steveh

Makers often used there middle intial, could this be the case?

Try a google search for "helmold steel rule dies" see if that may help you. steve

hello, Since you have an idea or vision of what you want your saddle to look like, I would contact a custom tree maker.There are some listed in the forum. Discuss with them what you have in mind. They can recommend a cantle hieght ,and dish, seat lengnth, fork style, horn, bars ect. Steve

Hi, Getting the value out of your saddle maybe difficult. You have to find that buyer that appretiates the saddle for its history and age, more often a collector or a mueseum. Often a buyer, wants to see a saddle in person to check the tree, inspect the riggings the leather , size ect.You might check for regional events like cowboy gatherings, sass, antique shows, sale barns, and farm supplys.Otherwise be patient keep advertising, good luck. Steve

Since you already have the holster, I would recomend making a pattern from the original, then purchase some tooling leather, stamp or tool it then sew it up.It will be much easier to tool the leather flat on a stone than an already formed holster. Just my thoughts. ateve

You could remove old waxes and finishes with the fiebings deglazer. then re-dye the leather with fiebings proffesional oil dye(black), you could then buff to shine with fiebings atom wax. steve

darcy, outstanding professional work steve

Who is the maker and contact information? Thanks, Steve

Try Indian Jewelwers Supply, for findings and raw material. You may also want find a good silversmith for finished silver.

The needle system should be 190lr, needle sizes 18 to 23 for 69 -138 thread.

Get the right diameter Mitchell abrasive cord run it thru the hole to remove any burrs. Get a string and load it with rouge, run it thru the hole to polish the inside. Cut a deep groove with groover, fill the trench up with rouge, drag the tool backward polishing the bottom up to the cutting edge of the hole.

P B Mcmillen was established in 1898 in Kansas City MO. They manufactured leather stamps and tools. There was some very nice floral carving coming out of the saddle shops during the turn of the century. Such as Visala ,Main Winchester, DE Walker that looks like swivel knife work to me. The GS Garcia worlds fair saddle of 1904 is also a good example. Steve

Could be they outsourced the tooling ?

Very nice refined professional work.

Do they have a picture page of the head and round knives you could post? Thank you steve

Round/head are made to cut leather. They are very akward to use for a begginer. The knife must very sharp and maitained that way. The larger round knives are excellent for skiving. The smaller head knves are great for cutting curves and circles. it takes alot practice with the knife but worth in the long run.

Frank Meanea is credited with devopment of the cheyanne roll on there plains style saddles of the late 1800's. out of cheyanne thus the name. the early ones were small in width, they served as handle for saddling your horse. it also allows for the stitching to be hidden under the back of the binding. In the 1950's as rodeo advanced into timed events like steer wrestling and calf roping the saddles evolved with short cantels and wide cheyanne rolls, this allowed fast dismounts for theses events.Straight up bindings look nice and are traditional on high cantels, and show quality craftmanship when stitches match in front and back. So both types of bindings are a matter of style and function.

most of the old time woolies had a strap leather yoke/belt at the top that fasten in the back with a buckel.,fastened together in the front with a break away lace.the front fur could be of bear goat ect. some where completely lined front and back with ticking.some where lined in front only with a 10 oz. cotton duck, the back side being horse or calf, some where stepins and some had rings and snaps. I have not seen any with fringe on the bottom though.old saddle catalog reprints would be a good resource if you want to make them authentic.

Ryan, Could please explain the differences Between The landis 30 and the champion Splitters,and why is the champion has more value. Thanks steveh

Nice refined work

I have letter carved fenders on trophy saddles, with roughout. I do all the lettering layout on mylar that semi transperent tracing paper,getting everything centered and spelled correctly, have my customer approve it before I start cutting with a swivel knife. Lay the mylar on the cased fenders and trace the letters with a stylis. I do all my beveling on the inside of the letters, I think it makes for a clean refined appearence, and applying the dye to letters is easier, less chance of goof up with the dye.

I would guess the saddle to be somewhere in the 1920's to the 1930"s, it has eight buttons , six button started to come around the late 20's into the 1930's, but there is overlap depending on region and the maker. It has a very wide swell ,a good rise to the seat ,the cantel has a fair amount of dish , it has a small cheyenne roll, and the small round skirts popular features during that time frame.

I beleive you could have your machine 97-10, adjusted to use a common 794 needle system.

My stampng bench 43 inches tall, 5 foot wide, 28 inches deep, there is a back board that holds staming tools and other tools as well, I have 3 inch thick granite that is 18x24, and is inlaid flush with the bench.I use a bar stool to sit in or I can work standing.My other bench is 4x8 3/4 ply wood with a 3/8 poly4x8 over top the ply wood, there are two level of shevles to store leather ect. it is 3 ft tall. I use this bench to roll out hides, and to do cutting and pattern layout. Steve

I use this size: Canu 12:05 (system catagory) Nm 110/18 (needle size) 69 to 92 thread size System 34LR