Rayban

Got them in yesterday...wow, FREE overnight delivery...Zoro rocks!! I didn't expect the stuff to be so dense, but then it's my first rodio with this process. Just waiting for the steel plate I've ordered now. I'm told by more than one experienced holster maker that my 6-ton press should do the job.....if I'm not happy I might need to step up to the 12-ton. Harbor Freight is just 10 minutes up the road.

Unless someone has good reason to talk me out of it, this is what I've decided to go with: https://www.zoro.com/e-james-rubber-sheet-gum-1thick-12x12-40a-387-1a/i/G0303064/#specifications

Good idea, thanks.

Need sources for foam rubber (or similar product) to use for molding leather using a hydrolic press. Thanks,

Looking for a source for 1" thick foam rubber to use with a press to mold leather. I understand I need 4 , 12 x 12 x 1 pieces

I'm surprised no one has replied to this. I say yes, 2 layers equaling 1/4" thickness, will be stronger than one layer at 1/4". Think of plywood, same principle. I've spoken to several old salt belt makers on this and we all seem to be on the same page. When glued and stitched together, less stretching, more rigid...much much better than single ply.

Yetibelle...I'm using size 69 nylon thread and #16 chiseled needle (from Toledo Industrial Machine)..very strong.

Sounds to me Wiz, you were demanding something out of the machine that it wasn't intended for. As I said before, I have a machine standing by (Cowboy 3500) for the heavy lifting. "Home machines" know their limitations....IMO

I used to shy away from projects that included light weight leather, such as deer skin/ calves skin, upholstery leather and the like.... I just didn't like bothering with making the adjustments on my big machine..... I finally decided I wanted to get the right machine to do the light stuff....found it in the Singer 15.91. I researched it and decided it was the machine I needed, so set out to find one. It took about two days and found one on Craigs. I really lucked out...this one is clean and had been very well maintained...and did I say CLEAN!! With the right needle and thread, it is perfect for leather up to about 5-6oz I figure...I'm sure some can do better, but I won't push it as my big gun is at the ready for heavier stuff. And it will also do fabric with a needle and thread swap. It's called a "home sewing machine", but darn nice having it in the shop....

I'm with you, cept I use balm/atom wax. Good sanding is the key IMO.

Thanks Mark..it's Horseshoe brand, 4072, 1-3/4" flank buckle. I order around 15 every quarter or so to fulfill a belt order.

I'm planning on making myself a camera bag. I ordered some oil tanned leather that looks pretty nice, but upon opening the package, I see that the packing slip wrapped around the leather is spotted with oil. Got me to thinking....is this a good leather to make a camera bag with? Will the oils in it affect the camera, lenses, etc. in any way? Comments? experiences with oil tanned? Thanks.

Direct from Watts, they want $9/ea. I was getting them from a small re seller for less than $5. Now he can no longer meet Weaver's min order requirements, so there goes my source. Thanks for your replies.

I know Weaver sells them, but I cannot meet their minimum order requirements. I'm hoping to find a re-seller/retailer I can work with.

Do you have any stock dies available..like for key fobs?

SOLD!!

SOLD!!

I'm moving and I don't want to take this with me...make me an offer I can't refuse. I also have an older table I will throw in with this.

..I'm moving and I don't want to take this with me. Must go...make me an offer I can refuse.

I bought this machine thinking I was gonna go into a little patching for bikers business, but it didn't materialize. I was told by an expert that all the parts are there, but it needs some tuning up by someone who knows what they're doing with it...and that's not me. It's been a good conversation piece in my shop, but I'd rather have the space. Asking $300, and must be picked up in Toledo Ohio as I wouldn't know how to begin to prepare it for shipping. Contact me for more pictures or to discuss. Rick

Used much, but works well. I haven't used it much and it's taking up space in the shop so it must go. Clutch motor and table is in excellent condition. I've used it to put together thin upholstery leather projects, but I don't do much of that kind of work any more. I understand it can handle much thicker leather (and canvas). Located in Toledo Ohio, must be picked up, I'm not interested in preparing it for shipment. Asking $250 Contact me for more pictures or to discuss.

Craig....I believe most will agree with me that in leather work, any two (or more) surfaces that are to be stitched together, should be glued together first. Does at least two things: Creates another degree of bonding the two layers together. And holds the two layers together as you stitch them..be it hand stitch or machine...makes the stitching job easier to manage. And of course for edges, keeps them from separating.

My bobbin winder...I've never used the one that came with the machine (Cowboy 3500)

Another vote here for Weldwood contact cement...I would just add to get the "gel" version. No dripping mess.IMO

I make machine stitched belts and they DO NOT stretch...between gluing two layers of leather together and the nature of the lock stitch, stretching just ain't gonna happen. So good luck with that. I generally use 207 nylon thread, top and bottom with #25 needle for most of my work.