Red Cent

The Cobra 4 will go through an 8-9 plus a 5-6 easily (lined holster). Double this for the holster seam and it marches easily through the leather. I do not use a welt. Never liked the bulky blocky look it gives. However, I have sewn two layers of 8-9, two layers of 5-6, plus another single layer of 8-9 (welt) carefully. I use 277 top, 207 bottom, and a #25 needle (S). Polyester thread.

This is what I use. http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft

First problem is saddle soap. "Saddle soap is a proprietary compound containing mild soap and softening ingredients such as neatsfoot oil, glycerin, and lanolin." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddle_soap IMO, the last thing you want is a leather softener. On most leathers, just touch a wet rag to the edge and burnish. Heat (friction) and water. Edge should glass up. Next, dye the edge. When dry, and because the dye dries the leather more, it should burnish like glass again. Left piece, water, and burnish. Right piece, dyed and burnished.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Tool-Snap-Pressing-Machine-Kit-Various-Moulds-Dies-Sets-Snap-Fasteners/390726798743?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28796%26meid%3D76b0ced7c0204b79af271f7d95f0dc69%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D331124272017 Need to set Pull at the Dot snaps and speed up Line 24 snap setting. Is it worth it?

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Cool. On the way to SASS.

I don't like the appearance of the t-nut on the back of the holster. I put a tension screw all the way through the holster and use Chicago screws. I use the t-nuts a lot in between the leather to secure the skirt/back flap of holsters. I am going to get these at my local Lowe's. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=countersunk+bolts&qpvt=counter+sunl+bolts&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=2DCD02514E7B91B97B9E45266704EE75C7EA6AFC&selectedIndex=2 http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=finishing+washers&qpvt=finishing+washers&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=AD31842F21D7C62D0DFEBE04094CABF844DFDFC5&selectedIndex=49 http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=round+base+nut&qpvt=round+base+nut&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=9B4402E0B30A01376D79EC1052553EFA0C5FC732&selectedIndex=10

Thanks and you are welcome.

The holster has three strips of flashing cut to fit. Strips glued to each other and the leather. Wraps all the way around the cylinder area. And the two tension screws keeps the gun straight and secure. There is also a dimple placed in the trigger guard area barely bending in the metal and leather. No trigger interference but tension is good. Bend everything into shape (almost). Wet, form some more and then I wrap something like this in an Ace Bandage. Leather will dry very hard and rigid. Lot of retention on the gun. Won't fall out.

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Beautiful. I gotta try one.

Something interesting happened this evening. I changed out the black thread on top with white and replaced the bobbin with white. Started to stitch, went three and started to back up. Got the rat's nest on bottom. Snipped the threads and was going to start over. Turned the wheel to send the needle down to pick up the bobbin thread and it "gummed up". Hmmm. Loose threads? Took out the bobbin housing and discovered the bottom end of the bobbin spring came through a hole and, apparently, fouled things. Cleaned everything out and re-installed the housing. The problem. Without any thread in the bobbin, I could hold onto the end of the thread in the needle and it came back up freely. Not now. The hook (I guess) is snagging the thread and if I go completely around it will let go(nost of the time). Ain't right. Shut it off and will hit it tomorrow. Any ideas?

I tried it. And I tried oxalic. Went with oxalic. One can make the oxalic very strong easily. I will say one thing for the BKF. That stuff sure cleans the glass top of our electric range. Very little scraping to do now. I believe the main "bleach" ingredient in BKF is citrus. I can say by experience that lemon juice does as well as BKF. YMMV. "That's about as absurd a statement as I've read in these forums, and there are some doozies." Little rough, dont you think?

You mean someone ordered that!!?? Kiddin' Rohn. Very good lookin' holster. The green has to grow on me:)

You can make belts from a number of pieces. Research says the back is the best cut since it is long and the leather thickness is more consistent. You can buy a side which includes a back (which includes a bend), a single shoulder and the belly. A double shoulder will produce a few belt before length becomes a problem.

Apparently the blades are snapping trying to start the cut. If so, first suggestion is to make a slight cut to start the blade, then bevel the cut so the edge will get around the corner of the strap cutter(the one against the wood). With a sharp blade should be a snap on heavy leather. This might help. I modded my strap cutter to better hold the leather square to the cutter and doesn't require every finger to cut the leather. Simple dowel rods and glue. I was very surprised how well the rods improved the cutting experience.

Go to Lowes and get a can of Dap Weldwood contact adhesive. Get the gel formula. Buy a bucket of really cheap small paint brushes. Get a heat gun. After you apply a coat of gel, worry the adhesive to make sure it covers the piece and no blobs or lines of glue. Use the heat gun to dull the look of the gel. If it starts to bubble move on. Count to 5 and put the pieces together. Better have them together correctly.

I use EdgeKote if I am desperate . And it may work for some but saddle soap is a conditioner of sorts and will soften leather. "Saddle soap is a proprietary compound containing mild soap and softening ingredients such as neatsfoot oil, glycerin, and lanolin." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddle_soap And the edge is going to depend on your leather. If it is a good and stiff piece of leather, barely wet the edges and burnish. Should get a glassy look. Water and heat. 'Course, you do need to bevel and sand. And I agree that you should read HidePounder's tutorial on the edge. I push the roller buckle. It will save belts. A horse shoe shaped buckle will scruff the edges of the belt each time it is put on. At least push a square buckle but the square roller is best.

They used to have wire "blade" band saws. The use of a diamond studded wire like they use in glass craft should be better than a blade. Best of both worlds. Wife used to have one when she did glass craft. hmmmmmm................

Hobbi, got a question. Apparently you are hand stitching. If so, what happened with the stitches on the back of the holster? Just curious.

Dang, even I like that old fashioned piece of leather. Very nice.

C4 users are told to stop the machine once the needle has risen 1/4 inch or so before reversing. It will actually work just before the needle leaves the leather. Never tried the top of the travel.

From an adopted North Carolinian, howdy. May I ask what city?

Does it operate when you take the chain off the pedal and pull down with your hand?

Paramadic04, might want to check Black Hawk's website. Says they go for $39.99. Don't know about shipping. Interesting to find out that there is a dealer for them about 25 minutes from the house. Amazon has them for $39.95 marked down to $27.95. Free shipping if you buy two ($35.00) http://blackhawk.com/Products/Holsters-Duty-Gear/Holsters/Accessories/Demo-Guns/Demonstrator-Replica-Guns.aspx http://www.amazon.com/BLACK-HAWK-INC-44DG19-Demonstrator/dp/B004T0WILQ