Vaalpens, I have to ask the question. Apparently you don't bevel and sand your edges. And it looks like you do not burnish much. No agenda and no criticism. Just because or what?
Ooops!! neat holster. I also like the medal. Sets the holster off and the color really makes it pop.
OK. I use an old vacuum sealer that we used to use for leftovers and such. 5 minutes and I have 98% molded piece of leather. I push and shove on the leather a little bit, then remove the gun.
The difference is that I build "half" pancake holsters and mold the front piece only.
Triage, I recently searched for a mold for a 625 4". I wound up using my M29 6 1/2". Life huh?
http://www.shop.bunk...-Barrel-929.htm
This is the only N (?) frame I could find.
Tomorrow will be two weeks from the time I ordered from The Blue Gun Store. Discovered the store is about 2 hours south of me in Albermarle.
Talked to Kurt Bauer, general manager for Ring's, and opened an account there. Retail is now $48.00 plus shipping. He told me that Ring's is a family owned business and they decided not to hire on extra people to catch up with the shortage and then lay them off. Did it in the past and they don't like the results.
The P89 seems to be a dinosaur. Shouldn't have taken the order but didn't know better. Life.
The Blue Gun Store, a division of RMB leather is back ordered big time. Other places are charging$10.00 or more over the price of the store.
Where do you get your blue/training guns? I need three pretty bad. S&W M&P 9 4.25", a P89, and a N frame 4".
IMO, you will need two machines. Unless you decide to produce light weight leather products or heavy weight products. I would heartily reccomend the Cobra 4 for the heavy stuff. I recently bought a SailRite for lightweight work. It will sew easily through six layers of canvas.
Thanks.
I know we can post questions. I believe it will lead to more specific questions and answers. I can remember trying to understand the language. Some one posted about a bouble beveler. I thought it was tool that did both edges at the same time:).I looked it up. Good 'ol internet. Thanks to Gore.
You may have picked up the WeldWood Gel. Yep, I tried it. It has it place but not for relatively small pieces of leather. Get the WeldWood Original. I use the plastic bottles like the Ketchup bottle in a restaurant. Seal it tight and try to keep it full. When the bottle gets low it starts to gel a little also. I use scrap leather to smear the glue.
I have enjoyed this site tremendously. Loads of information and very helpful people.
Is it proper to list the "stuff" you use to produce your product? Leather make, section, weight. The finishes. And anything else that would be unique for the product. I would think this would evoke some experienced answers and inexperienced question.
Whadda ya think?
This the first I came across for show and tell. Might not be the best. But I think you should spring for something like this. I started using the dauber and was very frustrated. Airbrushing gives you SO much control.
http://www.eastwood.com/3-airbrushes-and-compressor-kit.html
Some of the others may be able to suggest a better kit.