rdl123

Hello All, This project is pretty much wrapped up now - Assembled this last night. I'd like to say thanks to all who helped me out on this project and to all who pointed out things I should do different next time - This forum/website has been the most valuable education tool to me so far... Now, I would like honest criticism from all of you saddle makers out there - I want to know what to do different /better next time. I am open to all critiques on fit, shape, function etc... A few things I have noticed: 1. Rear jockeys - Not tight enough - Didn't cut them deep enough so very hard to get them really tight. Next time will add 1/2" extra. 2. Rigging plates - Too round on front edge and too far up fork - not quite as clean as ideal @ front end. 3. Cheyenne roll - Stitching on back looks like hell. Need to really practice on that, 4. Rear rigging plate set too high. Caused issues with seat ear and saddle strings 5. 13" Wide cantle - Probably do a 12.5" or maybe even 12" next time. 5. Plug rigging plates next time to eliminate bump @ rigging plate. 6. Consider using 2.5" stirrup leathers. Here are the pics I snapped yesterday evening - Oil is still evening out. Once again, thanks to all who helped me on this! Kind Regards, Ron L

Thanks Ruark - Yep - I used real woolskin, bark tanned and put the butt forward. Still sewing those up actually. Hand sewing so it's slow going. Anyhow, I have hung the stirrup leather/fenders and have the twist set - I went with the Nevada half twist. Here is a grainy pic: Next is to finish sewing skirts and billets and lace those skirts up - Then oil everything good and assemble! Can't wait to ride this thing! R

Rickeyfro: Patterns were my major concern when I started my first saddle - In the end I created my own and so far so good - I would highly recommend Jeremiah Watts saddle making DVD's - He shows how to make your seat pattern and ear cuts very clearly. Harry Adams books show how he makes patterns for everything else - He makes it simple and less intimidating. Al Stohlmans books are very good too - I also bought Dale Harwoods DVD's and found his stuff very helpful as well. I think the first thing is to find a saddle / image of saddles you like the looks of and then study those images a lot. While you are making your patterns you can go back and use those images as guides. I went on the internet and saved about 10 images of saddles I thought looked right - I then tried to mimic their lines as much as I could. One important thing I learned the hard way - Cut your skirts to shape after you blocked them. I cut to size first, blocked them and ended up with skirts that needed re-made. Second round I cut skirts too big, blocked them and then made lines to cut skirts to - Worked out well. Regards, Ron L

Oltoot: That is very interesting - How thick do you like your skirts to be if you are not plugging them? I did cut mine out of prime hide and they are probably 1/4" thick... Sure appreciate your experience, and advice! Thanks, Ron L

Bob: Your comments are much appreciated - I've been battling the urge just to crank out the last few parts and actually ride this thing - However, your advice has encouraged me to take it slow. I have bored all the holes for my saddle strings. Plan is to install skirt fillers and fleece this weekend. I have notice in the JW DVD's that he does not fill his skirts all the way around - Instead he leaves about a 6" - 8" area right under the stirrup leathers with no filler - Idea being to promote close contact. Can anyone comment on this? It makes sense to me...Just wondered if there is any reason to not go that route... Many Thanks, Ron L

Thanks Oltoot - That is the way I will go. Here are better pics. I am up for any critiques anyone can offer - Thanks, R

Cheyenne roll is sewn up now, rear jockeys stretched in (could use some more stretching I think). Next step is to bore through for saddle strings. Can anyone comment on that? I feel that boring is the way to go - Is there any compelling reason to just screw them on? MT, R

I would think that the issue would be one of fatigue resistance - I would be surprised if a fiberglassed tree or a rawhided tree does not flex to some small degree when you have a bull hit the end of your rope. The issue would then become which material handles repeated stress better. When an item is repeatedly loaded with force/stress and then unloaded does it develop stress fractures? I know when I used to build wood longbows that fiberglass or rawhide was often used on the leading edge of the bow to prevent the wood from splintering when the bow was drawn - So both materials offer high tension type stress resistance. Time and heavy use would be the ultimate judge. Just my 2 cents. R

Been busy lately with other projects so this one has sat idle for nearly a month. Anyhow, tooled up rear jockeys and installed Cheyenne roll yesterday. Started sewing it - I'd be interested in any tips / tricks you have for this... Sewing through that roll is heavy work! Interesting thing about this project is that it has helped me to correctly value a custom saddle - I can now see why a good custom rig sells for $4000.00 / $6000.00. Any one who thinks that a custom saddle should cost anything less should just try make one! Ron L

Hello Chance: Not sure if you consistently ride the same bunch of horses, but If so it might be valuable to throw a pad on a few of them, drop your bare tree on them and see where the cinch would want to sit naturally. I know when I did that I ended up going with a 7/8 flat plate rig - It might even be more like between 7/8 and 3/4... Good job on the Rod Nikkel tree! I tried to order one recently and they are not taking orders from new customers right now...However Denise was good enough to put me on a waiting list! Ron L

Chance: Check out this link: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6655&hl=%2Bcenter+%2Bfire#entry74965 You'll notice Steve Brewer talks about one of the BLM guys roping horses with a 5/8ths rig... What are you planning on for a tree? I'd highly recommend Glenn Christman out of Pincher Creek. Ron L