case my piece and stamp. When I'm done, I peel the illustration board off of the leather (not the leather off of the board) and the back is just as smooth as when I stuck it together. Marlon

I get mine from woodcraft. Woodcraft magnets

There are several styles of embossing. Not with a machine though. One method is to stamp the design first, then push the leather from the back to make it stand out and fill it with a mix of leather dust and rubber cement. Google Robb Barr for the extreme end of this type of embossing. The other method is called applique embossing and is much more involved, but yields great results. Google work by Peter Main. This is where you create the same cavity as the other embossing style, but you fill it with another solid piece of leather, cut out the whole thing and sew it to a backing (usually leather as well). Marlon

Technically, you can't. The stamping, especially if you used smooth faced tools instead of checkered or lined tools, will burnish the leather which seals the fibers and tends to not accept dye. you're hitting too hard and too deeply. If you want an extreme raised effect, you might try embossing. Marlon

I don't know on these pieces specifically, but if you do a search on "elephant pad from Peter Main". He said that those were selling for about $550. Not sure if that was the retail for the company he was making them for, or his price to the company. Marlon

I know! Doesn't it tick you off just the tinyest bit that you can't produce work like this?

Here's some filigree belts and a followup to the oil boot tops, (posted previously), by Peter Main. Enjoy, Marlon

I would venture to say, David Morgan. He's written a couple of books on braiding and whipmaking, plus he cuts roo lace. you can google him, or look on the main page with the links. I think he has a website. Tina, Fantastic as usual. Your artistic ability never ceases to amaze! Marlon

That's fair. That's some fine braiding in my book.

I live in Ft. Worth and Denton isn't far for me at all. However, I'm such a rookie at braiding, I wouldn't know where to start or even ask questions. Mainly I would like to get to the point, where I can cover the handles of my tools, like awl handles and such. I also noticed you have a string cutter for sale. What are you looking to get for it? (if you don't mind me asking). Thanks, Marlon

Would you have to clean it first with maybe some saddlesoap? Or can you just use the rejuvenator with no prep work? Marlon

If you think about it, it makes sense. When tannery's tan leather, they use bark from trees. This is one of the ingredients that gives the leather it's color, so you'll probably get a nice tan or brown out of it. Marlon

That's it Kathy. That's the exact same thing I have. Do you leave dye in it, or do you clean it after each use? William, I bought mine at the IFoLG show that was in Ft. Worth in '07. I'm sure if you call them, they can let you know if they still carry it. If I'm not mistaken, I think they have their own edge coat formula. Marlon

Braiding classes are hard to find, period. You almost have to become an apprentice to find the teachings. I have purchsed several books, but would definitely like some instruction. Maybe someone will chime in that knows. Marlon

Good info Jam. I actually use the cardboard paper wheels to keep the edge honed when I'm at home, and I use the four sided strop to fix it up when I'm away from home. However, I wrote the tutorial for those folks that don't have the grinder/buffer to use. This is the old manual way to do it. Thanks for the additional info.

Todd, What do they cost? Marlon

If I've got a lot of edging to do, i.e. multiple belts, I use the Chaylor Fenelli edge roller thingy. It has a reservior and a plastic wheel that refreshes itself like celticleather uses. the advantage is the plastic wheel. It has grooves to wick away the excess dye and it won't degrade with using spirit dye. If I'm just doing one or two belts, I'll use the burnt wool dauber. It almost immediately develops the groove to keep the edge of the belt in and this will all but guarantee a straight even dye job. I prefer the dauber, but it's just not practical for a lot of belts, etc... Marlon

first thing I'd tell you to do is get two books by Al Stohlman. Belts Galore, and Leathercraft Tools. The belt book will explain how to make your own blanks and keep you from making the simple mistakes like making it too short. The tools book will teach you how to use each tool properly as well as maintain it. Like mentioned before... Go meet the neighbors! Marlon P.S. Welcome to the forum.

I've seen them on ebay, but very rarely. They are very hard to find. You may be able to get a custom tool maker to make one for you. Custom tool makers i.e. Jeremiah Watt or Barry King, Robert Beard, etc... may make them for you, but they aren't cheap. Marlon

I haven't made any holsters but I would treat it like any other molded project. I would mold it, dye it, round edges, sand edges, dye edges, burnish edges, oil it, seal it. Then groove the stitch groove and stitch it. Marlon.

that's a great idea bruce. I never would have thought of that. Love this place!!! Marlon