rdl123
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Everything posted by rdl123
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Ron: Thanks for the compliments and for the tips...I'd read in Al Stohlman's books about the rigging plate plugs but when I watched Dale Harwoods DVD's I noticed he didn't use them - However, on saddle 2 I will use plugs...I think even just from an aesthetic standpoint... That rigging plate you show - Do you use that in flat plate rigs or for in skirt riggings? Nice clean looking plate. Ron L
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Randy: What style of saddle do you plan to make for saddle #2? Who do you use for trees? I just ordered the Jeremiah Watt DVD's by the way (from country supply). Should be here in a couple weeks... Adam: The border stamp is just a tandy stamp - It seems to work... The basket weave is a barry king stamp, the 1/*" bead is a Barry King push beader - Use that in conjunction with a push beveler I picked up from Bruce Johnson. I've done a lot of hand stitching on chaps and chinks too - Good practice for saddle making. I also built a new rear cinch for my current saddle - Just wanted to make darn sure I had the patience to sew 7 linear feet by hand through heavy skirting leather before I up and started a saddle project. However, I've been thinking pretty hard a about a sewing machine too - What I have concluded is that there are two good options - Buy a Chinese built machine for about $2000.00+ from techsew or Leightons or similar or save up little longer and get a Pearson #6 for around $3000.00 - Apparently those Pearsons do a beautiful job and are simple enough to run...I know Steve Mason uses or has used one...and his work always looks perfect. I think that's the route I eventually want to go (unless I happen across something used for a great deal) For now though I'm going to be hand sewing... Ron
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Here are some pics of the rigging plate all sewed up... Going to put second plate together this Saturday hopefully. I hand sew @ only 5 stiches per inch - I figure I'll get good at that and then bump up to 7 or 8 per inch.
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From the album: first saddle project
Jus finished getting the first plate al sewed up -
From the album: first saddle project
Hand sewn @ 5 stitches per inch -
Bob: Thanks for that! Much appreciated, Ron
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Adam: I live real close to the border and have a buddy just south of the line that let's me ship stuff to his place. Basically it'll ship there and the cost is minimal because it stays in the states. Coming up though the border, sometimes they make you pay GST & duty, other times the guy'll just wave you through - It's real random.. I am starting to think that investing in the Jeremiah Watt DVD's would be worth my while. That's one thing Dale Harwood doesn't go into a lot of detail on - Hide layout... Sure be interested to see some pictures of you rig Adam... R
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Adam: Yep, discovered that my layout skills really need work...by the time I am done this saddle Ill have gone through 4 hides which I know is way over what should be doable. However, as I am making my own patterns, when I rough cut I am oversizing fairly heavy - That won't be necessary the next time around as I will have hardboard patterns that will be very close to what I want... Also, next time I won't have to make two set's of skirts! The other thing is, I cut my rigging liner leathers out of fairly good hide instead of running them into the flankier parts of the hide. Figured it was worth it as this saddle will be with me for a while. I just bought a piece of 13-15oz HO from http://www.montanaleather.com Talked to Jamie. They are out of Billings MT. I would be interested to know how many professional saddle makers can get a complete saddle out of two hides...And would that include stirrup leathers too? R
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Adam: Thanks for the heads up - I called Ken and it looks like they won't be bringing in anymore of the 13-15oz HO - Guess I'll call up Sheridan leather and try and get a side from them. Too bad about them closing - Ken is a great guy to deal with... R
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Hello Seth: I am following Dale Harwood's DVDs and the theory behind having the plate run that far up the swell is that it allows you to run you swell cover over it and create extra strength by doubling the two - making for an almost one piece unit. When you screw the plate in place your fasteners run through the swell cover, the plate and then into the tree. -
Here is a picture of the first flat plate I have put together - It still needs to be sewed up. Still need to makes the right side plate - Maybe this Saturday... I've ordered more Hermann Oak from Ken over @ Caledon so that will allow me to cut new skirts. If anyone knows of a good used sewing machine for saddle work I am definitely interested. I enjoy hand sewing, however, in view of efficiency I do want to pick up a machine at some point... R
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From the album: first saddle project
Still needs to be hand sewed -
Goldshot: Thanks for the help on this - I have decided that I am definitely re-making the skirts - I went through my leather last night and do not have enough left so definitely will re-order a side of HO. You said you keep your billet fold off of the horse - How far from the skirts is the bottom of your rear rigging ring? Also, Troy West, Steve Mason & Steve Brewer - Pretty sure I've read/re-read everything they've posted on here!! They are definitely inspiring. Steve Brewer - I used his tutorial for my ground seat - It worked out well! Anyhow - Appreciate the time you've taken out of your day to respond to my problems - I will re-make these skirts and use your idea of cutting the skirts large and finishing once blocked - This'll be a sure fire way to get them right - Should've done it in the first place - I just had concerns with getting both sides identical... so I figured I'd pre-cut. rdl
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Goldshot: I am very inclined to agree with you - Seeing as this saddle should last a long time I'd like to get it as close to 'right' as I can. Do you have a depth you typically strive for at the point of the rear rigging? For $200.00 I can get another side of HO - Money well spent when I consider that this saddle should be the last I every personally will need. (providing that it proves to be functional) My current saddle measures 7" from where the cantle runs into the bars to the outside edge of the skirt... Thanks for your help on this, rdl
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Thanks Aurelie: Also, I do have enough room still to move the rear plate up about 3/4" and it will still be off the bars - This will help the aesthetic issue...My jockeys can swoop down, cover rivets in rear plate, and be off of skirt line by about 1" or so... Anyone else have thoughts on this? rdl
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Oops - Started post I didn't mean to...
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So this weekend I cut my skirts out, fitted them to the tree and blocked them, Also got out flat plate rigging and the liners for these plates. However, bit of an issue with my skirts - I'd sure like to hear your thoughts on this - Basically I used the Al Stohlman pattern for skirts and went slightly butterfly with the pattern. However, as you can see in the picture they aren't very deep at the rear cantle point - Or where the rear billet rigging plate will be - My question is - Do I just go ahead and use them or do I cut new ones that are deeper? It is important t me that this saddle is 100% functional - Especially for roping. Will these smaller skirts @ the back be an issue? Kind of frustrating to say the least! My pattern looked great - However once I actually got the skirts laced and on I realized I need to take 3/8" of each side @ the rear where they butt up - The 3/8" was removed from the inside side - This jacked the skirts up another 3/8" plus blocking sucked up more skirt material than I had guesstimated - The bottom line is they are way shallower than I had planned on. Should I live with it or cut new skirts - Probable means buying a new side of Herman Oak. rdl
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From the album: first saddle project
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From the album: first saddle project
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From the album: first saddle project
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From the album: first saddle project
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Modified Assoc: I'd check out Bruce's website: http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/ Lot of good stuff on there... Osborne splitters run around $350+ (near as I can figure) The quote I received for the leather splitter I designed was $350.00 out of aluminum...So not worth it... Adios, rdl
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FYI - I can buy an Osborne from Bruce for about what it would cost to make this unit (By the time it is water jet cut and machined). I talked to Bruce and will be buying a Osborne from him - Just need to save up a couple bucks first. rdl
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Electrathon - The sensitivity of a skiver - Is this in regards to the roller being perfectly parallel to the blade (if you were looking at it from the top down), the cutting edge of the blade being perfectly centered over the roller, or the gap (cutting dimension) being perfectly true? I have no experience with these things and don't want to put money into this if it won't work - I'd called Bruce Johnson the other day but he must have been away - Will try to get ahold of him again... MT, R
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I need a simple leather skiver for taking skirting and latigo down to desired thicknesses... I have come up with this idea and am wondering if someone with skiving experience can let me know if this will work or not - I have a friend who can machine it all for me - probably use aluminum instead of the mild steel I show in the drawings. Please comment if you have a moment! MT, rdl
