Rawhide

You don't necessarily need a tapered stone or a dremel. If you have a flat stone, you can sharpen it up. All you'll need to do is hold the tool on the stone where the angle of the tip is flat against the tool. (sort of like you do a swivel knife blade). Pull the tool away from the cutting edge along the stone while turning it at the same time. The tool should rotate completely around with one pull of the tool. This way you don't creat any flat spots. If the're are any chips in the cutting edge, this process will take a while. I would probably use a course stone, then a fine stone, then strop it the same way on a rouge board. Good luck. Marlon

I think you should be quite fine. We have a refurbed laptop (Toshiba) and it has served us fairly well. We have since switched to Macs now, but still use the toshiba for my wife's embroider machine. Marlon

You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.

I started playing with embossing and applique in the seventies...unfortunately I have no photos here of that work. I attach a photo of the only early piece I have (1980)...all of the dark pieces are appliqued...I have also used copper wire to make the fire tools, nails etc. ...and all that was only twenty eight years ago! Peter Enjoy, Marlon

Here is a appliqued piece that Al did in 1990 for some friends in Cache Creek, Canada. There are eight pieces that make up this picture... Ann hand sewed the rough-out frame...it is a magnificent piece of art. Peter

i agree here too use what's comfortable. I like the scalpels because I can bend them a little to skive as well. By the way, I prefer a utility knife like the one you were using. I strop my blades after the first few cuts. I think leather artisans are the only folks that feel the sharpest blades and say "mmm, needs to be sharpened or stropped a bit" Marlon

ahh now i get it. the ones with the thumb adjustment to extend and retract the blade. Sorry for the misunderstanding. cheers Marlon

I disagree. I thinks the scalpel blades,#11, are thinner than exactos. If you're not careful, the snap easily and go flying. I've never snapped an xacto blade. Marlon

Purely aesthetics. Marlon

Holly, do you buff the dyestuffs off before you put the wax on? In talking with Peter Main, he says you have to buff the dyed leather after dying. For stains I use sheeps wool so I can get into the crevices. But just use a t-shirt rag and buff til your arms get tired, then buff some more until the dye stops rubbing off. Then you shouldn't have any bleed off, unless they get them soaking wet. Marlon

You could just cut a hole in the belt a little smaller than the coin and gouge out a recess for it to sit in, then cover it with a liner. Marlon

I don't know much about the magna tac glue, but the gorilla glue expands as it cures and doesn't cure clear. Especially if there is moisture present. It will hold just about anything, but I would definitely do some experimentation with it first. Marlon

You're welcome Randy. We did have a great time. Glad you enjoyed the pictures. Marlon

First off, welcome to the forum. Second. Don't panic. Neatsfoot oil will look blotchy until it soaks in completely. I usually let the parts sit overnight between coats of oil. Also, I apply the oil with a sponge, and work it in a circular motion. Unless you just loaded it with oil, it should return near the raw color with a slightly darker tint to it by the 24 hour period. you can actually apply a few coats of oil until you get it the the color you like, or you can stain it with stain, NOT DYE. To apply the stain, gather some paper towels about 3 or 4 sheets. Fold them in half several times so they make a "pad". Wet them with some water, not soaking, a nice wetting. Set them aside for now. Apply the stain (to one piece of the project at a time) to your project in a circular motion, don't let the first part of the application just sit on the project, because it will stain darker than the rest and it'll be hard to match. I usually apply with a sponge or a piece of sheeps wool that's clipped down to about 1/2" to 3/4" thick, but I think the sheeps wool works better. Work the stain into all the crevices of the cuts. Once you've got an even coat (make take some more stain), take the wet paper towel and wipe off the excess, you can use circular motions here too if you like, but I don't think it's necessary. You'll use up the rest of them as they get full of stain. Continue to wipe until you think you've removed all the excess stain. Let this dry overnight, come back the next day with a piece of sheeps wool and buff the heck out of it, make sure you get into all the crevices again to get the clumps of stain out (this will prevent rub-off in the future). Next, buff it with a t-shirt scrap til your arms get tired, then buff some more. Finally seal it with a sealer of your choice (usually several light coats of sealer works best). Good luck, Marlon

what area do you live in? I thought that all places had a place that made headstones. Look in your local phone book (yellow pages) for Monuments. They always have scraps and mistakes that they can't sell. Marlon

I went to a monument place, and bought a 2 ft x 4 ft headstone for 40 bucks. Lot cheaper than $175. Marlon

I agree with the sanding part, but the beeswax on the buffing wheel should be postponed until the edge is slick already. I would wet the sanded edge and then slick with a piece of hardwood or bone folder. then use the beeswax and you should get a good edge. Marlon

Just like Peter!

Another masterpiece from Peter. Hello, ...a friend gave me a small piece of elephant skin to play with, so I decided to make a desk pad using fittings I brought back from Australia. My original design was an elephant head inlayed into the top...but I decided to try something different. The head is layers of sculptured leather...as is the trunk. These were then covered with lightweight cowhide and textured with 'that' modeling tool. The shape of the head and trunk were traced onto the lid...this area was cut out undersize. This shape was skived to a feather edge so it would curl up around the head and trunk. The two pieces are secured with hidden threads and were colored with spirit dyes. Elephant skin is the toughest leather I have worked with...it required a lot of skiving all round to make it turn over the edges...the desk pad is lined with black kangaroo. I am having the pads made to fit...the photo shows a piece of fome-core just for the photograph. Peter

Shark. Best meat I've ever tasted. I'm originally from Louisiand and I'd like to provide quick note on nutra rats. They aren't rats in the normal sense (although are classified as rodents). They are more like beavers, but a little bigger. A few They were brought over for fur trade from Argentina. However the population exploded beyond control and they became the pests, destroying hundreds of acres of corn, soybean, etc... They were introduced in the 1930's but were claimed to all be reclaimed. However, Tabasco founder E.A. McIlhenny kept 13 caged on Avery Island, La. A hurricane in 1938 freed them and from there the population skyrocketed. Sorry for the, more than asked for post. Marlon

Chuck, Sorry we didn't get to meet, but we had a great time as well. Let us know how your Toro works out. Marlon

Me too! Looks delicious!! Peter's attention to detail is amazing. Plus, most of those things are really simple techniques he uses that most of us just don't think of. Marlon

Peter asked me to post this: Hello, ...here are some boot tops just finished. They are carved on 2-3oz leather and are colored with spirit dyes. I will post the completed boots at a later date, Regards, Peter Marlon

Mike, Welcome to the forum and the addiction. Another book you can try is Valarie Michael's book "The Leatherworking Handbook". There are a few nice bag patterns there. Marlon