RoosterShooter

Do you make molds for the S&W 686 and S&W 629? Also, a very popular model would be the S&W 500 Magnum.

gottaknow ... Can you post me a link of the rebuild? I looked through every topic titled "211g" on the forum, and didn't see it. Thanks

Thanks. I might have to give that a try. As it sits right now I have the tension pretty tight on both.

Can none of you help me with this? I've searched all over the net, and can't find any info on this.

My local guy is a 'home sewing machine' repairman / salesman. Even though he sells the industrial / used machines he knows very little about them. I opted to go with a the FS-550 that Toledo sells. I had more confidence in speaking with Bob on the phone than I did in speaking to my local guy face to face.

Let me know how you turn out on this. I've been fighting the same issue since March of 2013, and have learned to live with it. I make leather holsters, so I can work out the 'wrinkles' when I wet form and everything is ok after that. Let me know if you come up with a solution. Tippmann was very helpful in aiding me in the setup and adjustment of the machine, but I have been too busy to even think about calling them back for a 'fix' to the 'ugly bottom stitch' issue.

Is there any instructional videos or 'How-To Articles' on the site that would show me how to thread a Singer 211G151? I've been looking at my bobbin and shuttle for the past 15 minutes trying to figure out how to get the darn thing out of there, refeed the bobbin thread, and thread my machine for sewing. Thanks for all of your patience. I am going from a Tippmann Boss to an electric machine, and it is all completely new to me. Thanks

I found a Yamata USA, Inc "Family" Fesm550N locally for $100. Will this work for my 211g151?

Is there any specific information I will have to give them about my machine at Toledo before ordering the servo? Also, is this a 'plug and play' modification? In other words ... I have experience with switching motors out on rock cutting machines ... will this be somewhat like that? Thanks.

I've asked around locally, and a lot of people have mentioned that a Needle:20 Thread: 92 would be a good medium for what I am wanting to do with my machine. I'm wanting to stitch medium to heavy duck / canvas and garment leather. Do you think this is sound advice? Also, will the 92 thread leave a nice, attractive stitch on my garment leather? Thanks for the help on all of my questions. I really appreciate it.

Cocoa .... if he doesn't respond I know where one is sitting right now for a reasonable price. Message me, and I can get you the dealer's info.

Anyone else? I like options.

I'm needing an affordable servo for a Singer 211G151. Can someone please point me in the right direction on where to purchase one? Thanks.

How can I tell the difference between a standard and a servo motor type? If not equiped ... where can I find a decent one for an affordable price?

I picked up a Singer 211G151 today, and have a lot of questions concerning equipment, threads, needles, etc ... Up to the time I purchased my Tippmann Boss last Spring I had ZERO experience with sewing machines and/or their operation. I will continue to use my Boss on holsters and on projects that are heavy weight leather. The problem I am having is wrapping my mind around the whole "Singer Needle" and thread size concept. I have been thinking in the T-277 Thread and 7x3 200 needle concept for the past year, and now find myself not coming up with much information on cross referencing these needles and thread sizes in the automatic sewing machine realm. I spoke to a local sewing machine repair company owner today, and mentioned to him that I use 277 thread and a 200 needle in my leather applications today. He had no idea what I was talking about, and said that he has only dealt with household sewing machines and thread since being in business. 1) What is the thickest leather I should attempt to sew with the Singer? 2) Where can I find an operation manual for this machine? 3) If ordering from the Threadexchange.com what is the heaviest thread and type of thread that I should use in this machine? I plan on using it for sewing garment leather, handbags, pouches, and even canvas knapsacks and bags. Thanks for the patience, and understanding.

A local gentleman is selling a Singer 211G151 with table and "The Works". He is asking $300 for it, and it is in good working order and a trusted individual. I have a Tippmann Boss for my leather holster and heavy leather needs, but am thinking about getting into garment leather goods like small bags, pouches, etc .... Will this machine work good for garment leather and even lightweight canvas?

Thanks for the info guys. Does the name "30 Degree Neatsfoot Oil" have anything to do with the temp, or is it a process?

I make an natural oil tanned shoulder rig where I use only 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil. I buy it by the Gallon from a local distributor, and store a little at a time in a 1 qt. container with a lid. Today I went out to my shop, and noticed that the Neatsfoot Oil had started to separate. Half of the oil on the top looked O.K., but the other half on the bottom looked like coagulated butter. My shop is only heated when I'm in there, and I suspect temperature to be an issue. However, I do not know for sure, and that's why I'm asking. Does Neatsfoot Oil Separate?

I'm looking into making a Buttstock Ammo Holder for my Lever Action Rifle. I won't reproduce these in quantity, but just need a pattern for a single use / 1 time deal. Can someone help me out? Thanks.

Thanks for the input. I might 'fiddle' with the idea of a vacuum sealer after Christmas. Wait ... I might just put that on my 'Wish List'.

I've been making IWB and Shoulder holsters for a little while now. When I got my 20 Ton Shop press I outfitted it with a couple of plates, and I use 1" thick Foam for the molding process. I've been using 2 pieces on top and 2 on the bottom, and I haven't been very happy with my results. It doesn't give the detail to wet Herman Oak 8 oz. leather like I have seen in some instances. I'm using this item here ..... http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=41_524&products_id=4292 Should I try adding more foam, or should I go with a new product altogether?

I've not looked at the 'Dot Snap' website, but are the 'Durable Dot' snaps sold by Springfield Leather a 'Dot' product?

I've been on a never ending search for a snap setting tool for the past several weeks, and it has left me scratching my head and more confused than when I started. For the record, I only have the cheap anvil set that many leather supply companies carry, and I am not happy with the results. More often than not the anvil set creates different results every time, and I'm looking for the 'perfect' snap tool. What are your suggestions, and what do you use? I'm not worried about the cost as I do a small volume of leatherwork as a hobby and would be able to justify the cost over time. Thanks

I have a cheap bench grinder that I never use, and was wondering if there is a way to adapt the 1/2" arbor to accommodate a burnishing tool. Does anyone have any ideas?

I have been a customer of Bluegunstore.com for a little while now, but have had a recent problem with them. I am wanting to find out if any of you are having the same issue as I am. I purchased several 'Backordered' items from him over a month ago. He mentioned that it would be 10 to 20 business days for it to ship, so I patiently waited. Now, it shows the items 'In stock' and he is giving me some runaround that the items ship from the factory to me due to the backorder status, and that he cannot ship from his stock. My opinion ... I don't care where it comes from! When I paid him for an order, he stated 14 to 20 business days, and I am well over that time now .... he should get me the product regardless of how it comes. After all ... I ordered from Bluegunstore.com and not Rings Blue Guns, so technically my transaction was with Bluegunstore. If he has it in stock ... it should ship from that stock! What are your thoughts?