Red Cent

I lay the gun on a piece of poster board. I draw an outline of the gun. Then I sketch the style/form of the back piece around the gun. I usually add suede to the back and turn the slick side of the leather in so it looks lined :). I cut apiece of leather strategically from the cow side, cut the appropriate throat of the pouch, wet the leather, throw it on the gun and stick both in a food vacuum bagger. Instant mold. After about thirty minutes, I cut the bag and gingerly place the leather in the sunshine. Meantime I sew the cosmetic edges of the holster. Sweat guard and sometimes the toe and the throat. Suede has been glued on. I don't do stiffeners. I don't like them. 'Course money talks. Place dry molded leather on the back, looks OK then glue. Cut off everything that doesn't look like a holster, sand and burnish, dye and burnish, then stitch front to back.

Some people are turned off a little by the looks of the aluminum gun. It is not as "neat" and clean/detailed as the blue gun. You can see where an employee has taken a sander/grinder to certain spots to remove mold marks or a bump. Dimensionally, they are as good as the blue gun. And JSL's point about retention is a good one. I have a few of the aluminum ones. .

"I like the gp100 is because it resembles the old six shooters." Ohhhh, such irreverence.

"......to only cover the cylinder and frame and not the entire gun. That's the only part that's holding the guns in." The single action handgun contacts on each side of the front edge of the cylinder. The ejector rod and/or the barrel also makes significant contact with the holster. If one makes a holster with the old fashioned trigger guard cover, the front of the trigger will have contact and if one makes a holster with a welt, they usually depend on the trigger guard to stop movement of the gun into the holster. The "holster" you are describing seems to fit a Yaqui slide configuration. While legal, I would bet most SASS shooters would not use them. That holster would be somewhat flimsy and without barrel support may allow the gun to rotate. Or make it 2 ply and very stiff. The rule book simply says that we should use something that will retain the six guns during the rigors of the match. Retention is deceptive and a holster can be made to retain the six gun during the sprints to each long gun and still be perceived as "dangerous". Most all SASS shooters look for the very stiff holsters and some demand metal or kydex to retain the stiffness. A good holster built for speed and a modicum of retention will be 2 ply totaling around 12 to 14 ounces, very, very hard and stiff in the pouch and very little "flop" from hanging over the belt. Some of the purists (not a derogatory term) demand a holster that covers most all the handgun. These holsters are usually single ply and are not for the speed demons. Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer. Some reading this will understand. I build holsters for speed and ergonomics.

".......but that doesn't get the Resolene into the holster......." Don't need to get inside. At least, I don't. The sealer is to prevent ruining a good pair of jeans or a Jack Daniels t-shirt.

Oh. I do the belt as stated. I glue on the suede liner and using a utility knife, I carefully trim the excess holding the knife at a right angle to the belt. Then using the burnishing motor, I chuck in a sanding wheel. One wants the belt edge a 45 degree to the sanding wheel and a slight non-parallel hold so that the wheel (from the right side, mine turns counterclockwise and the belt is held under the sanding wheel) abrades the suede off the belt and the non parallel hold will keep the wheel from bunching up the suede. At first, the edge of the suede is a white line that goes away when you brush it. Steady as she goes.

"How you finish them edges, Red? Without actually holding one, I've always thought your rigs look good 'n' solid (in a impressive way). So you DO use the acrylic, or no? " I don't use any "edge" coating products. I spend too much time on the edges. I cut, sand edges square, bevel, then sand to round the edges. Very lightly coat edges with water, motor burnish (glass finish), dye (Fiebings dye) the edges, burnish again before dye is totally dry. Wipe on bar of glycerin, burnish and wipe edges thoroughly with old towel. Lightly rub on 50/50 beeswax and paraffin and burnish. Wipe edges with old towel until all color comes off om towel. Then M&P everything. This takes two or more days.

I always line the western gunbelt with suede. Putting an acrylic sealer on the leather is akin to greasing sled tracks. And most SASS shooters position the belt fairly low.

I can testify that an almost full 8 ounce bottle of dye (open) dropped from approximately 4' so that it hits the concrete floor solid/level/flat (not turn over), the resulting effect is similar to "ol faithful" and will touch about everything within 2' around and about 3' high.

I like the ramblings. NRK, just commenting on the trials and tribulations of our members and wanting to find that employee that will diligently search for the best hides they have to fill our order. AIn't gonna happen unless you pay the piper. A month or so back, I attempted to order from W&C. Annual shutdown. Ordered from another supplier I have used (shoulda known better) and was a little disappointed. Recently tried to order from W&C and was told 4-5 week. Catching up from shutdown. Cannot wait. Repeat scenario. The local Tandy manager is a wheeler and dealer. And I leave with the feeling I have left money on the table. At least I can feel and touch. Just talkin' and bi..............complaining. Got to keep it to myself from now on.

Dwight, I have considered it also. Besides trying to figure out where to put it. I would think a flood light (or two) in the bottom of a box ( I picture mine 24" square and 5-6' tall=small footprint) and, maybe an inexpensive thermostat on/off switch in the top. May not be necessary. I would say 130 F would work. That would be the highest temperature needed. I have baked some CC holsters in the oven @ 150 (lowest temp setting) for about 15 minutes. Kinda wet when started and came out good and stiff.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660250_200660250

Stand? Huh-uh. In my shop I work off two tables 4' x 8'. 2 X 4s underneath running the length of the table on metal sawhorses. Secretarial chair with pneumatic adjust. Concrete floor. For machine sewing, I put 4 rollers under a piece of 1/2" plywood and attached a folding chair. Gets me up high to see sewing on the Cobra 4. Visitors call it the throne. I built a "table" with two levels on rollers. Around 2' x 4' x 3'h. Contains almost everything I use making belts and holsters. Bunch of holes and hangers and bins. Only thing I really need to stand for is the belt sander and drill press. "I go to the doctor about every 6 to 8 weeks and get a cortisone shot for mine." WOW!!!

As JLS points out, the sales manager is Matt. First name on the list at W&C. Good luck. http://wickett-craig.com/tooling-holster-carving-pricing/

Knife by hand? What kind/weight of leather? What is/are your products?

Research has shown me this: http://store.jontay.com/woven_polyester_elastic_webbing.aspx and if you need to follow requirements: (these are "mil-spec" and Berry compliant) http://www.mmitextiles.com/product-lines/printed-narrow-fabrics- And when it is all said and done: (top row, last on the right) http://www.joann.com/search?q=woven+elastic I will send everyone a bill at the end of the month.

Denatured alcohol is just rubbing alcohol with an ingredient added to make alcohol addicts throw up. Seriously. Save money.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=plastic+squeeze+bottles&view=detailv2&&id=ADBA60EBDE449EDAAEB036E7B2FF343B0A881023&selectedIndex=51&ccid=5sZRNl4O&simid=608016926097606099&thid=OIP.Me6c651365e0e0dbf904138a3b49c72b4o0&ajaxhist=0

It is so depressing reading through all of the posts about changing leather suppliers.

"I've been buying from ZachWhite for $5/sqft." What are you buying? Craftsmen grade?

Maybe we should pitch in and pay David8386 to pick out our leather

".....the way you want the order handled." Say what!!! Shopping for leather is a roll of the dice. You never know what you will get. JLS, I went back to a leather supplier and thought, maybe, I will get some good stuff. Spongy again. Tried twice to order from W&C and both time was told they were shut down and could not/will not ship for a few weeks. So I trek back down to Ramseur and hand pick a couple of sides, a cheap double shoulder, and some other stuff. Now I see where you are returning HO leather. Holy.............!! Having said all of that, have you seen the sales that Tandy has going on? Might make a trip to Raleigh.

I make competition shotgun belts for the SASS cowboys. A top shooter has requested a special style and I want to make sure the elastic lasts.

hmmmmmmmmm...............

I need 1" black elastic band. I need really heavy duty stuff. Get my elastic from JoAnns but it tires rather fast. Does anyone know where I can get the real stuff?