ikewineb

I've had request to do initials on a finished product before. I cut letters with a swivel knife and "filled" it in with a wood burner. It actually came out pretty nice.

If you have or can pick up a blue gun, just have him send you the laser off the weapon. Attach it to the blue gun, wrap it like a real weapon, and go from there. If you don't have a blue gun, there's an ASP on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASP-Red-Training-Gun-Browng-Hi-Power-7314-/350976946212?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b7db3024

That is exactly what I was looking for Jason. Thank you!

This is a little off topic, though not completely. I see people on etsy and the like that are making the actual chains for wallets. How do you do that? Does anyone have any sources or info on the process. I've done a few round braid chains, but nothing with metal, as of yet. I have the premade chain links where you just cut the chain to length and attach your end pieces, but that's not really the same. Any info would be helpful.

No way that is your first holster! Great job. Looks very clean with crisp lines. Very impressive.

I agree with dwight about the quality of leather. I normally don't do anything to the flesh sides of straps. The one excpetion is on motorcycle bags. I will dye the back side, rub them down with gum trangnathum (however you spell that) and pull them over my burnishing stick. then I use the same top coat and sealers I use on the finished side. I only finish those because they are going to get wet. I really don't know if that process helps with water or not, but in my mind it does.

I've done them both ways. I actually prefer one design that covers both sides. I think a lot of it depends on how much tooling you'll be doing and the weight of the leather. I try to limit the tooling over the spine if I can, but don't think it's a huge deal. I typically use 8oz for the outside. It might weaken the leather some, but it's not like it's load bearing...its a wallet. The pictures below are of the last one I did (I got to play with my new airbrush)

I make my own patterns using file folders. I make the pattern on the seam and cut it out with the folder folded. This ensures both sides are the same. I glue the renforcement piece to the body of the holster. I secure it with binder clips to ensure it doesn't move while it dries, then sew. Fold the holster over, glue and sew. The only thing I worry about lining up is the belt slot. The rest I trim if it's off a bit.

What did you sew that with?

So, I assume you are talking about sewing the renforcement triangles to the main top piece in addition to the glue? If that is the case, I can't see where sewing would add any strength. It might look better, but I would think that's about it. The glue (assuming you are using contact cement or barge) is a lot stronger than you might think. Is it a washer or a gromet? That's where I would assume most of the support would come from. You could put some additional stiffiner between the two layers of leather. Kydex, sheet metal, anything thin and strong. Though it will make that corner extremely rigid. Side note...Neatsfoot oil is not a finish. It will soften the leather, but won't protect it to any great extenet.

It looks quite a bit better than I thought it would with the chrome tanned leather. I would roll the edges where the back wraps around to the front, it would certainly have a more finished look. Search the forum for rolled edges, you'll find a lot. I've never heard of anyone using the inner cords of paracord to sew...neat idea. I'm not sure how it will hold up long term. There are a lot of post on here for first tools and the like. I would start with a swivel knife, at least two bevelers (med and small), an edge beveler, mallet, and a background tool. You can do a lot more than you think with just that short list. You would also need sewing tools, based on what syle you were going to do. The basic would start with a chisel and needles. The best would be a stitching pony, stitching awl, and needles. I would recommend reading a lot, before you even buy your first tool. I'm not sure about dying chrome tanned leather...never tried. I would assume it would accept dye. The issue is that it has been finished and sealed. You might could try and strip the top coat off, but really, it would be much easier just to get the proper leather. I'm sure someone else on here knows and will chime in though.

Welcome. A picture would certainly help. If you are going to be stamping or tooling leather, you would need Veg tanned leather. A sofa, is likely Chrome tanned...it won't work.

I'm not going to try to put the softail seat on the Dyna...I know that won't work. I got them to practice with and make a mold from. If they turn out well, I'll sell them. If not...no one will ever hear about it ;-). One pan I have is for a duce and the other a softail 00 and up, I believe. The Duce is missing the rear tab and the softail is missing the front tap. Those, I can make. If anyone has a picture of those taps or the measurements, that'd be a huge help. For now, I plan on just setting nuts in the fiberglass for the tabs to be bolted on the seat. It's confusing...I know. I agree the steel pans are obviously stronger than fiberglass. I think working a metal pan for a two up seat is just way too much work. Every two up seat I've ever seen has either a fiberglass pan, or an ABS plastic pan. If you have ideas of how to make a two up steel pan, I'm all ears though. I'd love to hear some ideas. I'm going to tear the seats apart and try and get my molds made this weekend.

I recently made one for a commander. I have the three blue guns with a traditional slide, but I own a full size with Sig's slide. I started by forming and molding the holster on my Sig (with it sticking through the end obviously). Then I used my blue gun to shape the end of the holster. It's a bit more work, but it actually came out well.

I think it looks very nice. The only thing that stands out to me, is it doesn't look finished. In the circle, the lone seeder stamp...It just looks like it needs more. Overall nice bag.