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rktaylor

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Posts posted by rktaylor


  1. I personally like a little more and consistent rise going toward the swells but that's a preference. Are you following Watt's method on the ground seat? I suppose Stohlman's method isn't a lot different if those are the two resources you are using. While the strainer is the foundation, you can still do a lot of shaping with leather (with a lot of skiving). I fit the liner under the front tabs, but make sure you have enough to stretch over the finished ground seat. 

    Randy


  2. On 5/2/2021 at 3:23 PM, Goldshot Ron said:

    Also Ed, I've saved some of your photos for reference; thank you for sharing, I like your work.

    I like the photo with the mirror.  :lol:

    Seriously Ed, thanks for freely sharing your knowledge. You explain everything so well. 

    Dusty, keep us updated on your progress. 

    RT


  3. There may be better methods, but this is what I did on my last saddle with a dee rigging. The riser ends near the bottom of the swell. The rigging is skived to match the riser thickness and then follows the front edge of the stirrup slot. It slides up under the ground seat. This is closer to a full position than 7/8. More experienced makers might frown on this, but it worked for me. 

    Randy

    20200827_175332.jpg


  4. I skive along the swells to create a smooth transition. I would arc the riser forward at the bottom to give you something to skive to create a transition there. Just curve it around the swell. I'm sure there are other methods, but that's what I would do. 

    BTW, nice looking tree. 

    Randy


  5. Janet,

    Please consider that I am novice at this stuff, but from my perspective it would have to be a pretty good customer or friend, before I would consider the project. I will start by assuming you don't want to tear it down completely and send the tree for repair. If so, I would want to remove the swell cover and get at the heart of the matter. It looks like the metal fractured at the front of the horn, so that could create problems. I believe you can reattach the horn and fiberglass the swells around it. That would give it strength for trail riding, but I would be concerned that someone might try to rope in it. Maybe that's just the people I hang out with. :)  The swell cover also looks damaged, but if you get the horn repaired you can hide that by wrapping the horn with latigo or mule hide. I would also caution that you need to be confident in the repair (even with caveats to the customer) because it is leaving your shop as a repaired saddle. The bottom line is that I would have more time in the saddle than it's likely worth. That's why it would have to be a good friend or customer. Good Luck,

    Randy


  6. Depending on the size of the hole and leather weight, you may be able to plug it with a leather 'thread'. Use a strip of leather from a stitch groover to thread needle. Pull it through the hole and trim it flush. I've used this on a saddle skirt and it blended in really well. You could find the mistake hole if you knew where to look.

    Randy


  7. Ron,

    Thanks for the tips. Thankfully it is warming up. I am not built for weather like we experienced.

    toswood,

    The breeching strap has a good, round edge and I think it's more flexible than the photo shows. However, I will tell the customer to watch it closely. This is a for a riding mule that likely won't see a lot of action, but it's worth noting. Thanks for the advice. I'll share some pictures with the mule saddled if I get a chance.

    Randy


  8. Ron,

    Thanks for the tips. I considered both orientations and settled on lengthwise, but am not sure why. I'll think of something to blame it on. :) I really appreciate your notes. I haven't typed anything yet, but I made a lot of measurements yesterday and will definitely document this project. I plan to deliver and adjust this later in the week, so we'll see how it fits. I am concerned that the straps may be too long. If so, I may just build another spider with new straps. It's all trial and error at my shop. :)

    Randy


  9. Ed, Thanks for the cantle binding tip. I like that tool. I antique a lot of projects, but haven't done a saddle. Maybe it's time. 

    John,  This saddle was built to team rope. The customer ordered the tree to his specs so the bars should be fine. The horn is a 3 1/2" TD with 1 1/2" cap.

    Thanks for all the feedback. 

    Randy 


  10. Thanks for the compliments and critiques.

    11 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

    You asked for a critique, and so I will say (although this is a really small detail) that the applique used to attach the side strap really caught my eye because the start and finish make the braiding look incorrect.

    I need to check the bottom of the braid. I think the top is finished correctly, but the bottom is definitely off. I had already decided that the effort of this braid does not translate to better appearance, so I won't be using it again.

     

    3 hours ago, blue62 said:

    Looks pretty good other than the rear housing is shifted to the left of center.

    You are correct. I thought I had it pulled around, but it may have slipped back before it was nailed. I believe I can fix it before the saddle is delivered.

    Randy

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