prc77ro

Thats the same thing that I did for the Buscedero rig I'm currently working on, but I was a little concerened because when i put the two pieces together and bent them around to get an idea of what it would look like around a waist the liner moved about 1/4-3/8" past the outer. I'm hoping that after they are cemented and hand stitched and oiled and dyed this wont be an issue. Also I used pieces of 1'2" dowell to form the 45Colt loops while the leather dried. I used the same 9-10oz leather for the loops so they are pretty beefy and look really good but they are JUST slightly larger than the cartridges so that the lip rests on the top of the loop. Any idea if this could end up being a problem in the future, or it may not do to the weight of the leather?

Those are Gorgeous! did you have to cut the inner liner shorter to account for the curve around the waist or did you just cut them to the same length?

I am currently working on a gunbelt for a coworker for a pair of Uberti Scholfields and I may have gone a little overboard. the inside and outside belts are of 9-10oz and I ended up using 9-10oz for the cartridge loops. My main question is I only had 4 rounds to work with but I had a piece of 1/2" dowell rod that i cut into 2" sections to insert into each loop untill the leather dried. Now the cartridges drop right into the loops with the rim preventing the cartridge from falling out. Will this be ok in the long run or should I get another 8 cartridges(I'm putting 12 on each side) and reform the loops tighter?

I'm a Union guy too, I played hooker for three years. My buddies dont like the Union(we watched some while deployed) they kept asking "when does the other team get the ball" I said "when they take it from the other team".

One more thing I forgot, I'm not an expert in metalurgy but I do know that the type of grind of the blade, hollow, taper, convex or flat, is one of the factors in ease of sharpening a blade as well as the actual steel its self.

I think that all depends on what you consider "top brands". Are you refering to name brands such as Tops, Benchmade and KA-Bar? or custom makers like Emerson and Jay Fisher. the name brands us many different types, usually dependant on what the popular type of steel is eg. AUS8, 145CM etc. I know Emerson uses 154CM or even the more expensive CPM154CM for his custom knives starting over $1000.00. Jay Fisher mainly uses 440C does all the millwork, heat treating, tempering and annealing himself but will use other metals at buyers requests depending on their requirements. Both make knives for Special operators such as the SEALS and Para Rescueman as well as for law enforcement. Some of the top name brand companies that I mentioned before use different steels, Benchmade is using alot of 154CM for their police/military autos and some of the linerlocks, Tops uses primarly 1080 and i know that KA-Bar used to use 1080 but I think they are now using 420 which is really soft, maybe 52RC.

The spur leather pattern pack is $4.00 cheaper at Springfield leather.

All the more reason NOT to use any of the 10 series carbon steels, they will rust in the air so imagine what will happent to the blade, the actual cutting edge going through tanned leather. You'd be better of with a good stainless like 440C. TwinOaks, you'd be better off using O-1 as L6 has no corrosion resistance so it will rust and has very low wear resistance.

Football is a Gentleman's game played by Hooligans and Rugby is a Hooligans game played by Gentleman Then I guess the question is Union or Football?

I built mine out of the same AS book, I just made a wider back support for legs used the same angles and added a support between the two blocks. You should be able to pick up the springs at a HD or Lowes or any other hardware store, and the locking plate I used a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, drill press and mill/bastard file to cut the teeth.

I'm more of a Rugby fan, wear the reversable team jacket regulary, bought it in Ayr in 2006 I think? Then a Scotland Rugby 3/4 length(I'm assuming it's something they may wear on the sideline) in 2008.

Rangers or Celtics? Just wondering not trying to start anything. On my way from the train station to the castle I was cursed at and flipped off for wearing a training jacket of one of the two teams, forgot all about the rivalry

Awkward in shape or thickness? BTW where in Scotland are you? my family is all from Aberdeen.

If people are still having problems maintaining an edge on their round or head knives try sharpening at a MAX of 20 degrees then increasing to a MAX of 30 degrees, should put a razor edge on. The old addage of " do the same amount of passes on each side" is incorrect. You should be sharpening on one side untill you feel a burr on the opposite side which means you have reached the center point. Then continue the same way untill you get a burr on the opposite side. The burr should be the entire length of the blade. once you have finished that with whatever your choices in grit is then strop and your ready to go. A good reference is The Razors Edge. Also I think all the terminology is, well, incorrect or maybe generic slang is more appropriate. The blade grind is the portion that looks like it was done with a large grinder, the length of the grind shows the diameter of the wheel. The Relief Edge would be the first angle or "bevel" as stated above with a MAX of 20 degrees. and the Edge Angle is the actual cutting edge with a MAX of 30 deg. All in all the Grind determines how much of the knife blade can be sharpened before it must be reground. A Flat Grind woud have to be reground more frequently as sharpening would cause the blade to thicken quicker. Oh one more thing arent Convex grinds found more on axes?

I agree with Glockanator, the Eco-Flow is terrible to work with. I picked up some acorn brown a long time ago because I could get it local ( and I didn't have the patience to wait for my order) and it seemed like it was drying on the leather before I had a chance to wipe it off. I havent used it since. I also tried the Fiebing in regular black but even after it dried it smelled solventy, maybe I put too much on? Now I use the Angelus dyes, the only difference, they come in 3oz where the Fiebings comes in 4oz and for certain colors you can get up to 32oz.

I don't disagree but I also think it differs from maker to maker. I'm guilty of not caring.....at first. Learned it the hard way on my first pair of spur leathers when the basketweave went the same direction on the left and right it didnt look good, then i figured out i had to layout one in the opposite direction. Plus I also learned from AS How to Make Holsters to draw a line across the widest point for your start line. I think it just really depends on the piece you doing. A completly parallel pattern may look good on something that is completly square but then i may not on something thats mostly square but has a few rounded corners in it, thats where an off kilter pattern may look best. Just my thought.

The violators would be reported to the copywright office as copywright infringement is violation of federal law. Also keep in mind that, as I understand it, even if you have not formally registered a copywright for a photo, literary work etc they are all STILL copywright protected. Technically it is copywright infringement to copy and paste original photos that you like or think are cool from one website to your Myspace/Facebook/etc. page. Oh and copywrights are good untill 70 years after the originators death. If the works are in the public domain ( basically historical designs such as Bowie knife blade patterns, and I would guess western belt patterns, holsters and carvings) then those are not copywright protected.

Thats an incredible design, and looks VERY sturdy.

Hellfire is right on point, if you have a form made for the case it all goes in the horse or pony, unless the item is too large for the jaws. I built my horse for about $50.

I still need to get a head knife or a round knife, I'm still using my trusty utility knife.

Your absolutly right! Alot of people but not all, see leather products in the stores and expect you to bang it out in minimal time for the same price. They don't care if your drawing the design from scratch, cutting it from a hide, carving, stamping, or even hand stitching(sometimes they say"why don't you get a sewing machine"). But Cyberthrasher is right you have to know or at least be in the ball park with how long the project will take+ materials. But lets say your going to make a holster that anyone could get from the many online websites, but your going to hand stitch vs machine sew do you charge more? or just base it on hrs worked.

Jay Fisher has done an entire page on his website about copywrite infringement as people have saved photos of his knife blanks from his website and tried to make copies and sell them for less. Any photos from a website wether stated or not are copywrited as soon as the website owner posts them. As far as leather patterns, if the design has been in the public domain, which the majority of sheaths, holsters, and cases of all types have there is no infringment. I had emailed Jay to ask his permission to use his leather sheaths as insperation for my own because i wasnt sure of what if any the ramifications could be if i just made one. His reply was that his retention methods and even the styles of his sheaths have been in the public domain for years and normally that type of stuff isnt patented or copywrited. As was stated before there is only so many ways to make a boat, and if the design has been around in the public domain then your not copying someone elses design your just using an exsisting pattern. You could make your own cell phone case by measuring and cutting, stitching or lacing but it would more than likely match someones somewhere, it doesn't mean you copied theirs. If you have the time go to Jay Fisher's website( just google him) and read his copywright page.

is the swivel knife still available?

In Al Stolhman's The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, there is a layout on the last 3 pages of the book. I'm in the process of building mine, just waiting on the latigo strap and some buckles. The entire 1/4 horse as it's called can be built for $60 or less depending on your materials.

Each pocket has welts that fit the blade and spine profile almost exactly, then I skived the welts down so they were thinner than the knives thickness and wet formed each pocket to the corresponding knife. Then as mentioned I added Neodymium magnets, two for the smallest and the middle knife and three for the gut hook knife to aid in retention as the pockets see wear. Also, the angle of knives in the sheath was done purposely so that they can easily be drawn while kneeling. This angle, as I discovered must be retained in order to draw each knife out of its own sheath, you cant just pull them straight out. Believe me, they had to be drawn and replaced after wet forming just so they would come out.