Rayban

Yes, but it has to be in the 6-12 ton range....depending on the size of the die. There's an old thread on here somewhere showing some.

Hand stitching a belt is not difficult, IMO, just time consuming. As for a stitching machines (electric) I know nothing about cheap ones.

Richard, ...I see why you would argue the double thickness belt...but it's a fact...not opinion...that two layers of leather glued and stitched together will be more stable, stronger, less likely to stretch as readily as a single layer of the same thickness. Think plywood.....same principle. I don't blame you for arguing your case....I hand stitched a belt once. I vowed never again.

$65 up to 44" of belt size...beyond that we discuss.

Thanks!! I have a Cowboy 3500...I use 207 top and btm with #25 needle. For the keeper which is 9/10oz. I change to a #23 needle and don't mess with any tension knobs...makes a nice looking stitch IMO.

The bar seems to be 1/4" thick for a true "gunbelt".....it will seem awful thick to someone who has never worn such a thick belt but you get used to it pretty quickly.....and they are comfortable as they will conform to your body in short order. I use 9/10oz for the outer layer and 5/6 for the "liner"....I stop the liner just short of the fold and the 9/10 is (skived down to about 8oz) folded over the buckle.

If my round-about ballpark math is right, you're putting in roughly 10 hrs per holster??

I've been getting them from Buckleguy recently...good selection. They have a real nice stainless roller buckle, see item no. B6231.

Try making the first stitch a back stitch, then forward from there.......to the end, then back stitch one.

When all else failed, I tried this and it worked well! I didn't think my machine would let me get close enough to the gun profile....when making holsters.....if I molded, finished, then stitched. But it does. I just finished a black holster with white stitching..and I'm happy. Thanks!!

Well that was a few hundred belts ago...I have another plan now...I leave the spi alone and drop down to a #23 needle. It seems to make a nicer looking stitch in the thinner keeper leather.

Toledo Industrial Sewing machine has several 1lb. spools of 207 pink. I saw them today. I have a spool and it's a true pink.

Nope, that didn't work.....the black dye still rubbed off over the white stitching. What DID work was...I very lightly dabbed on the first coat of Res over the entire work...let it dry, then I was able to apply the second coat with a little more rubbing action. The first coat seals off the black area enough. I cut the Res 50/50 and usually use 2 or 3 coats. I tried spraying the Res on but I believe it was too thick for the particular sprayer I was using.. I normally use Fiebings Pro Oil dyes and don't have this problem.......the tannery, when they drum dye, must not. I have the same problem if I use USMC black or regular Leather dye....they both leave a lot of residue when dry.

Claude, I like that idea! Think I'll try it real soon. I don't have Wyo but I have some Super Sheen. Thanks!

Thanks, but that wouldn't work for me. When making holsters I stitch before I wet form, then finish when dry. I've tried stitching after forming but the machine doesn't like that.

I recently started using drum-dyed leather, black to be specific. I'm having a problem when I apply Resoline finish to a piece with white stitching, the residue from the dye rubs off and contaminates the stitching quite badly. Before applying the finish I'm very careful to rub off as much of the dry residue as possible, and have even rubbed with a damp cloth...but there is always enough left on the leather to contaminate the white stitching. I was wondering if anyone knows a way to keep this from happening. Thanks!!

Well it's been over 5 years now since I first heard about "slaughter free" leather (see OP)....and I haven't heard of it since...Thank You Lord.

I visited a promenant belt makers site this morning. He carries a line that looks like it's put together real quick and he says: "we leave the edges rough for that rugged look"...I though that was kinda funny.

Thanks CG.....i'm working on it...between reading your instructions and studying the piece......I may be able to get it.

I can do a bleed knot but I can't wrap my head around how this one works. I've been asked to make a dog leash with this braiding to attach the snap clip at one end, and the loop handle at the other. I need a tutorial of sorts...can anyone help? Thanks much.

Great looking pouch.

I went to Toledo Bob looking for a Boss......he sold me on electricity instead. I had to go home and scrape up a little more dough, but I'm sure glad I did. If you're ever up around NW Ohio, get on over here, I'll show you a Cowboy 3500 in action. A "real machine" as you put it is the only way to fly.

I'm about to make a belt using this stuff...does anyone know if it needs a top finish when completed? If so, which? I generally use Resolene on my veg tanned belts.....but wondering if this chromexcel needs anything at all.

W&C russet skirting is the stuff to get if you want soft...great coloring to leave nat'l too. And of course if will harden if you want it to.

Lookin good Chief.