Rawhide

I would venture to say, David Morgan. He's written a couple of books on braiding and whipmaking, plus he cuts roo lace. you can google him, or look on the main page with the links. I think he has a website. Tina, Fantastic as usual. Your artistic ability never ceases to amaze! Marlon

That's fair. That's some fine braiding in my book.

I live in Ft. Worth and Denton isn't far for me at all. However, I'm such a rookie at braiding, I wouldn't know where to start or even ask questions. Mainly I would like to get to the point, where I can cover the handles of my tools, like awl handles and such. I also noticed you have a string cutter for sale. What are you looking to get for it? (if you don't mind me asking). Thanks, Marlon

Would you have to clean it first with maybe some saddlesoap? Or can you just use the rejuvenator with no prep work? Marlon

If you think about it, it makes sense. When tannery's tan leather, they use bark from trees. This is one of the ingredients that gives the leather it's color, so you'll probably get a nice tan or brown out of it. Marlon

That's it Kathy. That's the exact same thing I have. Do you leave dye in it, or do you clean it after each use? William, I bought mine at the IFoLG show that was in Ft. Worth in '07. I'm sure if you call them, they can let you know if they still carry it. If I'm not mistaken, I think they have their own edge coat formula. Marlon

Braiding classes are hard to find, period. You almost have to become an apprentice to find the teachings. I have purchsed several books, but would definitely like some instruction. Maybe someone will chime in that knows. Marlon

Good info Jam. I actually use the cardboard paper wheels to keep the edge honed when I'm at home, and I use the four sided strop to fix it up when I'm away from home. However, I wrote the tutorial for those folks that don't have the grinder/buffer to use. This is the old manual way to do it. Thanks for the additional info.

Todd, What do they cost? Marlon

If I've got a lot of edging to do, i.e. multiple belts, I use the Chaylor Fenelli edge roller thingy. It has a reservior and a plastic wheel that refreshes itself like celticleather uses. the advantage is the plastic wheel. It has grooves to wick away the excess dye and it won't degrade with using spirit dye. If I'm just doing one or two belts, I'll use the burnt wool dauber. It almost immediately develops the groove to keep the edge of the belt in and this will all but guarantee a straight even dye job. I prefer the dauber, but it's just not practical for a lot of belts, etc... Marlon

first thing I'd tell you to do is get two books by Al Stohlman. Belts Galore, and Leathercraft Tools. The belt book will explain how to make your own blanks and keep you from making the simple mistakes like making it too short. The tools book will teach you how to use each tool properly as well as maintain it. Like mentioned before... Go meet the neighbors! Marlon P.S. Welcome to the forum.

I've seen them on ebay, but very rarely. They are very hard to find. You may be able to get a custom tool maker to make one for you. Custom tool makers i.e. Jeremiah Watt or Barry King, Robert Beard, etc... may make them for you, but they aren't cheap. Marlon

I haven't made any holsters but I would treat it like any other molded project. I would mold it, dye it, round edges, sand edges, dye edges, burnish edges, oil it, seal it. Then groove the stitch groove and stitch it. Marlon.

that's a great idea bruce. I never would have thought of that. Love this place!!! Marlon

You don't necessarily need a tapered stone or a dremel. If you have a flat stone, you can sharpen it up. All you'll need to do is hold the tool on the stone where the angle of the tip is flat against the tool. (sort of like you do a swivel knife blade). Pull the tool away from the cutting edge along the stone while turning it at the same time. The tool should rotate completely around with one pull of the tool. This way you don't creat any flat spots. If the're are any chips in the cutting edge, this process will take a while. I would probably use a course stone, then a fine stone, then strop it the same way on a rouge board. Good luck. Marlon

I think you should be quite fine. We have a refurbed laptop (Toshiba) and it has served us fairly well. We have since switched to Macs now, but still use the toshiba for my wife's embroider machine. Marlon

You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.

I started playing with embossing and applique in the seventies...unfortunately I have no photos here of that work. I attach a photo of the only early piece I have (1980)...all of the dark pieces are appliqued...I have also used copper wire to make the fire tools, nails etc. ...and all that was only twenty eight years ago! Peter Enjoy, Marlon

Here is a appliqued piece that Al did in 1990 for some friends in Cache Creek, Canada. There are eight pieces that make up this picture... Ann hand sewed the rough-out frame...it is a magnificent piece of art. Peter

i agree here too use what's comfortable. I like the scalpels because I can bend them a little to skive as well. By the way, I prefer a utility knife like the one you were using. I strop my blades after the first few cuts. I think leather artisans are the only folks that feel the sharpest blades and say "mmm, needs to be sharpened or stropped a bit" Marlon

ahh now i get it. the ones with the thumb adjustment to extend and retract the blade. Sorry for the misunderstanding. cheers Marlon

I disagree. I thinks the scalpel blades,#11, are thinner than exactos. If you're not careful, the snap easily and go flying. I've never snapped an xacto blade. Marlon

Purely aesthetics. Marlon

Holly, do you buff the dyestuffs off before you put the wax on? In talking with Peter Main, he says you have to buff the dyed leather after dying. For stains I use sheeps wool so I can get into the crevices. But just use a t-shirt rag and buff til your arms get tired, then buff some more until the dye stops rubbing off. Then you shouldn't have any bleed off, unless they get them soaking wet. Marlon