steveh

Great work Hidepounder, Great edge work. Do you edge both sides with the same size edger? Did you burnish first, then spirt dye the edge? They look really good. Steve

Good looking boots, are you going into the custom boot bussiness?

www.hidehouse.com

Bob, I wish it where true but I did not tool the boot tops, that is Blakes work. Just want to clarify that. Steve

Blake ,Thanks for the explanation on your coloring process, very nice work! Steve

Very nice tooling on your boots, I like the two tone on the left photo. How did you achieve that? Steve

Latigo, is stuffed with oils and tallow, that makes it tuff and durable.The oil content does not make it desirable for tooling or stamping.Strap leather or skirting is tanned for tooling, oiling after the tooling process makes a nice finish and will darken the leather.

The Stohlman saddle book has one.

I agree with Bruce, the rigging hardware is to close to the bar. I drop my flat plate rigging about 6 1/2 inches from the lowest part of the front bar to the bottom of my hardware. In the future layout your skirts so that they come down to the bottom of your rear cinch dee. Nice saddle. Steve

Take your dividers lay out the size circle you want on the leather, drive a small box nail thru center into your bench, push a point knife thru the line of the circle you layed out and firmly into the bench, now pull the circle to the knife blade to cut out.

Gary, I dip the stirrup leather and the lower portion of the fender in a bucket of water and let it soak water all the way thru, when all the bubbles are gone.I stretch them on a draw down and shape them as there drying and leave them there till they are bone dry. Have not had any problems loosing the twist. I would imagine that the type of leather, the amount of moisture, the amount of pressure from a stretcher all have an effect on the twist. Steve

Cityclip, I use the original pully wheel on the machine, My v-belt is small 1/4 inch or 3/8 and is compatable with the machine and the motor.

I use a servo motor on singer 31-15, it works great and gives me lots of control.I use a V belt as well, I get mine from napa auto parts.These old singers maybe old, but they where built in America in an era where quality was the best. steve

Nice work Bruce! I was wondering how you attach the little silver flower centers? Do you buy them pre made, or make them yourself? Steve

When cement is tacky, stick the two pieces of leather together, take a slicker on the liner side, and rub it down real good, this takes any wrinkles and air pockets out of the leather and helps it bond better. steve

I like hemann oak, it is harder tannage. It is also a dryer tannage. I like fenders and skirts to have some firmness and rigidity.A good quality sharp knife will cut herman oak. When cased it tools very well, and the stamping impressions are clear and deep and remain there. when oiled with neetsfoot oil, it finishes with nice natural color.Plus it is domestic leather tanned in the USA.That means alot.That is not to say that you cant get a bad hide with hard spots though. Steve

Weaver may sell a russet color, and I think Harvey Boutin leather out of california may sell a russet color.

I have seen one , it was newell saddle. The tree was cast aluminum. I believe these where made after world warII, when there was a surplus of alumimnum.

Is it on a pedal stand, does the stand look original? If it is home made, it maybe that someone replaced belt drive with gear drive?

Andy, The hole in the smooth smaller collar on the end, takes a special wrench,Like a spanner wrench, it looks like a "C" shape, there is a knob on the wrench that fits into that hole on the photo. Hopefully one came with yours.Hope that helps. steve

Unique tree, with the wood post horn, on a swell fork. Really has neat look to it.Your tooling looks alive , very refined. the blending of the tooling, ruffout, and rawhide, gives this saddle a great style.

A welt would be a leather filler between the back and the front pieces of the sheath. it protects the stitches from the blade and makes for a nice fit , Your blade should never contact the rivet post steel or copper.

wolfenstien, I have drilled stainless quite a bit, use a high quality usa cobalt bit, do not know name brand off hand, the cutting fluid is a product like majic tap or crc in a liquid or aresol. use a vise or hold down to hold your work solid,in a drill press at low speed keep the coolent on your work. I have drilled 1/2 Plate this way.

Try using a colbalt bit in a drill press, with a cutting fluid applied while drilling. The Chromium in Stainless makes it very hard.

Just to let you know, the sun will not evaporate the oil. One thing it will do is darken the leather. You may want to test this on a scap piece first to see if you like the result.