Tim Schroeder

Here's a little better proof of what the narrow plates do for these machines. The first 2" in the very bottom row is some 138 in 1 layer of no more than some 3/4 oz. chrome tan 1/8" from the edge. Maybe somebody will post a picture of that with a stock set up on facebook. I wouldn't get to see it though.

No edit button. Looks to me like the narrow plates and feed dogs and a big left foot as well as the other specialized presser feet would make the 441 clones as close to one machine does it all as you are gonna get.

I heard somebody on facebook was saying all these aftermarket plates and feed dogs and presser feet are a waste of time. I wouldn't know who because I deleted my facebook a long time ago. Probably back in the 1900's. The first 2 pictures are why I got rid of my Cobra 4 in the first place. I wasn't smart enough then to make my own outside presser foot out of the blanket foot in the premium package. I did have the slotted plate and the feed dog out of the blanket set from the premium package in my hand headed to the machinist to make my own narrow plate and feed dog way before the narrow plates came out. Didn't think it would work because of the size of the hole in the feed dog. But instead traded the Class 4 for a Class 26. Still kicking myself in the ass for that one. First 2 pictures are stock Cobra and Cowboy style presser feet and the stock plate and feed dog that come on these machines. That's some 5/6 oz. veg tan. 2nd picture is a picture of the stock set up on the Cobra and Cowboy machines and the results I was getting when I had a Class 4. The third picture. The left side is presser feet like the ones that come stock on Cobra and Cowboy machines but with @Patrick1's #25 needle plate and feed dog. The right side is the stock set up. The fourth picture is @Patrick1's #25 plate and feed dog with my presser foot made from the blanket foot that came stock on my machine just like the blanket feet in the Cobra premium package. I did take it to my machinist and had him mill out the mounting slot to move it over closer to the narrow center foot I had to buy. I can't believe somebody would say these plates and feed dogs and presser feet are a waste of time. Maybe they just haven't used them.

I think I'm thru adjusting anyway. Max stitch length forward backwards and forward again,10 stitches No skip stitches No knots. 138 in 5 to 7 oz of chrome tan. With the guide there the thread doesn't rub on anything, even in max stitch length position.

Just curious if anybody else thinks moving that thread guide would make any difference.

I was watching videos of the Cowboy and Cobra machines. I had a Class 4 at one time. It sewed absolutely awesome, and I loved it. I noticed watching Pat Hennigan's videos you never saw any slack in the thread as the needle was about to make contact, I would have a little slack sometimes. Sometimes see a big loop while just sewing. I noticed in a couple of videos I saw people running these machines skipping that last thread guide. I noticed on the Cobra's the thread guide is mounted in a completely different place. I tried to mount mine there, but it wouldn't fit so I mounted it to the inside of the faceplate instead of the outside and it made a noticeable difference in the way it sewed. Just curious if anybody has tried this.

I did loosen the screw but I didn’t push that part over. One of those I D 10t errors. Thanks @CowboyBob

So when I moved the needle to left, using this method, it left play in the walking foot bar.

I think I finally got it all right.

I never would have believed you could put a #28 in it and then change to a #21 and sew with no problem. I proved it to my self without a doubt it will do it.

Thanks @TomE pretty good learning experience. I had a Class 4 before the narrow plates. It just wouldn’t do what I needed to. I trade it for that 26 I have. Do use the narrow plates?

Thanks @RockyAussie I have watched that video before just forgot about it.

Thanks for the help @CowboyBob. I knew I was on my own to get it going when I bought it. It was almost half what ANY dealer would sell me one for. @DocReaper there's no different size back plates or shims. Although the manual says there's 6 different sizes. CowboyBob said if he could get a shim, it was $350. Not sure why you would ever need the shim although this machine is made in china. If the housing was machined out to far you might need one to push the back plate back over towards the needle. I thought this was the same machine Cowboy and Cobra are selling. I saw Uwe pull the back plate out of a Cowboy machine on YouTube. That's how I learned how to get it out. The Cobra manual tells you to take it out when cleaning the shuttle area. The new method of shuttle to hook clearance is really cool. You could change the clearance every time you change the needle if you wanted to. It takes less than minute to make that adjustment. I understand @TomE that you don't have to even going from a 28 to 21. But you could in a matter of a minute or less. I set my machine up to just clear a #25 needle and I know it will sew just fine with a #21 just like your machine @TomE. That adjustment should be in the manual you get from the dealer. Even if it will sew going from a 28 needle to a 21 needle you should make that adjustment. I think you could just lower the needle until it comes back up the 3/16" and make that adjustment just by pushing on the needle.

Yes, You are CORRECT. I zeroed the needle on the needle (250) that came with the machine and then put a 21 needle in it, and it didn't skip a stitch for 20". Sorry, I had to prove that to my hardheaded self. Hard to believe it would sew with the hook that far from the needle.

Ok after figuring out the diameter of the needles, going from a #25 to a #21 there would be a .35mm difference and manual calls for a .25 to .35mm clearance. That would be within the tolerances. I had read you could go 3 needle sizes, but it looks like 4 is still within the manual's specs so you should be able to go from a #21 to a #25. You can visually see the needle in the picture move as the hook passes it. The needle is at 0 on a #23 needle so there is a .2mm deflection. It's a #25 in a #25 Hennigan narrow plate. If I move the needle to the left to clear the hook do I have to start shimming the feed dog. Is the plate still gonna fit.

There no shim behind the back plate. Shims would move the hook closer to the needle. If I move the needle over will the needle specific plates and feed dogs still work. Right now the needle is middle of the feed dog. I was trying to find the diameter of needles. I understand it will sew 3 or 4 needle numbers down. If the hook is 0 on a #28 needle is it still gonna sew with a #20 needle without any adjustment. Machine can use #19 up to at least #28

Ok Thanks Bob. I have that back plate seated properly now.

Yes sir

This section talks about the travel of the needle bar.

No edit button

I don't think the shuttle was pushed all the way as far back as it will go. I was trying to show the hook was up against the shuttle race back plate and the only way to move the hook to the right to clear a bigger needle would be to change the back plate as the instructions say. I don't believe you can buy them anywhere. The manual also had a way to move the needle to left buy an adjustment in the needle bar guide. But wouldn't that move the needle out of the center of the needle plate and feed dog. Adjusting it for what I need probably wouldn't matter but trying to make a #28 needle clear might be a different story. Another question, there is an adjustment for needle bar travel, but I don't understand it. I don't know how to tell if it's too far or not far enough. My machine is pulling the knots to the top but then they go back down where you can't see them.

Bob also sent me this.

To adjust the shuttle to needle clearance you do have to replace the shuttle race back. I was calling it the inner race. Manual says they come in 6 different sizes. Makes sense if you want proper needle to shuttle clearance on a machine that will sew from 92 to 456.

Better picture

I read that too but if the inner race is tight against the housing and the hook is tight against the race how could it move without the thinner inner race?