steveh

Sure is an interesting machine. Noticed you are in denmark so I guess it is of european origin? The needle is quite large 3 1/4 inches long as well as the bobbin case.The gearing is unique, with 3 dfferent size sheaves.The spool holder is interesting and I guess that is a wax pot? Hard to believe the ther are no makers marks on it . one would think there would be patent dates or part numbers all over it.? Hope some will be able to ID it.

the thonging chisel is to wide, the med and large tips are not going to make much of a difference. I wold suggest using a stitch making wheel. steve

This saddle has some features that would indicate that it is early saddle. Eight buttons. loop seat, seperate seat jocket, exposed stirrup leathers. You can see where the rear jockey and front jockeys have been replaced. Is it possible that saddle was stripped to the tree and the rawhide may have decayed or cracked and repaired with fiberglass. Fiberglass was around in 1940's more mainstream by 1950. I would not think the original tree was fiberglass. Visalia moved to San Fransico in early 1900, but the visalia stamp on the seat still read visalia Ca., but the cantle back makers stamp read San Fransico, with a serial #. Steve

That ebay seller is selling 50 gram spools , that is like 1/5 of lb, not a very big spool .

The tooling looks like porters style(large flowers and leaves) popular in the 1940's and 50's. Not saying it is Porters as this style was copied in other shops.The silver looks similar to schaezlein withe rope border and horse head? Looks like a nice well made saddle. Steve

Without a makers mark it is difficullt to ID a saddle. It is a longshot but looking under the seat jockey or rear jockeys may reveal something.Based on its style and construction I would guess it have been made 1910 to 1930. Good luck in you search. Steve

If you are new to this sewing technique,it will take some practice to get the hand coordination of the thread the and the needles mastered.. the clam that you are using uses your leg pressure to hold you work firmly. The left side or the blind side canot be seen, so as you stab your awl your needle in the left hand must follow the awl as you pull it out. I assume that you are marking stitches with a pricking iron or stitching wheel. The awl makes a diamond shaped hole in the leather, make sure that flat of the diamond follows you stitch line with a continious angle. You want to hold the clam with legs so that is perpendicular to your sewing hand. I not totally clear on your question, I hope this helps. steve

The 545 pfaff should fit your 31-15 table, it has a larger bobbin than the 111w-155, and has more room under the presser foot.

If you are refering to a beader blade, barry king, robert beard pro series, wayne jeski, and chuck smith ol smoothie all make them.

you will have to reduce the size of your picture in order to load it.. As you may know the saddle maker is from clayton new mexico 1890 to 1940's from dan and sebie hutchings book. restoration depends on the condition of the leather, cleaning and oiling should help preserve it.if you replace the wool skin be sure to use the same stitch holes, may want to use linen to be historically correct.replacing saddle strings if the old ones are broke and or missing.

after looking futher into the video index, the machine is a mitsubishi LY-2 3300, the motor is a mitsubishi limiservo 500w

I think it would be fine, it is a larger diameter thread so it wont look quite as refinbed.it will be stronger.generally 277 looks good at 7 to 8 stitches per inch, you might try 5 to 6 stitches per inch with 346.see if you can get a sample and stitch up some leather and see how you like it.

What needle size and brand of needle do you use when hand stitching 5 and 6 cord linen? Thank you, Steve

Swell forlk, high cantel, full seat, eight button, stirrup leathers over fenders, would guess between 1915-1930?

great display bruce.the hape saddle is outstanding. thanks for posting. steve

Sylvia, I use barry king blade blade . It really cuts smooth and holds and edge well.The geomentry of the blade is hollow ground perpendicular to the cutting edge, unlike most tradition knives (hunting or butcher) where the hollow ground is parralel to the blade edge This type of grind allows less metal removal when honing on a stone. When sharpening do not follow the radius of the hollow ground. You sharpen the blade as you would sharpen your standard straight blade.. I sharpen with a roller fixture at 30 degrees on a hard arkansas stone. when both sides of the blade are trued up then Ii strop on a rouge strop to a mirror polish..I hope this will help. steve

Feibings pro oil dye is alchol based. dip dyeing will get complete dye penatration. test your tannage for color fastness. I would finsh with neatsfoot oil and saddle soap if is a working bridle.

looks like it could be "low fits'em roper tree" three quarter flat plate rigging, What is the overall swell width? What is the cantel hight? 1935 thru the 1940's? reference 1936 catalog steve

heritage, osborne, and douglas all make setters for #12 copper rivets. steve

The feibings pro oil dye is alchol based{no oil} and will have drying affect on the leather. Oiling after dying is going to condition the leather but it will also darken and change the original dye color. Do some test samples on scap leather to find a color you like with combination of oiling and dying. steve

The blade I have was improperly sharpen on the edge like yours. The machinist used an angle finder on the original factory grind. A surface grinder usees an electro magnet base chuck to hold your blade The grinding wheel roatates perpendicual to edge and runs back and forth the length of the blade. this process will put a hollow grind , how much depends on the diameter of the wheel, the smaller the wheel will produce more of a hollow grind.This blade was from a krebs style splitter and the sharping worked great.

I took a blade to machine shop and they found the correct angle angle and reground the bevel on surface grinder. The surface grinder is very precise and use a coolant that keeps the blade fro over heating so you dont lose the temper. I also made a fixture with correct angle and glued a 1200 grit paper to a steel plate to touch up the blade when needed. Steve

Sew all the way to the point that you want to make the turn 90 degrees , stop, let the needle travel all the way down, and then travel half way up on up stroke, stop raise your presser foot turn your work 90 degrees lower your presser foot ,and continue sewing. steve

Acowboy, I resolved this problem. The lever that you lift for reverse has a black metal gauge. If this gauge is upside down it will not allow a full back stitch in reverse. If you examine this guage closely there is a taper on the sides, make sure that narrow end of the taper is pointed up. To access this gauge you will need to remove the the stitch selector by by unsrewing it counter clockwise,use caution as this is spring loaded and will fly out if you are not carefull. When the selector switch is removed simply rotate the guage into the correct position and screw the selector handle back on..Hope this helps. Steve

Just a safety concern? I would not weld on a hydraulic bottle jack , since is sealed vessel with hydraulic oil, the heat from the welding process will cause expansion and could rupture.