Red Cent

OUTSTANDING.

Great combination. Well done.

There are a number of dealers who produce the mold gun. Duncans carries an "old model Vaquero" that is a tad larger in frame an cylinder size than the New Model Vaquero, Colts and Colt Clones. The OM Vaquero can be used for all of them. Some places carry the Colt Single action . If you buy a NM Vaquero mold gun, it will handle the Ubertis, Colts, Piettas, and any one that is the same as a SAA Colt.

For those of us who have difficulty completing such a draw, the back of the hand draw is much more ergonomic. The most important challenge is to make it comfortable. A good sweat guard protecting the hammer at all times would be essential. 'Course, with the striker fired guns these days, that should be easy.

This is a very good helper for the gunfighter stitch. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=half+circle+quilting+rulers&view=detailv2&&&id=9589BB06982FDF9E1B747001265D550698AAFA78&selectedIndex=0&ccid=41jbMhAr&simid=608054326129920138&thid=JN.BOM7KcTXi%2fNKKHaRjUZ5Jw&ajaxhist=0

I dug up an old sturdy paint scraper, cut the blade at the length that would provide a 1 3/4" cut and sharpened it razor sharp. One ton hand press puts two easy holes and the stubby paint scraper cuts full length between the holes with a smack. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-in-Stiff-Paint-Scraper-DSX3S/202038684

http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/product/table-top-lace-cutter-3112-00.aspx

This is a good investment. At least it works very well for me. I practically saturate the leather and drape the leather over the mold gun or a protected real one. When you hit the start button, help the leather to stay close to the gun so you can get some good angles on the leather and makes for tight stitching. The leather will remain wet but the shape will form. Leave the bag closed for an hour or so. Remove the leather and gun and leave the leather on the gun. When out side is somewhat dry, remove gun and let dry. If sunlight is available at this time, ya got it made. http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-FM2000-000-Vacuum-Sealing-System/dp/B00LUGK5XA/ref=lp_1090768_1_10?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1429496187&sr=1-10

Red Bear Haraldsson, you gonna try some reverse sewn holsters?

Sent a few out. This is a couple of rigs.

Beautiful work. I have hunted a number of things all over this country. I have killed them with rifle, pistol, and bow. But I have not "pulled the trigger" on an animal for over twenty years. One has the right to hunt and I will back you. However, I do not want to turn this site into a photo gallery of all things killed however sporting it may be.

Get this: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-bench-grinder-39797.html Take off the stuff and get two of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_83456-1074-31037MP_0__?productId=1209709&Ntt=keyless+drill+chuck&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dkeyless%2Bdrill%2Bchuck&facetInfo= I make my burnishers.

The holster looks good. Now lets talk about taking pictures...........

BTW, this guy is known for his rawhide uses. He built these. Those dark strips top and bottom are rawhide. However, they are on the outside of the holsters. http://www.rodkiblersaddlery.com/

BPM, if you are making holsters for a member of the Cowboy Fast Draw Association, we are not allowed to use metal for lining. I hate making metal liners and I don't like rawhide. So......I use an 8-9 for the outer and 6-7 for the liner. Make the holster as usual, adhering to the rules, wet form, and bake it in the oven. 170 is low as I can go for about 20 minutes. Then, I let it sunbathe if the sun is out. Then a heat lamp. As you know, rock hard. Most CFDA members learn very quickly, do not cause outside pressure on the holster. Store it carefully and transport it carefully.

If I deem it a popular blue gun, I will buy it from proceeds. If it is one that I might make two more in a lifetime, customer buys the mold gun and he can keep it. Or we may deal and I keep the blue gun. Or he brings me his gun.

Very nice. Innovative stitching also. Gotta keep that in mind.

http://www.cimarron-firearms.com/gun-leather/holsters/1860-army-holster-8-in-ghar.html This is a reproduction of a holster circa 1860. Hollywood begat the evolution of the holster. A buscadero rig is the invention of Hollywood. http://www.mernickleholsters.com/b_western/bw_b2009/bw_s2009.html Then along came Clint Eastwood. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=clint+eastwood+roughout&qpvt=clint+eastwood+roughout&qpvt=clint+eastwood+roughout&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=91D3482686AD7CC4B260035B91B489465E69F28E&selectedIndex=49 SASS is R&D for holster makers. They come up with innovations just as NASCAR. The result is a search for speed and coolness. Steve McQueen pushed the speed rig further into the American people. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=steve+mcqueen+holster&qpvt=steve+mcqueen+holster&qpvt=steve+mcqueen+holster&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=87422A3167DABD9F28E32850DB223564E13F72D5&selectedIndex=138 In SASS, we draw fast but we are not fast draw. If some one puts a hole in the ground 3 feet in front of his/her feet, they get a stage DQ. I have never accomplished this but some do. This is SASS. friend and fellow SASS shooter from Michigan. This is a new world record and not a normal stage shot in SASS. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=deuce+stevens&FORM=VIRE1#view=detail&mid=AC5B41C5085F7522AD82AC5B41C5085F7522AD82 This is a SASS stage with Deuce. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8DESEWH_QQ The walk and draw craze added to the mix. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=walk+and+draw+rigs+of+the+1950s&qpvt=walk+and+draw+rigs+of+the+1950's&qpvt=walk+and+draw+rigs+of+the+1950's&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=2FE037BD975F4C37B48BE7727A497C4284EA88BF&selectedIndex=25 "Current Modern Technique calls for keeping the Trigger Finger out of the Guard and off the Trigger until the Sights are aligned with the Target and one has reached the decision to Shoot." This is taught to those who carry semi-autos. This does not apply to double action revolvers and single action revolvers. At least, it shouldn't. And it should not apply to those who carry a DA/DA pistol such as the 39 (I have the 39 and the 59).

Ain't no way I am/will not/be putting 80 hours a week into this endeavor. You have a great problem. Work out the wazoo. I think it is simply what do you want out of the "business". Anxious part of a business: hire help and hope traffic continues. 'Course you can always fire the help:)

Very nice. Lot of work into that one. How do you get the measurements for one of those?

I also drop a drop of liquid (not gel) glue but only on dark leather. Light leather or suede is a no-no for me. Looks bad no matter what. I use a small hand roller to flatten out the area after wiping off any excess glue spot. Then I clean up anything left with a grill lighter.

I use the Lexol Leather cleaner (soap). Hesitant to use regular liquid soap on the leather.

Looks easy from here. Kinda pricey. Figure out a way to put the tools on the end of a SawsAll, hook up a rheostat and ya got 'er.

Cleanview, may I suggest you buy this (or something like it). http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Tools/Tools---Accessories/All-Product-Categories_147/Hand-Held-Roller_173.aspx I spray the back of the belt with water that has a drop or two of Lexol after I finish sewing and before I seal. Then I use the roller to flatten the stitches.

Depends on the use of the belt and customer preference. My gun belts are usually two strips of 8-9 ounce. To get rid of the un-necessary bulk, stop the bottom layer at the tip of the fold of the top layer. The piece for the buckle. Sand the abrupt edge of the second layer down unless you make it meet the folded down end. Skive the heck out of the top layer in the buckle bend area. My SASS gun belts are made from one piece 8-9 ounce and one piece 4-5 ounce. Upon request, a final liner of hideback(suede) in 3-4 ounce can be added to the inside.