Red Cent

Ain't difficult guys. Cobra 4 but same machine. Sewing the main seam on western holsters needs to be neat but the double or triple stitch look is life. When I start at the seam I sew three holes and go into reverse anytime the needle starts to come up out of the third hole. Preferably before it clears the hole. The reverse on these machines are pretty precise but certain "things" make things move. I stitch three, back up to the first hole and, then, go. At the end of the seam, I stop, back up two holes (three in all) and come back to the last hole. You can finagle the thread so that it lays on top of the threads. AND, I use the wheel with my hands. AND, I use the "lift" pedal to make sure the needle hits the hole. And it ain't perfect.

Go to The High Road and look for CraigC.

JREESER1 What he said. My thread is once around the top tension wheel and once around the bottom tension wheel.

weaver holster sides Are we talking veg tan sides? Ain't never heard of "holster" sides.

Thanks.

I didn't know that: http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Blue%20Training%20Guns%20by%20Rings%20

Nor does Ring's stock it. Anyone know the net address of Duncan's?

I have a holster request for the handgun. The blue gun store ain't got it. Is there something like it or does some one else carry it?

steelhawk has a point. If a/the customer is slightly overweight the holster will kick out at the top. Darn good looking holster.

Very good looking rig. One point. The belt line could be a little low. A slightly over weight individual will find that may stick out and print a lot. PS: Belt is really nice.

Welllll............ I have dealt with the Hide House twice. First and last. First time quite some time ago. Owner lost my order and when I called, they quoted some prices. Charged more in shipping and different weights of leather than ordered. Just a couple of weeks back, I ordered two of their "premium" sides. One in 8-9 and one in 5-6. 8-9 side runs different weight from back to belly. Both sides have holes in them. So much for "premium" sides. The 8-9 has "fuzzy back" that needs to be removed with belt sander to glue properly. I use a masking tape to attach a pattern to hide while outlining the product. The masking tape removes the color. After dyeing a piece of leather and drying it, I used a stitch line creaser. The thin outer "skin" of the leather bunches up. When beveling, the same stretches and peels and my bevelers are sharp. What is the old saying? First time my fault.

I have the ability to use a large horse stall mat. Mine is about 4' X 7' X 3/4". You can get a lot of sizes. Works great. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/horse%20stall%20mat

add Extra Virgin Olive Oil to the mix.

http://www.zackwhite.com/Drum-Dyed-Premium-Double-Shoulders_c_272.html

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Eco-Stay-Non-Slip-Rug-Underlay-4-x-6/33593911

Dwight, actually Bianchi said to use the next weight down to line the holster. He used 8-9 ounce and 7-8 ounce. I use 8-9 outer and a 5-6 liner. I never skive cause I don't look at the wrinkles After gluing them together I sew the cosmetic edges. Then fold and glue the main seam. But then, most are western style holsters. TallBald, I guess it would work. Don't know of a reason it would not. Pictures.

I use this a lot. I use the creaser and not the ditch maker. The creaser does not create a contrasting line on dyed leather and the creaser will lay down a smooth line that will swallow up the thread from my Cobra 4. Besides, you get all that other stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Set-5-in1-Pro-Adjustable-Leathercraft-Stitching-and-Groover-Crease-Leather-Tool-/361308274997

I have used veg tan shoulders from Zack White and they are decent leather. I have also used Tandy Leather, sides and shoulders. Since Zack's is 45 minutes away, I can go and pick out what I want. Tandy's is about an hour away and the same applies. I would try some of the mid price range leather before I would buy Herman Oak. Wickett & Craig will sell you one side at a decent price. You are just an hour away from Zack White. Go ask for Tim. Be prepared for an unsmiling face and a lack of salesmanship. Or, maybe, ask for Darlene or Heather. Tell 'em Red Cent sent ya.

The sanding, burnishing, dyeing, beeswax and paraffin seals but mostly it is the looks. All of my SASS products receive an acrylic sealer as I use a lot of natural leather in my rigs. This helps a little with spotting and sealing the edges against any absorption. . You are welcome.

Hey, Paris3200. Not too far.

No dunking here. And I threw the foam applicators away. I use old towels for a lot of things including using a piece of towel to apply dye. Experience has taught me to pay attention to the "wetness" of the leather. The leather at first will soak up the dye but the towel will only apply so much. I wipe it on in one direction. At a point in time, the dye wetness will linger and this means saturation. With practice, you can get it pretty even.

You set the bar awfully high.

I am on a few gun forums in the area. There are a few members who appreciate a very nice handmade holster; however the others want a price of Aliengear. Very nice looking holster, Snubbyfan.

First these are pictures of holsters that I squared the edges, beveled, hand sanded, and burnished with water and my grinder burnisher last night. As you can see, they look like the near holster in the first picture. The far holster has been edge dyed black as will the other one. This morning, I dyed the edges and immediately burnished them. The grinder/burnisher will level any bumps using the wet of the dye and normally shines like crazy. I no longer use Edge Kote nor any of the thick coatings. It needs to be said that the leather is of utmost importance in getting the glass look. Suprisingly, I have found that dry leather (usually cheap stuff) will do this better than the supple/soft stuff. Another discovery is that expensive stuff that has been vinagrooned will do very well. I guess it dries it out, huh? I will now sew the cosmetic parts. Then I apply/rub on a 50/50 beeswax/paraffin mix and burnish again. The burnisher will smooth and melt the mix into the leather. Let it dry and take an old towel and lightly buff. The towel will remove the excess mix, smooth over the irregularities, and, again, shine like crazy. Then I wet the fold lines and glue the main seam. The next day I will take my super smooth/used dowel rod and smooth over any cracks or bumps in the area where the flap goes over the holster. I will take some more pictures later. I use this to hand sand. Tremendous tool. http://www.lowes.com/pd_524021-1069-12192___?productId=50029342&pl=1&Ntt=rubber+hand+sander

First its the gun and now its your nuts Thanks fellas.