ikewineb

I make my own patterns using file folders. I make the pattern on the seam and cut it out with the folder folded. This ensures both sides are the same. I glue the renforcement piece to the body of the holster. I secure it with binder clips to ensure it doesn't move while it dries, then sew. Fold the holster over, glue and sew. The only thing I worry about lining up is the belt slot. The rest I trim if it's off a bit.

What did you sew that with?

So, I assume you are talking about sewing the renforcement triangles to the main top piece in addition to the glue? If that is the case, I can't see where sewing would add any strength. It might look better, but I would think that's about it. The glue (assuming you are using contact cement or barge) is a lot stronger than you might think. Is it a washer or a gromet? That's where I would assume most of the support would come from. You could put some additional stiffiner between the two layers of leather. Kydex, sheet metal, anything thin and strong. Though it will make that corner extremely rigid. Side note...Neatsfoot oil is not a finish. It will soften the leather, but won't protect it to any great extenet.

It looks quite a bit better than I thought it would with the chrome tanned leather. I would roll the edges where the back wraps around to the front, it would certainly have a more finished look. Search the forum for rolled edges, you'll find a lot. I've never heard of anyone using the inner cords of paracord to sew...neat idea. I'm not sure how it will hold up long term. There are a lot of post on here for first tools and the like. I would start with a swivel knife, at least two bevelers (med and small), an edge beveler, mallet, and a background tool. You can do a lot more than you think with just that short list. You would also need sewing tools, based on what syle you were going to do. The basic would start with a chisel and needles. The best would be a stitching pony, stitching awl, and needles. I would recommend reading a lot, before you even buy your first tool. I'm not sure about dying chrome tanned leather...never tried. I would assume it would accept dye. The issue is that it has been finished and sealed. You might could try and strip the top coat off, but really, it would be much easier just to get the proper leather. I'm sure someone else on here knows and will chime in though.

Welcome. A picture would certainly help. If you are going to be stamping or tooling leather, you would need Veg tanned leather. A sofa, is likely Chrome tanned...it won't work.

I'm not going to try to put the softail seat on the Dyna...I know that won't work. I got them to practice with and make a mold from. If they turn out well, I'll sell them. If not...no one will ever hear about it ;-). One pan I have is for a duce and the other a softail 00 and up, I believe. The Duce is missing the rear tab and the softail is missing the front tap. Those, I can make. If anyone has a picture of those taps or the measurements, that'd be a huge help. For now, I plan on just setting nuts in the fiberglass for the tabs to be bolted on the seat. It's confusing...I know. I agree the steel pans are obviously stronger than fiberglass. I think working a metal pan for a two up seat is just way too much work. Every two up seat I've ever seen has either a fiberglass pan, or an ABS plastic pan. If you have ideas of how to make a two up steel pan, I'm all ears though. I'd love to hear some ideas. I'm going to tear the seats apart and try and get my molds made this weekend.

I recently made one for a commander. I have the three blue guns with a traditional slide, but I own a full size with Sig's slide. I started by forming and molding the holster on my Sig (with it sticking through the end obviously). Then I used my blue gun to shape the end of the holster. It's a bit more work, but it actually came out well.

I think it looks very nice. The only thing that stands out to me, is it doesn't look finished. In the circle, the lone seeder stamp...It just looks like it needs more. Overall nice bag.

Those look good. I have a question though. Seriously, I know nothing about dog collars, but doesn't their hair not get caught on the rivet backs? I would think I liner of some kind would be a big plus.

I picked up two softail seats this weekend. The HD dealer had a take off sale, selling used parts. I got them for $25 each. I picked out the roughest of the stack. I figured I'll try to learn/practice in steps. Start with a recover of an existing pan, then foam and cover, then pan foam and cover. Now, I need to find a source for seat tangs. The front ones seem simple enough. It's just a simple piece of bent bar stock. The rear fender tang needs to be dressed up a bit.

I'd love to try my hand at shoes...later, much later. There is a shoe section on the forum. I found this site for last when I was looking into it http://www.shoedo.com/newmoremenslasts.html.

I don't know, but...What about the fiberglass resin? Sorry for the off the wall thought.

I'm interested in the responses here. Are you going to be making the cover with pannels or just one piece? Where are you going to braid? I don't know if you would mold the leather over the seat, but I imagine it would have to be damp to stretch it and get the cover tight. I'm not sure how well the transition dye job would come out without the airbrush. I've seen some where it has been dry brushed with good results, but it's beyond me. I hope you get the answers you are looking for.

So, I've been doing quite a bit of research on this. There are some pans made from kydex, but not many at all. Most Thermoplastic pans are made from a laminated ABS. This is the same stuff that a factory pan is made from. I've decided I'm going to try to just make a mold with Kydex and then build a fiberglass pan on top of that. There are two big benfits I see. First, I could use it mutile times to build more than just one pan. I could even borrow a few friends bikes for a few hours to make the same molds for. Second, I wouldn't have to risk getting resin on my bike. The last thing I want is to make her mad at me. It will be a while before I can get to it, but I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

That is absolutly ridiclious. It's crazy good. I don't know how much you sell those for, but it's not enough.

That's a nice looking seat. Don't you get color rub off with the oiled leather? Did you seal it?

Not argumentative at all. If I'm worng about something, I appreciate someone pointing it out. I've made kydex holsters before, and from my experience, they can get soft at surprisingly low temps. Not like the weapons going to fall out soft, but loose some detail in the forming. I've been doing some reading since your post and there appears to be grades of kydex. The thickeness of the kydex could be a factor too. Holster's typically use pretty thin stuff. Any idea how thick the kydex on your seat is? Could you lay fiberglass ontop of it to add strength? I mean, I know you can, but would it bond. Any info or ideas there would be helpful.

So, I've talked to Saddleman (still waiting on a final word there), corbin, drag specialties, biltwell, and a few others that never responded. It looks like to get anything close to what I want, I either have to find a stock seat or make my own pan. My concern with making a pan is laying the fiberglass on my bike, especially if I decide to make more than one. Uncle Fester's comment got me to thinking. I don't know if this would work, but...What if I made a mold on the bottom of my factory seat with kydex. basically, just lay Kydex in it and heat it until it conforms to the bottom of the factory pan. Then I could tape it up and lay the fiberglass ontop of the mold. Would that work? There has to be a problem with it, or smarter guys than me would of thought of it already. For that matter, you could about cast it in plaster. In my head, it would give you a workable mold to make multiple pans on. The biggest benefit is I could make them on my bench and not on my bike.

Kydex would not be nearly strong enough and becomes pliable when hot. Air cooled engine sitting under it on a 100 degree day...oh, it woudn't be good. Good Call on biltwell. I'm going to email them and see if they have anything two up or offer a pillion to match one of the solos. You are right, that is a bit pricy, but it would take a lot of the work out of it. I'm not really interested in shaping foam and the like. I just want to do the leatherwork.

Well, no one responded here... I've put super-shene on the flesh side before on bags and the like. It is going to change the look and feel of the flesh side. Try it on a scrap and see what you think. I would think anything that would do an adequate job of sealing will change to look and feel. If he likes the natural look, he may actually want the discoloration and used look that will happen overtime with untreated leather. I would suggest giving him the option.

I've checked Craigslist and the like. Most folks are looking at $150 - $200 for a stock seat. I have a feeling the people that have damaged and torn seats, probably don't sell them because they don't think anyone would be interested. An interesting twist, I got an email back from Saddlman (I emailed a lot of seat companies), and they said they would sell me just the pan and foam. I'm waiting to get a quote, to see if it is reasonable. I just can't imagine I'm the only one that has wanted to cover and make a standard style seat. I'll let you guys know what they say...in case you are interested.

That is certainly an option. What I've found though is that people want quite a bit for their stock seats, which really surprised me. My local HD store is having a take off parts sale next month. I'm going to go snoop around. Who, knows, they might make me a decent deal if I took them all. If anyone in NC or southern VA has a seat that would fit a 12 FXDWG they would let go cheap, I'd be interested.

Yeah, I checked them out, they are making steel pans in a chopper style. I sent him an email just in case though. I've seen the videos on how to make the pans from fiberglass. The thing is, if i was going to build one for someone else, I'd have to have their bike for an extended period of time.

I've been wanting to try my hand a a seat. I'm confused a little about pans. The thing is, I don't want a bobber style seat and my girlfriend would get the wrong idea if I made a solo. Does anyone know anyone that offers factory styled pans that are reasonably priced? I'd like a two up or solo with pillion. I could make either of those choices work if someone knows of a source. Before everone jumpst on the obvious. I know I could make the pan from fiberglass myself. I have given some thought to that. For my own bike, I might would do that. I would eventaully like to make several for different bikes. If I could buy pans like that, it would be much quicker and easier. I also don't like the idea of using my bike as a tool... I asked the local HD dealer, and they said that HD doesn't offer just the pan, you've got to buy a complete seat. They told me to check out drag specialties...I could only find bobber style pans there though.

I have no idea, but I've seen it predyed http://www.zackwhite.com/8--9-oz-White-Dry-Chrome-Latigo-Sides_p_4897.html