cmantz

From what I understand, it came from the art instructors. They would take their students to the art museums and sit them in front of the originals and tell them to copy it but to change it at least 20% so it couldn't never be confused. Not sure how true that is but that is what I heard.

In my main business (screen printing/embroidery/etc), I so often hear people say "if you change it 20% you are fine", but that is not true. If it looks close enough to be confused as the original, than it is considered infringement..

Thank you! I guess I should have done a search first

What is the difference between Neatsfoot Oil Compound and 100% pure neatsfoot oil?

yeah...definitely on this I think I will just use NFO. I tried a scrap where I stamped it and then tried to apply pro oil dye with sponge. Didn't work out. Too dark on top but no color in the stamped areas. I have also played with the Fiebings Antique stain but didn't want that look. I know the veg tan with darken over time but trying to get somewhat close on a headstall to an existing breast collar....this is my first attempt at stamping a BW and my first attempt at using veg tan. All the other stuff I have done has been with colored leather and overlays and such. It doesn't help that I way UNDERPRICED this job! Ok....just to clarify. I stamp the BW and then oil. let dry and apply something like resolene or leather sheen, correct? Should I do that to all the piece before I actually construct the headstall? or do I do the finish last after sewing?

If I am doing a piece of veg tan and I want to darken the leather slightly (so I end up with a light oil finish), what type of oil would you recommend? I tried to dye it a scrap piece with Fiebings Pro Oil in Lt Brown but I am not sure what I did but it is more of a med brown. And I oil after I stamp it, correct?

I think that most people that are creative are always looking at their work, finding what works and what doesn't, what needs to be improved, etc. The people with the "oh, that's good enough" mentality are not interested in putting out their best work....they are just chasing the dollars. But remember, we are always our worst critics. What we "see" and what our customers "see" are two different things.

Same as above...I would be interested also to use as lining depending on weight.

Need more input...here are some progress pictures of the matching breast collar. I am not super happy with the stitching on these but maybe I am being overly critical. I stitched the outer row of stitching first. Then I stitched the tabs back. Then applied the overlay and stitched that on. I think when I did the outer row of stitching I should NOT have stitched up the tabs and then when I did turn the tabs back and sewed those I wouldn't have been stitching over stitches. Thankfully some conchos will go on the tabs and help cover up that. Would love some feedback and any construction tips you would be willing to share.

yep...that's who gave it to me but the little note didn't make it in my bag. Do you have it?

I was at the Tandy store over the weekend and the lady gave me a slip of paper with a recipe to clean leather. I know it contained vinegar, acetone, distilled water and denatured alcohol. Does anyone have this recipe?

THANK YOU!!! Yeah...I have been turning it back sometimes

Maybe that is the problem..I am not completely the stitch. i find it hard to figure out when the stitch is complete...with needle at lowest point?. Would this be the same needle position you would want when you lift your pressure foot to remove your item and have the least amount of thread tension where you are able to pull out some thread to clip it?

I just assumed it was an "industry standard" as I see it on a lot of different pieces from different places. I can't seem to get it to work for the life of me. I tried the other day. Ended with my needle down. Turned my item 180 degrees, lifted the foot and moved it over about .5"...being careful that I wasn't pulling out bobbin thread. Put the needle down manually and started sewing. And my bobbin got all jacked up...thread stuck around the case. I was able to get the thread removed from my item, bobbin cleared out and started over. So, I give up...I think I will stick with ending, backstitching, and burning edges. Much easier

JJ...that is actually not hair-on. It is "Dakota Side" from SLC. I bought a small piece (about 3 sq ft) a couple months ago and I loved the color. Looks great with the bridle leather I bought. So, I bought some more and it was totally different. Had a much more pronounced "crackle" effect on the surface and the colors were completely different (the second piece had a lot more turquoise in it). I like the color of the second piece but wasn't sure about that crackle surface holding up well especially for tack. In all my years of sewing, I understand dye lots but this wasn't even close. The only thing they could figure out is that the first piece I bought came from a corner. I just would have expected it to be a closer match since it is a man-made effect. Thankfully I have enough to make the breast collar and probably tie down from the piece I have. Here is a picture on her horse. Makes her look so pretty

Josh...this is for my daughter who is a barrel racer . It is going on her sorrel horse so I think it will look really good on her. Yeah...probably not going to sell to many like this to ropers, reiners, trail riders, etc.... LOL! Now personally I prefer a more traditional/functional style...but since I can't tool...or even draw as far as that is concerned...tooled leather is out of the question for me. It is funny because every time she gets a new horse she says "I think her color will be orange"...or blue...or turquoise...or red. My response is "what about her color being leather?"

So, headstall is almost finished...just need to add the spots.

yeah, now I see the list price. I missed that. Expensive yes but the applications are endless. I need to do some research and see if anyone is offering this service on a contract basis.

I was reading one of my recent trade magazines (screen printing - apparel decorating) and there was an article about the new UV Printers that can virtually print on anything. They look a lot like a laser engraving machine but they print with UV inks. If you can place it in the printer, you can print on it. They even have a cylinder arm so you can print on a wine bottle....pretty cool!!! http://www.rolanddga.com/products/printers/lef/ I am wondering if anyone is using these to print on leather? There is a tack company (Twisted Tack) I saw on Facebook that is printing on leather. At first I thought it was sublimated but maybe they are using a UV printer. They have some AMAZING ideas...very current! Just curious...I need to get to a trade show. I have no idea on price but it seems like equipment for my industry is always $15-$20k.

My bad...

Thanks Josh...I will check them out. I am trying to get together my initial $250 order with Weaver.

I have noticed on bridles, halters, breast collars and such that you will see the sewing along one edge and when it come to the end, instead of turning 90 degrees and sewing to the next corner, it will just "jump" over to the other side and continue down the other direction. Is there a trick to this? I tried to do this last night and I can't seem to keep the thread, particularly on bobbin thread, from pulling out too much and then when the machine starts down the other side, it doesn't want to pull that thread tight and it just gets all messed up on the bottom. PLEASE ...what I am missing here? Thanks Chris PS I am using the roller guide if that makes a difference.

So, tooling requires lighter weight than stamping? Does the 24 oz get heavy? I was looking at a 16 oz. at Tandy.

Does anyone know if there are any restrictions on are using the images in the craftaids or pattern books?

Yeah...boy that always comes up!. I once did some shirts for them with a drop shadow around the lettering and then stacked the year underneath. That really made you look twice. That is one of those instances in which I knew what it said but didn't take a step back and SEE how others might see it. Talk about being too close to the work to see the big picture. I never hear the end of it...in fact some of the kids got in trouble for wearing it them school! Also, one little old lady in church questioned one of the kids shirts!!!!! Really? In church? Yeah..the maul is the next purchase. Any recommendations on style or weight?