Red Cent

Mellow and clean/neat. Good work.

I always dye before applying glue. Dye is a glue marker.

"Plus, that $3k you aren't spending on that, pays for quite a few dies!" What 3 grand? I don't understand.

"And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also." What reason would this be necessary? Sturdy? No movement?

Price and availability did it for me. I would think there is some of a mental struggle to weld the plates in place and give up some of the advantages of the plain press. However, I don't plan to push out bearing rings. I use c-clamps for universal joints There is very little pressure needed to punch belt slots through two pieces of 8-9 ounce leather glued together. Wouldn't want to try it on a finger though.

Yes. Now looking to add the air over hydraulic. Boys and their toys.

If she was using a K frame, I would suggest the Safariland Comp III speed loader. Since she is using a J frame, I would suggest a JetLoader. Both of these speed loaders requires for the rounds to be inserted and the center button to be depressed once the ejector bar is encountered. The rounds will not come out of the speed loader within reason. The JetLoader is tall and easy to retrieve from a pouch, even covered. The other twist type speed loaders are a waste, in my opinion, under any kind of stress. They must be grabbed by the knob when pulled from the pouch without twisting the knob and inserted into the cylinder before releasing the rounds. It is funny sad to see someone under competition stress to dump their rounds half in the cylinder and half on the ground because their brain told them NOW. When I compete with a K frame, I use the Safariland Comp III, a speed loader that is comparable in size with the Jetloader and both are released by pressure on top of the button ONCE THE ROUNDS ARE SEATED. Carried vertical on a gun belt, the two spring loaded speed loaders will not be noticed. Same diameter, just a little taller. I like to talk speed loaders.

Press set up. Have not put the plates on yet. Man can that thing punch out belt slots.

A double holster western rig with gun belt does take a lot of time. Even when not tooled. Never really examined how many per week. Sometimes it rains, sometimes the sun shines. Not sour grapes, but I am having fun.

Yep, those are the colors. I want to get there with dye but I now know I can buy it ready made. MissionTom, did you dye or buy it that way. Color that is

Colt, you can buy different wheels that will fit your stitching wheel hand tool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400388832912?catId=14339&item=400388832912&mid=446528&sortbid=20&rmvSB=true

Very good work.

Jersey, this post mirrors my foray into leather craft. I also had a price of a Tippman as a high. After doing a lot of research and a lot of "Oh cr....!" moments I bought a Cobra 4. Bunch over your stated price to pay but if you can, work it out. Length of arm/throat really changes the price. As you might know there are a number of names that sell the same machine. A whistle there and a bell here, but they are a copy of the Juki 441. 1/2" or less ain't much leather.

As in revolver? http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=leather+revolver+speedloader+holder&qpvt=leather+revolver+speedloader+holder&qpvt=leather+revolver+speedloader+holder&FORM=IGRE http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-W-N-Frame-3-Leather-Holster-Belt-Speedloader-Pouches-Lightly-Used-/221907067265?hash=item33aab12181

BH, what size of thread are you using?

I have learned to dye first. Moccasin Brown huh? Just might try it. I want this color: http://www.desantisholster.com/SPEED-SCABBARD-8A?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=002BA8AZ0

There is something out there that works beautifully. A horse stall mat. I am lucky to have two 4' X 8" tables in my shop. I use one for the leather to be laid out and the other to cut and glue and all the other stuff. As a side note, I made a roller for a roll of paper from Lowes. This mounted under the table at the end where the mat is positioned. If I dye or glue, I pull the roll paper out as needed. Afterwards I slice the used piece from the roll. The horse mat is 4' X 6'. And mine is 1" thick. Tractor Supply or other like stores carry them. They carry different sizes and thickness. For those who have a small space, they can be easily be cut for size and store the rest. When cutting light or heavy leather, the knife will not penetrate all the way through. I use utility and carpet knives and have been cutting in the same area for over a year. I believe this was recommended by Chuck Burrows on Cas City. If you have the space, you can throw a whole side on the mat and go to work.

Thanks folks. I agree that the color is striking. And I plan to use more of it. Its just on the way of getting the color I want. As stated, buckskin dye turns almost yellow when dry. Looks dark in the bottle. And it takes just a couple of drops of russet, brown, dark brown, or mahogany to get some beautiful browns (with a reddish tint) in a half pint bottle almost full of buckskin dye to turn close to what it shows in the picture. I stopped thinning my dyes. The 50/50 mix always looked uneven to me. I have also reverted from a foam applicator to old pieces of towel. The foam applies way too much at a time for me. I wipe the dye on in one direction and there is a look that tells me I am close to saturation. I have not applied a sealer yet. The holster got a smidgen of Neatsfoot oil the other day. I never oil first (anymore). I will take another picture when I do.

I never use a welt in my holsters. No matter, I still get tracks. I don't think we can get rid of all the marks. Wet down the leather real good and flex the leather. It will stretch a lot of the marks out of the leather. May not do it with 3/4" of leather tho.

I have a bunch of gallon jugs on a bench along with some quart jugs. All are Fiebing dyes. Included, but not limited to, is dark brown, brown, russet, mahogany, buckskin, tan, light tan, black, and some others. I have been trying to obtain a tan color. A tan that is not too light or too dark. And without a reddish tint. I have found that buckskin, which is almost yellow when dry, with a couple of drops of brown gets close. But it still has that tinge of red. So far, the buckskin is my base to find the tan color. If you have ever used the tan dye, you will not suggest it. Nor the light brown. This is the result of buckskin and a couple of drops of light brown. And I really mean a couple of drops in a small bottle of buckskin.

Jay Nelson on Facebook rents them.

Actually, one needs the front end of an 1858 Remington.

Red Bear, after some research, I find that Ruger glued together a Blackhawk and an 1858 Remington to make the Ruger Old Army.

Thank you.

Thanks again Colt.