Red Cent

I just moved out of the 12 X 24 into the 24 X 24 garage. "Course my move was about 20 yards. Looks good. And I agree with Cheifjason. Lordy, some people are so neat .

Very nice work.

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One of the best edges I have seen in my work comes from a drum dyed double shoulder. In this case it was a dark brown. The edge looks like a spit shine.

After shaping the edge with this and 220 grit: http://www.lowes.com/pd_470354-1069-12194_0__?productId=4747433&Ntt=sanding+blocks&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dsanding%2Bblocks&facetInfo= I finish with this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_432449-98-SSG-F-4PK_0__?productId=4741478&Ntt=sanding&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dsanding%26page%3D3&facetInfo= The sponge conforms with the round edge and takes off the "hair". Burnish with a little water first. The friction will lay every thing smooth. Then dye. Then burnish again. At this time, the only concern should be how to preserve the beautiful edge . I think I will try the dye the first thing. Sounds very logical.

I use TAP Weldwood gel. I will get the "line" if (1) I do not roll the two pieces of leather. I use a dough roller. (2) If I put the leather together before the glue is ready. I use a heat gun to hasten the process. And if I start working on the edge right after I roll it, even if the glue WAS ready for contact.. The "ditch" says you are not getting a flat squared off edge. I always square with a belt sander and/or a drum sander. The other problem occurs when you square the edges but leave one edge laying over the other. While looking square, the mated edges are not "equal". You have to sand until each piece compliments the other. After I water burnish with a drill press, I dye the edge. At this point, when the edge is a little susceptible to forming, take stick/dowel rod (really slick stick) and with a modicum of pressure you can do away with a very thin line if necessary. A good even sanded, curved edge will burnish to glassy smooth with just water. I do not use the paraffin, beeswax, glycerin bar soap any more unless really necessary.

Paraffin has been called bondo for the leather crafter. On difficult edges, I may rub on a generous layer of paraffin and apply a heat gun to have it absorbed. When burnishing, the paraffin will hold down most spots that created bumps before. I rarely use beeswax, paraffin, or glycerin soap bar any more.

36" metal ruler, a strip of wood 2"x1" (as long as the ruler), and two hand clamps.

Some of you hand stitchers should go over some procedures. As a machine stitcher, I glue and sew all parts except where the holster folds and meets. Or let the glue dry for a couple of days in the sun:).

I have stopped using the glycerin bar soap. And, in most cases, beeswax and/or parafin. On another post. After I cut and glue, I square all the edges with a band sander and/or a drum sander. I bevel then I sand with a hand held hook and loop rubber block with 220 grit. I finish with a sponge that is impregnated with fine grit. Sponge forms a great rounded edge and removes the "hair" from the edge. I apply water with my fingertips (sparingly) and burnish with my home made dowel rod burnishing tool on a drill press. At this point, I usually have a glass smooth edge. I use Fieblings brown and black edge dye. When fully dry, I burnish again. Another glass smooth surface. Then, normally, I apply an acrylic I bought at Zack White. It is a proprietary coating that he doesn't advertise. My little plastic bottle has #250 hand written. I also have a large bottle of #300 also hand written. Let it thoroughly dry, buff with a t-shirt and a good edge jumps out at you:). Sometimes, after the dye, some bumps may appear that are remedied with the sponge. Burnish again. I have gotten away from the glycerin bar soap, beeswax, and/or paraffin for the most part. If a certain piece is stuborn, I may resort to beeswax:).

I use veg tan double shoulder and stay away from the bottom side. I understand that the back is the better, consistent cut for belts.

Thank you.

After I cut and glue, I square all the edges with a band sander and/or a drum sander. I bevel then I sand with a hand held hook and loop rubber block with 220 grit. I finish with a sponge that is impregnated with fine grit. Sponge forms a great rounded edge and removes the "hair" from the edge. I apply water with my fingertips (sparingly) and burnish with my home made dowel rod burnishing tool on a drill press. At this point, I usually have a glass smooth edge. I use Fieblings brown and black edge dye. When fully dry, I burnish again. Another glass smooth surface. Then, normally, I apply an acrylic I bought at Zack White. It is a proprietary coating that he doesn't advertise. My little plastic bottle has #250 hand written. I also have a large bottle of #300 also hand written. Let it thoroughly dry, buff with a t-shirt and a good edge jumps out at you:). Sometimes, after the dye, some bumps may appear that are remedied with the sponge. Burnish again. I have gotten away from the glycerin bar soap, beeswax, and/or paraffin for the most part. If a certain piece is stuborn, I may resort to beeswax:).

Looks good to me.

Thank you.

It is a proprietary product. You may have to make contact. A product I use often if an acceptable edge is accomplished is Fieblings brown or black edge enamel. It has the consistency of a spirit dye but goes on well and leaves a great finish. I apologize for the superfluous information.

"...piece off leather about 3/4 inch thick that forces the shells away from the body." That is probably totally illegal. Still looks good.

What tha!!! The site refused my post and told me I couldn't do that a few times. I tried one more time, took a potty break, and came back to this. Sheezz! Well anyway, the design just came to me. Saves inside of coats and jackets. I used to destroy the inside of my suit coat. That Commander and a National Match tore holes until I deburred the sights. One could mold the outside "ear" to lay in closer and not much printing would be seen. Thanks about the burnishing. I take pride in a good edge.

Hey Longtooth. Looks great. either a sxs shooter or he pulls two at a time. My first reaction is the angled loops legal but then they probably are. Recently, there was some hullaboo about declaring a shotgun belt I have competed with for 14 years illegal. Is that a true slide, or is it attached to a belt?

I am for a good sanding to get a rounded edge and a smooth edge. I sand with a rubber handled hook and loop block with 220 and finish with 400. I discovered some soft dense synthetic sponges impregnated with fine grit in the shop. Between the fine grit and the foam further enhancing a rounded edge, it takes very little time. Barely wetting the edge, I burnish. Like glass. I use black or brown edge dye (Fieblings). After the dye dries, burnish. Like glassier:). Then I apply an acrylic I got from Zack White. Have no idea of the name. Its called #250. Works great. Using the vinagroon for the edge, the leather would have to be black. That stuff goes anywhere/everywhere.

Might be cool for about half a mile. Then thoughts of chest holster starts dancing through the head. Very good work Chief.

I have a bottle of it but I have not used it much. It does dry bright and shiny. It is very thick (think cold syrup) and the dauber comes out LOADED with the stuff. Better to snip the dauber off and use a clean cheap one each time. I think it will be a personal preference.

What??!!