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MuddyClearWaters

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Everything posted by MuddyClearWaters

  1. PM me. Your description seems pretty simple I'm surprised no one in your local area will work with you.Carson
  2. Thanks I've been using 138 which i'm discovering is too thick for the two machines i have. I'm getting them all dialed in with 92. and 69. Hope to get another machine for #138.
  3. I have a singer 110W124 and I'm using diamond point needles. I'm trying to find out if there is a better type of needle point or a separate technique I don't know to make the bobbin side of my stitches look much cleaner and more like top side with less leather damage and exit wound looking holes? I'm going to be making a bunch of small cases and I want the stitch to look great on both sides.. Thanks
  4. I've been nothing but happy with my SewPRo 500GR. I purchased from toledo. Was a little under 200 with shipping. Worth every penny.
  5. UPDATE: So I've done a number of tests on a bunch of different needles. None of the new needles have been the right length. I found an older needle in my box that came on my Singer 52W19. It's a Singer 25/20 and this needle seems to work pretty well. It's not perfect but it works pretty well. Anyone know this needle size and maybe what a modern replacement is for it? On another note. I'm wondering if there is a technique or needle shape that will help make the exit hole on the bobbin side a little more finished looking. I'm going to be doing production on some leather cases and I want both sides to nice and clean. Right now the back side has quite the exit hole.
  6. I've been buying Garrett Leather's woven tubulars for a while and they are just too expensive. Is there anyone on here that might have suggestions on tracking down their Italian manufacturer? Has anyone here had experience hunting for suppliers in Italy? Or is there a manufacturer in north america that makes something similar?
  7. ok. so I've now tried two sizes of 20's both worked so so. I was able to jerry rig a timing test by dropping the needle down in the holder which made them work a bit better but still not enough. Strange because the needles are identical in length and shapes to my 22 that work perfect. I'm still at a loss.
  8. Ok. so I did another inspection. There defiantly was some burring on the inside of the hook. That seems to have solved the bobbin problem. I can now sew fine with 138 top 92 bottom. I tried the 21 needles, no go, I have I don't have 20 -19 so I'll have to pick some up.
  9. It's not shredding the 138 on the top actually. it's only shredding the bobbin thread then. My hook timing appears to be Right on the money. I should also point out it sews way better through thicker leather meaning 1.5mm-2mm is about the thickest I sew. sometimes 5-6mm and it works perfect. Anything sub 1.5mm I either have the needle shredding problem or the bobbin shredding problem.
  10. I'll try 20. I have those. Another note. It also has all the problems above if I use #138 top thread but use #92 on the bobbin. I've used a bunch of different colors of 92 but they are all from the same supplier and they work some barley acceptable to terrible. The 138 is from different places and all works.
  11. So I have a singer 110W124 I use it every day for my work. I started on it using almost exclusively #138 top and bobbin thread with #22 needle and for the last two years has worked flawlessly. I've now started using #92 thread on this machine with a #18 needle. The problems seem to have started here. When I use the thinner thread it sews maybe 3-4 inches before the top thread becomes totally shredded. It unravels into individual strands. Another problem is the thread will jump sides on the needle causing a knot on the needle. The bottom bobbin thread also routinely pulls the top through and catches on the hook. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is this a problem with timing? With thread tension? Needle size? I really don't want to start tweaking my my machine just yet... Carson.
  12. Hi, everyone. I have a crocodile hide that my mother amazingly found at a garage sale for $20. I was previously living in Los Angeles close to the water and this hide had stayed in pretty nice shape. It was flat and in very nice condition. I've recently moved to Austin and the weather change has started making it wrinkle in places now. I'm wondering what is the proper method of storing this thing for the long term in the climate here? Should I have it in plastic? rolled up? hanging? I want to use this eventually for a few projects but I'm pondering my time I don't want it to get unusable.
  13. I'm also in need of a Brogue punch. I to lots of this type of work.
  14. I can't stress the importance of YouTube. I'm only just getting on it. My GF worked at SPIN MEDIA making the horrible internet celebrity gossip news. YouTube is such a powerful advertising tool as well as a great way to make a little extra cash. You can get paid per view, just be careful you don't use music you don't have the rights too, or they get all your cash!
  15. I found this extensive list of italian suppliers. http://www.shoeinfonet.com/machinery/multi%20mach/EU/multi%20mach_it.htm Perhaps someone there will have one? Probably the best place to look?
  16. Thanks. Any idea on makers, or technical names? I would like to keep a look out. It's something that takes a lot of time in my projects and if I could find one it would be a good investment.
  17. I'm wondering what this machine is called. It's basically a walking foot hole punch machine that makes an alternating dot pattern. It's a dream for now, eventually I must have one. skip to 1:32
  18. Thanks for the reply's everyone! Shoot me an email. I'll make you a deal. lehsplymfg@gmail.com Carson.
  19. Hi everyone. I've been just creeping on here for a while, I'm going to try and log on more as an active user. I wanted to share my most recent work. I make custom leather bike saddles and I'm starting out on my own as of this month after three years of part time work. You can see some more pictures at my site
  20. So I've consulted the manual for this machine. It says the timing should be adjusted as such. After the needle bar has traveled all the way down. Raise it 3/16" or to the indicator mark on the needle bar (there is no mark on my machine) then the bobbin hook should be centered on the eyelet of the needle 1/16" above. This is how the Left needle and bobbin are spaced and it works fine about 95% of the time. I've attempted to match the same timing and have got them in dam near identical yet they still don't work. I've pushed the right bobbin so close to the needle that in the full down position it's resting against the side of the lower portion of the bobbin. Any further away It won't grab the thread. Any closer and the bobbin case just pushes the needles over and farther away from the hook. Another note I might point out is the right bobbin is a little more worn than the other, the hook is dulled slightly, I don't know if thats a critical issue. I would assume no since It worked fine in the 1/8" setting.
  21. I have a Singer 52W19 post bed Twin needle with wheel foot. I bought it with 3/16 spacing. I changed it to 1/8th successfully. I've now got lost trying to change it back. It's been a nightmare so far. I've sunk 10 hours into trying to get the right bobbin to work. I've got it to work a few times on thicker harder leathers I have (5oz). However as soon as I switch to something thinner 2-3oz the right side goes to shit. If anyone has any experience timing and adjusting the bobbins on these machines, It would keep me from throwing it out out the window. Thanks Carson
  22. Looking for a bell knife skiver machine. I'm on a budget. If anyone has anything please let me know.
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