[more rounded, premium/stainless pear shaders? Not so flat -ish?]

I love my Robert Beard pear shaders.

Randy

[Screws ripped out of saddle tree]

At some point I'm going to start worrying about the bar. Once you drill and patch enough holes, there's not going to be much original wood. You could patch the holes with dowel as suggested, then drill new holes also as suggested. Pictures would help. 

Randy

[Looking for silver hardware for breast collar]

Hansen Western Gear has some options. I've been pleased with their buckles and conchos, but haven't bought anything like this from them. 

https://hansenwesterngear.com/

Randy

[Matching border stamps and basket or geometric stamps.]

I think that is a good starting point. Chuck is right about finding things visually appealing. Some things just look better and some just don't seem right.

This is my 'medium' basket weave stamp and my 2 favorite border stamps.

Randy

[First Saddle Build]

I couldn't find the picture I wanted, but this is from a similar saddle. These stirrup leathers wrap around the bars, but they have the roller buckles I described. You will need to be careful about creating too much bulk under the seat hockey, so think about how the stirrup leathers and fenders are going to fit. 

Randy

[First Saddle Build]

18 hours ago, mbnaegle said:

Are they for the sturip leathers,

Yes. Your books are likely showing stirrup leathers wrapped around the tree. These smaller saddles typically aren't made like that. The stirrup leathers go through the dees and usually have a roller buckle for adjustment. I'll try to find a picture. 

Good job putting the tree back together. Brings back some not so fond memories. 

Randy

[First Saddle Build]

The Stohlman book would also be my first recommendation. While I find that I use Harry Adams' book more often, the Stohlman book covers more methods. I hope you continue to share your progress.

Randy

[First Saddle Build]

While I believe you will learn by working on that saddle, a lot of what you do won't transfer to full size saddles. For example the riggings and stirrup leathers aren't going to scale up readily. If you don't have a use for it, I wouldn't invest a lot of time or money. I undertook a similar rebuild quite a few years ago, but a friend wanted it for his grandkids. Good luck on the journey. It will be rewarding. 

Randy

[Dying a tooled saddle]

I have used dye on a few saddles. If you want to dye the entire saddle, I agree with @bland and @Goldshot Ron to use drum dyed leather from the tannery. I have used Pro dye for the background on tooled areas. I am not familiar with the acrylic dyes. I would not use anything to seal it as you will want to oil it in the future. I hope this helps. 

Randy

[Mule Saddle Breeching]

Jim, 

I called the buyer this morning and as expected it hasn't seen much use. This was a 'one off' project for me so I can't offer much advice. @Goldshot Ronshared his pack saddle instructions after I was done. They are now in my 'instructions folder' for future reference. He might share them with you. Let me know how it goes. 

Randy

[Dye Rubbing Off]

It wasn't sweat. 

I don't think it was sealed. I applied neat lac with a piece of shearling and since dye came off. I'll add another coat and put it back to use. I also think I'll stick with plain liners in the future. 

Randy

[Edge Finishing Soft Leather]

I have been using Gum Tragacanth and Tokonole for the past few months. Both are working fine, but I prefer Tokonole. That might change with more use, but it is my go-to at this time. Thanks for all the tips.

Randy

 

[Dye Rubbing Off]

I thought I had it buffed. No dye was coming off at that time. I will give the neat-lac a try. Thanks,

Randy

[Dye Rubbing Off]

I made a really nice lined belt for myself. I dyed the liner with Sheridan brown Pro Dye, oiled it with 100% neatsfoot, then sealed it with 50/50 resoline/water. The dye is rubbing off on my jeans. Should I add another coat of resoline or maybe some neat lac? What's the best way to prevent this from happening? Thanks, 

Randy

 

[Opinions on Herman Oak Old world harness leather for belt?]

This belt is made with HO old world harness leather from Weaver. It's a little thicker than I intended, but it could double as a tow strap.

I haven't written it a lot, but I like it. 

Randy

[Tree Suggestions]

Ron,

Wow. This was sure a long time ago. I ended up not building that saddle, but have built a few others. They are dominated by Will James, modified associations, and Buster Welch trees. I have recently used Timberline, Swanke, and Double L. They all seem to have their place. I really like Swanke, but they were 9 months out the last time I checked. I'm looking forward to seeing your saddle. 

Randy

[Barry King Tools]

Thanks. I'm looking for an easy, and effective, method for long straight bevels like belts. I watched a Don Gonzales video where he used a push beveler. Now I'm thinking the swivel knife beveler might be a better option for me. 

Randy

[Barry King Tools]

Sorry to hear about the gift card. That's unfortunate. I have been thinking about a push beveler, but now you have me thinking about the swivel knife. Have you used both? I'm also making a longer list of tools that I think I need.

Randy

[Tooling practice]

2 hours ago, Tim Schroeder said:

work on bargrounding and keep the background areas as small as possible.

I am currently focusing on these as well (among others). My background areas always seem to grow. Your work looks great. Especially the decorative cuts as noted. 

Randy

[Seeking Input on Sheath Design]

Thanks for the suggestions. This sheath has a welt. I have tried wet forming, but I think I need to cover more of the handle. Wet forming is a skill, like many others, that I need to work on more. 

Randy

[Seeking Input on Sheath Design]

Thanks for the input. I've been focused on other projects recently, but will return to this soon. I can report that v2.0 and v3.0 (not shown) lost their retention after wearing for a day. I have plans for another version, but it'll be a couple weeks before I work on it. 

Randy

[Seeking Input on Sheath Design]

Thanks for the feedback. Here's v2.0.

Critiques are always welcome, but I will note that I'm making these from scrap leather until I settle on a pattern. Both versions have welts, but the second one covers the tip better. I like this longer version, but there's still room for improvement. I think the stitch line along the top of the knife is too close near the handle and too far away near the blade. 

There's still time for input before the final build. 

Randy

[Seeking Input on Sheath Design]

 DieselTech,

Thanks for the compliment. 

He calls this a straight trapper. I've used it on anything from leather work to field dressing deer. I also think it could be longer and have some thoughts for other changes. I thought I would get input before I made the next one. 

Randy

[Seeking Input on Sheath Design]

I have two of these knives from a local maker and want to make a sheath. I made this real quick based on a similar sheath for a folding knife. I'm open for suggestions to improve the design for function and comfort. Thanks, 

Randy

[Rear cinch strap]

I just looked at a few saddles and most of mine are tied with 1/4 to 5/16 wide lace with about a 3/16 hole. The lace is either 3-4 oz latigo or kangaroo that is really thin. 

Randy