rdl123

I am just starting my first saddle project... Tree: Timberline Wade - 15.5" finished seat, 13" cantle, 1.5" dish, Horn 3" x 4.25" cap @ 1.25" tilt - Bars set-up for typical Canadian ranch horse... Leather - Herman Oak Hardware - Stainless Steel from Sheridan leather I have attached a pic of the tree - What I would like to know for starters: I am trying to achieve the look / feel of the saddles you see Buck Brannaman riding - Really like how his horns are set-up - Sloping top, lots of diameter. This tree - Seems like there is a lot of undercut under the front of the top cap, a little more than I hoped for...Would there be anything wrong with cutting and skiving a piece in that woudld wrap around the front face of the horn post only to build it out? Nailed and glued of course? Would this be a bad idea? Basically it would reduce the undercut by 1/4" or so... How much undercut will dissapear once I finish this - wrapped in leather and then wrapped in 'mulehide'? Also, have read that some don't finish their horn posts in leather - They just use donut cap and proceed to finish wiith the horn wrap? Any comments on this? I'm inclined to think I want my horn post finished in leather and then wrapped in mule hide... On a horn this size - Cap and wrap or donut & filler - How to finish post with donut & filler? Any advice and comments will be appreciated! Also, a bit of background - Fairly new to leather work - Have built several pairs of tooled chaps / chinks, built rear cinches etc. Have all of Al Atohlmans saddle making books as well as Harry Adams, However, going to be using Steve Brewers ground seat techniques as they seem like a better way to go... My goal is to build a plain, smooth out working saddle - Be nice to have it ready for branding season.

I know of a saddle maker up here in Saskatchewan who uses no sheepskin...The skirts are made up with the bottom side piece rough out...He runs the grain like you do sheepskin to keep the pad in place...And this guy was a PFRA manager for years and rode his own saddles so it obviously worked for him...He just roughs up the bottom rough out side every once in a while and had no issues with balankets or pads slipping...A friend rides one of his saddles on his own ranch and says it sits really well on a horse...specially for roping....Wonder if maybe the lack of the sheepskin layer helps there...