Red Cent

It does. Thanks.

Thanks Tallhorse and welcome. Hi, my name is Red and I am a leather maker addict. Camano, where did you get the 9?

I sent an inquiry to Rings. I have a request to make a hybrid for the above handgun. Can't find listing. Will the S&W M&P 40 work? The 9 has a thumb safety but I can work with the 40 if it is the same size.

awwwww shucks.

Hey hillbilly. Probably one thing is to apply neatsfoot oil. Don't know what you have available or able to run down to the store and get. The oil can be picked up from Walmart. After oiling let the strips bask in the sun for a while. No sun?. Flood lamps then. A couple of coats wouldn't hurt. No plain water expecially hot. Flexing the strips after oiling will assist the leather in soaking up the oil. Where im WV? http://skidmores.com/

Darthbubbles, it occurs to me that a thin piece of plastic placed above and below the leather would work with the tool. It also occurs to me the cheapest would be pieces of plastic milk jugs or the like. If you have a drill press (wouldn't cost too much) then Reaper's idea is good. Matter of fact I intend to pick up some bits. Harbor Freight has them cheap. The drill presses run about $70.00. http://www.harborfre...peed-60238.html Matter of fact, you could place the chisel in the drill press and use the drill press (turned off) to punch the holes with the chisel for the thick stuff. Ideas. Every one has them.............

Looks good.

Chief, you have a few cowboy clubs down in that part of the country. I would think some would want to buy a belt or two.

I was edgekoting the edge of a piece of leather and had an oh..........moment. I hastily looked for a rag, but alas, too late. I picked a large eraser Deb had given me and it removed the stuff. And the eraser works on glue. http://shop.mackite.com/eraser-for-really-big-mistakes/

Vaalpens, I don't think those rivets do more than holde the band. I don't believe they are in the holster. Are they?

I didn't know that. Every day.........

Apparently the glue is holding the holster togther at the trigger guard. Looks good, but please explain the absent stitch line. I would like to see a "back" picture.

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I sew it flat. I line my holsters so the outside strip goes along for the ride.

I have had a batch going for months. "...... build up a hard oxidized layer...." That is new to me. I keep my brew in a plastic drywall bucket with lid. Interesting.

No way I would have borrowed the money to get all my stuff. I would not want to work under that pressure. I have sold a few at bargain prices to friends and we (wife) are putting together a website. There seems to be a few guys that are on a forum or two awaiting the website. I picked up a Sailrite sewing machine and I am entering the world of canvas and other material like it. Seems there are boat owners out there that need covers fixed. And awnings. And........

If you are wearing a IWB and it collapses you probably just got through with a gunfight. I have a couple of IWB "summer specials" that was made by some top leather crafters in the 70s and 80s and they are made with 4-5 ounce leather. Maybe 6-7 ounce. I do not care for the "assisted opening" in an IWB. Too much bulk for me. I carry IWB appendix style so it is real easy to reholster. But I have never had to reholster.

NeonKat, we need pictures, lots and lots of pictures.

Yes it will. The semi-auto holster can be made with 4-5 ounce leather that makes it easier. Mold the leather with warm water and when it drys it will be stiff. Gets stiffer if you dye the leather.The "trick" is to cut the holster so it looks like you are not using the holster backwards:). This style really works for SASS competitors. Access to the grip and trigger guard for certain competitors means a lot. I have a number of rigs by different makers hanging on the wall but I could not get them to make a reverse holster. As you can see, the trigger guard is prominently presented and the sight track is built in. Additionally, it provides an automatic cut from the front to provide a quick draw. Roll the top edges out and you have a big bucket to facilitate a re-holster, a unique move in SASS competition.

Do a reverse holster .

Chris B, from my experience it will depend upon the liner. The belt was cut, glued to liner, edge squared with drum sander, edge beveled, hand sanded, applied Fieblings saddle soap, burnished with a wheel with canvas soaked saddle soap, dyed, hand buffed, rubbed parafin on the edge, burnished with grooved dowel rod. Hand buffed and finish applied to edge. The holster back was cut, edged squared, beveled, and the rest. Glued the thin skin liner, carefully cut off excess, hand sanded to remove and true up skin. Sewed and hand buffed.

" Put tons of work into something and ask a low price, people will think it's cheap and not want it. Ask too much and you never sell it, unless you build a reputation that justifies that price." Amen to what Chief said. A retired State Police and a cowboy buddy told me that you are going to discover your friends want "their" price and will snort at a HALFWAY reasonable price. He is a handstitcher and makes his and his wife's holster. Yup. Been around leather for most of my life. Never set foot in a shop. Didn't realize all the work and time involved in "finishing" a rig. Love it though.

Retired and too much time. The money I have in a 12' X 24' and a Cobra 4 and a bunch of other stuff, leather......Probably won't see a true profit until 2025.......Wait! I won't liv..................

Question. Are you using the cast iron pulley as a burnisher? It occurred to me that I have a keyless chuck in the garage that will fit my 3/8-24. One more and I could chuck all day long. Burnisher on one end and sanding drum on the other. Anyway, pulley?

Neatsfoot oil is a "finish" to me. Done sparingly and with the help of the sun, it produces some really nice colors. It really looks good on some leather that has marks or ripples that are not physical but visual or a really mellow color on unblemished leather. I use Leather Sheen, Mop & Glo, and others.