Red Cent

We do some canvas work including the boat stuff, motorcycle garment repair, and anything in the light to medium category. We have the "normal" fabric machines, and we have the Cobra 4. Kinda got the bases covered.

If you are molding in super detail, I can't say. If you are not, the A-1 and the Colt 1911 would be OK. The A-1 has a taller front sight than the Army 1911. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=colt+1911&qpvt=colt+1911&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=54FCD4E58FD7CAA6CC2A951EB32437DA5ED58EBB&selectedIndex=0 http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=439380536

The plate reads: Ultra Feed Zigzag M# LSZ-1

What ABC3 said.

The only way I know is Oxalic acid. Used to remove certain spots from leather and ready the surface for the dye. I would guess it won't do the job for a whole piece.

I'm gonna guess that ABC3 is having a difficult time making them look even on each side of the belt buckle. The drop from big to small is personal taste. I like the abrupt drop. Not a 90 but noticeable. I make a belt out of poster board with the exact dimensions of proposed belt. I punch holes and buckle it to the "favorite" (middle) hole. Then measure the distance from each side of the buckle.

yep.

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

Make the Polish In a glass quart canning jar, add 1 cup of oil (vegetable, coconut, olive, etc.) and add about 1/2 cup of beeswax--preferably grated or crumbled. Place the jar in a double pan of hot water over low heat and allow it to warm until the paraffin has melted. Remove the jar from the hot water and add 1/2 cup of vodka. Stir well and cover until ready to use. Apply the Polish Apply a dab of the soft polish to the floor with a clean, dry rag. Start with about 1/2 tsp. for a 2-foot-square area, and rub in a circular motion to spread the wax. Allow the wax to set for a few minutes before buffing it with a separate clean rag to bring it to a nice shine. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/way_5397378_homemade-floor-polish.html

Fuzzie, I would think you need a regular sewing needle. Round and sharp. The leather needles are made like a spear or chisel and that would slice the webbing. The needle for fabrics would pierce between the threads and not harm the stuff. Same size, different point.

I don't think I have ever read on this site about anyone having a Sailrite Sewing machine. We have one that does a super job on canvas and other like materials. It handles medium to light leather tasks with aplomb and runs well. Who has a Sailrite?

Another baptized Cobra 4 owner. I also released most all tension on the upper and set an 8 ounce tension on the bobbin. I can sew a single 5-6 ounce or a sandwich of an 8/9 and a 5/6 without adjustment. I can sew though a folded holster with four layers of leather of the 8-9 and 5-6 without adjustment. I use the # 25 "S" needle with 277 top and 207 bottom.

Blackey, it is good to see another "registered" cowboy over here. I am afraid I have missed your point in your last post.

I can make you a great western rig, tune and repair all your cowboy guns, but I have no idea what to get on that page. You must have 30-40 choices.

RiverDog, when I make the regular holsters, I tape a pencil to the top of the barrel. I have four or five pencils that are cut. I slope cut the pencil to fit the front sight and slope cut to end at the front of the frame.

LQ, the gun in his holster has high adjustable sights and should work well as snug as his holster is made. If that was a Model 10, then the strap should be behind the hammer.

Sorry RiverDog, just came back to the post. I make SASS holsters that are reverse sewn. The seam is in the front. My 3 screw Blackhawks never catch on anything and they have very tall front sights. http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/ Does this look familiar? Anyways, the seam itself should keep the sight from catching.

Hey Hillbilly. Opened the site. What do I buy?

Never tried the stuff. Immediate absorption from the leather I would assume. If the Carnuba is a sealer, wouldn't make sense to wet it first. Or would it?

This first one is not steel or rawhide lined. It has a full liner of 5/6 ounce. Cowbot Fast Draw does not allow steel lined rigs. It does allow rawhide. There holsters made for World Fast Draw made from fiberglass. The WFDA Assn. Is pretty lenient. They have what is called a fender rig. Not allowed in CFDA. CFDA is trying to stick as much as it can to emulate the "so called fastdraw" of the movies. However, if you watch a video of the CFDA in action, you begin to wonder about some of the rules. The silliest rule is the 20 degree forward cant. See if you can see what I mean in the video.

This works with my C4. Same machine. "Ok, here is something I just looked at I haven't fully tried it, but it should work, no removal of hooks is required: Remove the dustcap from the end of the arm, exposing the bobbin. Pull the thread out so that it hangs directly off the bobbin Pull the upper thread up and out of the way. Rotate the wheel so the needle buries to it's deepest point into the machine. In this position, the bobbin mouth should be facing about 7 o'clock, nearly straight down. Pull the bobbin thread out a foot at the 7 o'clock angle so that it is exiting the bobbin directly, and hang it over a smooth rod like a screw driver so that the thread can dangle towards the floor but still exits the bobbin in a straight line. Secure 8 oz to the end of the string. With the screw driver supporting the thread again, tug gently on the weight to see if it will start for the floor. If the weight pulled the thread out easily before you even tugged on it, then you need more bobbin tension, if it hangs there and won't drop even if more weight is added, then your have too much (which I would expect from your description of the knots on the bottom of your work).

BTW, what do I use for a cutter board? Sure I might look it up but the conversation ends. I use a large piece of poly board with my small 1 ton hand press and, within a few strokes, it will break. Even if I put a board underneath it.

Colt, that is an awesome thought. Dang. You can bet I will try it when I get it set up. Something about forest and trees comes to mind

Dry heat. Lots of sunshine (if you can) Rub the piece down in alcohol. Not the drinking kind. Quick process. Submerge in hot water (about to hot for your hand) for about 5 seconds. Lay out flat. Too hot will cause wrinkles/shrinkage. They make armor with very hot water and leather.