Red Cent

TreeReaper pointed out something important. I use a machine but I don't think any glued edged is not sewed by me. 'Course with the other problems, it would have happened anyway. I also sew everything (except the welt area. And I don't use welts.) and fold afterwards.

methanol.

The Forstner bit cuts a very, very neat hole in the leather because of its construction. The cutting wings slice the leather neatly and then the drill bit takes the rest away. Use a piece of hardwood to place the leather and the other end of the hole will be just as nice.

Research shows that "rubbing alcohol" is ethanol. "Alcohol" is a term used these days that cover a broad spectrum of alcohols. Denatured alcohol is ethanol/alcohol with additives. There are a number of additives combined with alcohol to produce vomiting, retching, or other action that dissuade people from drinking the alcohol. Why do you use denatured alcohol for thinning dyes or cleaning tools? Unless I am missing something, why buy it?

I used to hole punch the ends and cut the middle out. Now I do the same thing but I use a Forstner bit to drill a hole. Either TreeReaper or Cyberthrasher mentioned the bit on here. Cuts a beautiful hole. Then I cut out the middle stuff. Very little edgework needed after it is cut.

Hmmmm, I was thinking I have some old screwdrivers in the garage.

Never was a dye per se, but rather a heavily applied colored neatsfoot oil - back in the ole days when you first got a GL holster or other gear fro them, you had to wrap it in paper towels or absorbent cloth and change the wrap a couple of times to sop up the excess oil or it would stain your clothes. The GL oil formula was a proprietary one (you used to be able to buy it) but a mix of non-greasy neatsfoot oil and either the oil darkening liquid from Weaver Leather (IMO it comes closest to the GL oil in color) or you can make a mix of spirit dye (i.e. Fiebings) in dark brown, walnut, or mahogany (or a mix) and the neatsfoot oil until you get a close match. When mixing oil with the Fiebings mixing it in an old blender works best - just rev it up each time you use it to make sure it's well mixed. You can also tweak the oil darkening liquid with dye, but I've found if you sun tan your leather after dying for a couple of days this gets just right. I've owned and repaired a bunch of GL leather over the years and even though I make my own I still have soft spot for the Gl goods since it was who made my first holster way back in 1962. Here's an example of GL Holster in good condition so those he may not know what we are talking about can see - note it's really a med/dark brown with just a hint of red which the sun tan will give you... http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/turnerriver/DSC_0011-4.jpg .......................Courtesy of Chuck Burrows, Member of Cas City.

The holster was made for my youngest boy for field carry. It has a slight competition slant. The holster, as you can see in this picture has a "normal" back piece as in a western or speed rig.

Cool. I won't have to change the pattern much.

If the bottom was wet/damp that may be the problem. The thread is cutting through the leather. The 25 needle will leave a big hole but they won't touch.

Trial and error. I used to sand and sand. Now I take a square edge and do a neat bevel. At this point I take dauber and barely wet the edge. Too much water and you will deform the straight edge. It doesn't matter how many layers of leather as long as you have a burnisher with a groove that is only slightly rounded so that the width of the leather will almost touch or touch on the flat edge of the leather. I have a hand made burnisher that has 3 grooves. The first fits a width of 8-9 + 3-4. The next 8-9 ounce single layer and the next 3-4 ounce single layer. I burnish the leather to a rounded edge to the edge of the bevel. I oil, then dye, then burnish again (after they dry) with 50-50 beeswax paraffin. The I apply an acrylic then coat everything with M&P. Buff with an old T shirt and this gives me a good edge. After the first burnish, I may touch up an area or two with 400 sandpaper. I no longer use the pure paraffin or the glycerin, the liquid saddle soap or saddle soap.

Is that English ? I am afraid the terminology is over my head:).

Same sizes I use. That would make me think leather is the problem. First try a 24 just in case.

I use polyester in my Cobra 4. Black and white and no trouble. Back when I was using nylon, I was having some stitching problems but I am not sure I can blame the problems on the thread. I did some radical adjustments on the tension and now no problems other the loose screw behind the wheel. What are you sewing?

My swag would be the needle is too big. The needle and/or the thread is cutting too much leather on the bottom. Tension looks good. How many stitches to the inch?

Dwight, please explain the vault and how you will hang the hides.

Thanks folks. Everybody is happy.

Here are some thoughts. First, daubing just a touch of water on the edge of a beveled and unsanded edge will produce a mirror like finish with a motorized burnishing tool.. But.....achieving the pictured edge with the uniformity displayed is awesome. There is a "sweet spot" with the application of water/liquid in the beginning that will provide even edges. Again, I am using a motorized burnisher. One can take a piece of leather, as in the picture, and wet it thoroughly, and let it dry on a flat surface. It will become hard and you can come close to the picture with extreme care. I am constantly amazed with leather work and the abilities that other possess.

I have a request from a fellow cowboy and leatherworker to find an answer to the following: "I would like to know how to obtain the deep reddish brown finish known as walnut oil that was used on Lawrence Leather Goods years ago and is currently used by Triple K." Can anyone help me help another leatherworker?

Hey, that's not a brag. That is about 1/2 size a regular rig and it looks so neat (as in cool) . I cringe at the adjective "cute".

Natural.

Like father, like son. This a reverse copy of Dad's rig. Waist 24 1/2".

In making such a pouch and minimizing leather and weight, you can sew that using the left foot that rides on the edge of the leather and use the presser foot as your guide.

When burnishing leather that thin, apply water sparingly on the edge. Experience shows that wet leather with pressure applied tends to deform leather:). That edge calls for a pulley shaped burnisher.

Very nice. Like the fringe.