Red Cent

Bonded polyester works great in my Cobra 4. Dirtclod put me on to it some time ago and I have used it ever since.

We have a Sailrite LSZ1 that will do the job adequately.

"Just got this machine and I need to buy smaller needles for it than the sizes it came with but I don't know what numbers to ask for." What size thread will you be using? The C4 usually comes with 277 top and bottom and a #23 needle. Smaller needles may cause you problems. I use 277 top and 207 bottom with a #24 needle.

Some are thinking curved and not round. A wide belt like on a buscadero rig will stand out at the top of the belt away from the body if it is not made curved. The correct way to make the buscadero belt is to cut a slow curve for the length of the belt. A belt that is 1 1/2-2" wide would not need the curved cut. And either belt will eventually conform to the curve of the belly, hips, and waist. I am not sure why you would need to make a "round" belt. Unless you want to .

Just for grins, take the holster apart. Fold the leather back the other way so that the floral design is inside (not showing). Sew it up. Fold the "flap" the other way. Taking into consideration the apparent soft floppy leather, you would have the beginnnings of a right handed IWB.

Normal Avenger slight angle. Straight hang Appendix or crossdraw

30 degrees is the most and 20 is about minimum. May I suggest you convince him to get an Avenger style. You will find the pancake does not lend itself to appendix or cross draw construction. The difficulty is providing good access to the grip. Build the Avenger style with the belt loop in front of the gun leaving the back loop on the back of the holster and the grip area free of obstruction.

Wow!

The best and strongest is get zipper stops. Matter of fact Zack White has them. I shop and buy there and I picked up some. A needle nose plier does a quick and good job on them. And they look a whole lot better than staples. Insert in holes, bend the points over and squeeze with the plier. http://www.zipperstop.com/product-category/ykk-chains-sliders-stoppers/zipper-stops/ The first two are the ones to get.

I have read on this site that a distributor/retailer sells RJF his leather. I discovered that their are ASCs. An ASC (term used by Tandy) buys from Tandy Leather and other products sold by Tandy. This is apparent as you can see the Tandy label on some store shelves. When I first started on this site, most everyone has taken Tandy to task for their quality of leather and over priced products. I am not campaigning for Tandy. I think the relationships are interesting. You might be buying Tandy leather when you call and order from your favorite distributor/retailer. A few weeks back, I ordered some "economy" hides from a west coast seller. Between the economy price and a "business number " price, it was darn good. On the phone they told me this was the same leather as their "good grade" except the dings, scars, holes, and brands. Those two hides are the sorriest pieces of leather ever. Dirty (non removable greyish spots), scuffed, and looked to be sanded on the back by a road paving scraper. No need to mention my lost order, huh? Besides the indiscriminate method of grading leather and the misleading advertisements, I have come to a conclusion that I may start driving to Tandy in Raleigh. I can take all day to cherry pick hides and as one has who has a "business number" I get some darn good prices. Better than anything I can get so far. Since I make the trip about twice a month anyway, I don't count the gas cost . I made the trip last Monday and bought an HO hide (8-9 ounce) and a Craftsman hide (5-6 ounce). Took a little over an hour but I walked out satisfied with price and some very good looking leather. We will see how it does.

A little much asked in the positioning of the holster. Unless you want to add a few snaps. Chief Jason has built some nice chest holsters for some hand cannons. He could help you. The chest holster only causes problems if you do not consider the balance of the handgun. But the .17 HMR Ruger is not a big handgun. Click on a picture of the slide show and see some neat holsters. http://www.diamonddcustomleather.com/Chest_Holsters.php

Thanks.

I use something like this. http://charlotte.craigslist.org/app/4669021424.html Cut the back piece as wanted. Cut a larger front piece, wet/case the front piece. Place over mold gun/real gun and place inside vacuum bag. A decent vacuum sealer will pull the leather down to the surface the gun is resting on. I let it set for a few hours. Unfortunately, it will not dry in the bag. But it has stretched the leather enough. Remove from bag and let it start to turn to the original color. Then use your thumbs, fingers, tolls, etc. Unless you are going to dye, do not rub the leather. Just press. You burnish the leather and it will change colors.

Very nice work. Really like the edges. Very smooth and natural looking.

I use the old deer antler thing. Natural leather lightly cased, then burnished after the exterior gets the almost dry look.

To me, the belt sander is somewhat like the sewing machine. I use it on most all my stuff. For tight places, I use a drum sander in the drill press. I finish with a flexible hand sanding block. Other than rounding an "end" or something similar, I always place the leather in line with the belt. I often run the edge up and down against the round front edge of the sander.

A "stiffener". The thought that it helps to holster the pistol. When I first buckle on my EDC, I then holster the pistol. And I never have to "re" holster the pistol. I think the only time you would holster your pistol would be right after the gun fight. Seriously, I don't care for them. I will put them on the holster if requested.

A couple of things that are personal preferences. First the wider and tighter the belt holder on the inside of the belt prevents "end sag". Since I can't hand sew, I lay a wide piece of leather perpendicular to the belt and between the "sandwich" of leather. After sewing, I rivet the ends together. Won't pivot. Second, unless requested I all ways use a roller buckle. Really helps the edges of the belt. Customers come back and say "You know that roller buckle you suggested............ That is nice work Colt. No wonder the friends want the belts.

Jim, where is the "ad in Books/Patterns/Periodicals/Videos." ?

If the edges of the leather is flattening then you are using the wrong groove. I made my burnishing tools out of dowel rod and bolts and nuts. They have different widths and/or depths in the grooves to take care of the different thickness of leather. I always start with the grove that forms the edges inward and may not touch the top of the edge. After burnishing (btw, mine is a converted grinder), the burnished edges should be more hard than the top. After some more burnishing, I will change to a wider groove that touches the whole rounded edge. Depending on the leather, you may have to sand at least once more. I dye almost all my edges after the water is evaporated. The dye contains agents that will dry out the leather quickly and provide better burnishing. And I may sand again after I dye. Again, a stiff, dry piece of leather will burnish a lot easier than a soft, supple, rather spongy piece of leather.

Patience and expertise. Heck of a combination. Very nice work.

Very nice work.

Just wanted to make sure. While I can appreciate the efficiency of a $5000.00 (that's on the cheap side) clicker press, a 20 ton shop press with pneumatic operation added is good enough.

Nope, not a bit.

What is the difference between a 20 ton shop press and a "clicker" press?