Red Cent

Lets say we did what we always do. That is burnish, saddle soap, bar glycerin, parafin, burnish, burnish, and burnish. Then I sew. Then I bend a lined and skived holster in place and sew it up. If I take that beautiful smooth shiny edge, even after a few days, and wet it down with the holster, it ain't gonna come out right. I do not wet form. I may spray some water on the liner and slowly work the gun in the holster. Now a hybrid or a pancake is different. Maybe an Avenger.

A wart hogger, huh? Age is starting to take its toll. Was very active from 2000-2007. I tried to get these made back when so I decided to start making my own. And thank you.

I found Dwight's post on rigging the Vpump. Interesting setup. Seems to be a popular item here. I used the food sealer machine to do this. I didn't do any more forming after I pulled it from the bag and let it dry. I need to check on the Vpump some more.

Will do.

I compete in SASS and I am a gamer. Always legal but not period correct. That is another discussion. Built this rig for a SASS shooter. Remember, speed and ease of access is paramount.

OK, explain the dye/stressed/old look. Is the rig single layer? Handsewn? Looks good and different.

This is new to me. I am using a vacuum for leftovers and it works kinda decent. I guess the Vpump works a lot better. If I buy the Vpump, what else do I need besides oil. Hoses. Connectors. Where do you get the bags?

Well, if it costs over $300.00 I would say the leather looks cheap. But looking at it, it looks damn good! Those who purchase such a product will not say "Dang, if the leather wasn't so cheap, I......". Get 'er done!!

No, I have and use the same dye and I don't get the purple stuff. My brown Edge Kote looks like brown liquid shoe polish until it dries. Goes almost clear. Buff after it is good and dry and it looks great.

The rafter square will hold the leather with the lip of the square as you push against the cutting blade. I also use these: http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/clamps/hand-clamps with the aluminum cork ruler to cut straight lines. I use a utility knife without intending to cut all the way through the leather on the first pass. Then it is easy to follow the cut for another pass.

Found an old post. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23047

It occurs to me that the lined (2 ply) holsters are very stiff and with a 1 3/4 to 3" gunbelt that is also 2 ply, the holster will stay put without a lot of help. Anything less than 8-9 ounce will be soft and pliable and would be a little floppy. Especially without a good stiff gunbelt.

If you are making modern type cowboy holsters, there is another way. My holsters are 2 ply. I punch holes in the outer and capture chicago screws between the leather. I use Weldwood Cement to glue the leather together and put a little bit around the screw caps. The back flap is integral with the holster and two holes are punched in it also. The male chicago screw is tightened down. You can see one of the screws on the bottom of the back flap. There is another one just below the belt. That keeps the holster in one place. In cowboy competition, you don't want to keep positioning the holsters. Some cowboys punch a hole in their belt and in the back flap and attach by a chicago screw. Hope I explained the process. The second picture also has the captured chicgo screws. Some holster makers (Kirkpatrick) sew a leather block to the inside of the backflap just below the belt line.

It is for a customer. I have made some prototype reverse sewn holsters and they worked out. Great speed rig for SASS. Good (just enough) retention.And a built in sight track for all sights. Thank you.

I have learned to sand the edge square with a belt or drum sander. This will even the edges and remove excess glue (to the edge). Then I bevel. I use a sanding block with loop and hook paper. http://www.lowes.com...block= 120 grit to even the rounded edge, 220 to smooth. I do not use the soap bar. It stains the leather. I use a piece of thin felt to wet and apply saddle soap. Burnish. Dye. Burnish. Rub parafin on edge and melt with heat gun. Rub parafin on edge and burnish. Buff with soft cloth. Edge kote. Clear finish. Buff. Of course, allow sufficient drying time for each step.

Interesting to build.

I do the burnishing before I sew the pieces. The piece, in my opinion, can be placed anywhere. When one reholsters in an OWB, if you mold the holster for strength, you do not need the "brace".

Is the reason for not doing a horzontal shoulder holster the danger or the difficulty?

The only thing I know to screw up neats foot is putting it on too thin and not get full coverage.

Filtering is OK but I have a brew that has not been filtered. Works just as good. After a couple more weeks, drop in another steel wool pad. There is a point that the pads will not dissolve/rust away. Then, maybe, filter. Yes, baking soda. Just remember, if you get it on your hands and absent mindely touch some other leather, instant fingerprints that are better than the ones the police produce.

Musta took all the marks off that did not look like a stagecoach or horses.

http://sassnet.com/clubs/Clubs_list.php?state=Georgia Click on a state. http://sassnet.com/clubs/index.php

Is that a joke?

A lined belt that will equal about 14-16 ounces is the thing for concealed carry. If not, alined belt totaling 10-12 ounces is sturdy and looks very good stitched properly. Single layer dress/casual belt are good. I have used Welwood for months and the other day it came to me - heat gun. And I read it here somewhere later that day. You use a heat gun on Wledwood to accelerate drying and you better be lined up when you put 'em together. And a rolling pin.

Tallhorse, I have been carrying a Colt Commander LW for about 40 years. I have a Glock 34 with the Ghost Rocket kit but ain't nothin' like a tuned 1911 trigger. Too old to change. Kinda like around the late 50s and early 60s. I could tell you the make of the car if I could see their tail lights 100 yards away. Handguns are kinda the same. Plastic...ugh . Thanks guys.