Red Cent

Whats the difference between C cream and C wax?

If your shoes have no scuffs, abrasions, or deep scratches, you can use neutral. Use same color polish to fix the shoes. Then you could use neutral but I wouldn't. I work with a lot of natural leather. I started showing a few pictures with tan and some dark color and, apparently, people like it. I use NF first and give it a nice tan. I use the neutral polish to bring out the grain and I finish with Leather Sheen.

Good work.

I sew the small outer strip to the main piece and then sew the liner on. The two screws at each end hold the belt holder and provide end stability.

I have been known to use "neutral" as a first finish.

120? Holy.......

Ouch!!! Rob, that would get me a blue gun plus a Coke. Nails and pegboard for me.

I have a Ruger P89 and a S&W/M&P and I would like to trade for a fs 1911. Add $20.00 to the 1911 and we have a deal. Or $30.00 each plus shipping however the cheapest way.

Thanks.

Speaking of blue guns, I have a Ruger P89 and a S&W/M&P I would like to trade/sell. I know there is a classified section but where would I list them? How about trading me a full size 1911 for both and a $20.00 bill?

My normal approach to the edges is sand and burnish with water and the drill press. I use edge dye next. The alcohol in the dye will harden the edge and the next burnishing makes a mirror. This some of the soft stuff and was difficult to get the mirror. However, they are shiny and rather smooth. Thanks everyone.

Thank you.

The rig, not me .

Mine are also hard as a brick. Even with this latest batch of leather. Doesn't matter. The guy who sat down in the driver's seat and blew a hole though the seat and floor holstering his Glock is the infamous poster child of a Glock in a leather holster. Yes, I think it is a marketing thing. You read some of the sites comments and it is if they only use leather no one else has and all the amenities are unattainable anywhere else. I am not criticizing. I am simply pointing out that it IS in the presentation.

Better look at the honing stones needed also.

A somewhat small attraction to the plastic holsters is safety. The gun market has evolved into Glock clones or at least striker fired and no safeties. As a devoted 1911 fan, I don't carry plastic. I have a G34 with a 2# trigger (really) that I have used in competition but carry? Huh uh. My EDC is a lw Colt Commander and it has a very light trigger. And two manually activated safeties. Before you can pull the trigger. A small strip of rawhide sewn in to the lip reinforcement area of the trigger guard can be marketed as being just as safe as plastic. It is all in the presentation, right?

http://www.toolsandsuppliesforless.net/store/index.php?cPath=310_312 I picked up a folding slotted carpet knife and some carbon treated utility blades at Lowes the other day. The slotted blade knife is very sharp and has 4 edges. It is not good for tight places and the top edge is unguarded. Looking around today, I found some with guards on top. May have to get one of those. Just sayin'.....

CB, I went through the C4 acclimated period and, after some experimentation, wound up (pun intended) with my sequence. The CB4500 uses the post on top to make tension in addition to the discs and pulleys. Admittedly, I am a personality A and always experiment. However, after I hit on the sequence, I have not changed it for months. It does beautifully.

They are the same machine. They use different "things" to create tension. The C4 has the hole for the post on top if you would like to use it. In past threads I have posted my method. I have almost zero tension on the discs and fairly light bobbin tension. I thread through the first eye, then straight down and through the next eye, and I don't go completely around the disc counter clockwise as I exit throught the next eye and things go normally after that. Put a lube box on you C4500 or your C4 and you will change the tension noticeably. Just different ways of getting a good stitch.

I Will take a shot at this. First a picture. Reading your question this holster came to mind. All the stitches in black are done while flat. And I tie all of these loose ends. The white done when folded and glued with back stitching for security. Ya gotta know where to start and end the black stitches so you can continue with the white stitches.

That belongs to a cowboy rig made for a pair of Colts. That is many rigs ago:).

The C4 comes with 277 thread top and bottom. I found 277 on top and 207 on bottom to work almost flawlessly. I sew two layers of 8-9 and two layers of 5-6 together all the time and my setup works great. I use a 25 needle. Some may say its too big and use a 23. Uh uh. I get great stitches and the holes ain't that big compared to the threads.

That style was the cat's meow in the 70s. The first picture is of a rig was made by Gorge M. Davis (recently deceased) of California for IPSC when it was in its infancy and before new rules came out. Made for me and serial numbered. The next picture I took a few years ago showing different holsters. The "Chapman High Ride" made by Bianchi and endorsed by Ray Chapman adhered to the new rules of that day. It is bottom line, second from the left. Top far right and the next three going left are holsters used today and yesterday. Third one from the right is Kydex and the remaining three are leather. All built for speed and a couple built for bull barreled revolvers. http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/Holsters018_zps1eebeccd.jpg I would say that those are Chicago screws with post binder extensions inside a metal tube. This method is popular in making kydex holsters. Male side of screw , extension which has male and female ends, and then the female side of the chicago screw. Small tube cut for aesthetics. I use the screw combination with black small diameter rubber tubing. And you are correct about the 1911s. They ruled back in the 70s. What with the birth of the compensator, they needed a lot of hot gas and the 38 Super took the lead.

I added the screw many years ago when I removed half of the sight track/welt in the front. Much quicker out of the holster.

Comparable to an old Smith & Wesson holster of the 70s. http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/SWholster001.jpg http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/SWholster002.jpg