DoubleBarP

I don't want to reinvent the wheel. Wondering if anyone has a "chart" they are willing to share that can be used as a quick reference for Leather thickness. Ie. 1/8" – 6-7 oz…. Thanks for the help. DBP

Let me preface this with I am not a designer. I do however have over 3 decades of experience of daily carry. So I have some insight into what works and what doesn't. (And several "boxes" of holsters to prove it) My observations as an end user: Holster Cant - too much unless you are going for a middle of the back concealment (not recommended due to potential spinal injury and other "printing" issues that may arise. For a person with flexibility issues such as elbow or shoulderit would make draw somewhat difficult. Gun positioned too far above the belt line will cause gun to"flop" away from body just moving and as the belt streaches. Recommend lowering gun grip to just above beltline (can get a shooting grip while still in the holster). This may require somewhere in 10-12 degree of an angle which should lower more of the gun below the belt thus giving it more stability. Belt loops at 90 degrees to belt.

While I usually lurk on this forum I read your post and though I would offer the following: The age old question is: What is the"best" type of holster to buy. I just retired after 36 years in law enforcement and have been lookingfor that answer for a long time. I have several "boxes" of holsters as I have tried to address every type of concealmentneed. The answer is: It depends. The first thing I would caution against is, disregard what you may have read in themagazine articles. Or what some trainer may have said about the "best" holsteror what you may need. The questions to ask are somewhat more complex to get to a holster that may work for you. Body type: Small frame, large frame, tall, short, thickor thin waist. Any physical limitationsin terms of flexibility (I have a shoulder issue as an example).<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;">Style of dress / Climate: I look for a holster that is relativelycomfortable, then choose the clothing that will conceal the firearm. In other words how will you be dressed andwhat is the climate. As an example Ineed to buy pants and belt at least 2 inches larger if I wearing a IWBholster. Jeans 1.75 " belt, dockers, 1"belt. Duration and physical activities: think about what your daily activity is,standing, sitting, crawling, stooping, reaching, jumping, and running. You holster need to retain your firearm whileengaged in vigorous physical activity such as running away or towards somethingsuch as a threat or cover. Almost forgot,how long will you be carrying the firearm 8, 10, 12 hours. Side note:Carrying a 1911A1 will two mags, handcuffs, badge, OC and baton while in civilianclothing around all day can become physically taxing. Concealment: Where or what will you be doing and howcritical is that your handgun remain concealed. Do you need to stay concealed so no one around you knows your arecarrying or is it a casual concealment environment such as off duty lawenforcement. Is printing an issue, ifyou reach for an item and your firearm is exposed will that create aproblem. As you sit down will yourholster and belt creak, or make a sound when the butt of your handgun hits theplastic seat at Mc "D's". If someonebumps into you in a crowd will they impact your firearm? Handgun: How big is the handgun you want tocarry? There are trade off's witheach. What does the gun weigh? 1911 vs KetTec 9mm, there is a worldapart, thick Glock or Smith & Wessonor wheel gun with 2 inch cylinder. Any sharpedges or angles that will become a problem in concealment design. An FN 5.7 as opposed to a S&W J framechiefs special it makes a difference. Insummary: Holster selection / Designis based on several criteria. In myexperience this includes: · A combination of speed, safety, durability,and a key component for concealed carry, concealability. Also retention while engaged in vigorousactivity. · There are some safety areas that cannot becompromised – Covered Trigger. As I said "it depends" and it only my opinion and you everyone hasone of those… Regards

Having carried a badge for 36 years. I am not generally infavor of clipons. Too easily lost during close personal social contacts. I perfer a slide on. Here are two photos of the front and back of my favorite (1.5 inch belt). Regards =P

This morning I got an email advising the forum was up and running. It is better than ever. Kudos are in order for the effort. I have been tinkering with leather most of my life. As a youth, my grandfather was a jack-of-all-trades. For several years he owned a shoe shop and built custom orthopedic shoes, repaired shoes, and boots of all types. He spent some time on harness & saddle making and repair, including belts and holsters. I was introduced to leather craft then. It has always been an interest of mine and having spent some time in the saddle (granddad on my dads side had cattle) we at times made small repairs on broken tack. Years ago, I stopped in to visit a friend of mine at his old place. He had his holster shop in the front of the house back then. As I entered the shop area, I smelled the leather. There is something about that smell that took me back to my childhood when I worked for grandpa in the shoe shop shinning shoes on Saturday. The price was 4 bits a pair (2 for me 2 for the shop) . I carry a gun for a living and have since 1975. Commercial holsters are not always adequate for concealed carry. So I still stop in at my friends shop on occasion to visit, while trying to con him into putting me at the front of the list for something I need right now. ( I still have some of his very early work and that seems to help me on occasion). The secondary benefit is, I get smell that smell that triggers that child memory of time spent with my grandpa. I sure miss him. The reason for the post. I’m wondering if anyone (knowledgeable) has taken on the task (or would care to) of assembling a list of machines that could be of use as a guide for the machine challenged on their quest to find a snitcher for holsters / belts ect. While I have read the posts on the list looking for golden nuggets of knowledge on the topic. I’m sure there are as many opinions as there are thread and needle sizes to shade the subject. None the less it would be very helpful for the novice that wants to try their luck at moving up to the next level away from stitch markers, dremels and hand sewing which is difficult for arthritic hands. I’m thinking of the following as criteria for the machine selection / evaluation list: Learning curve, is an issue… Entry level, hand power stitcher, treadle machine, power machine Novice, intermediate, expert, pro. In my mind I would look at the following: price (it is after all a hobby), availability, ease of use (novice level). There is a wealth of knowledge on this list and I think such a list / guide would invaluable to those of us who are challenged in this area and want to take the next step. We just do not have the wherewithal for a 3000.00 hobby machine (more like 200 - 300). Thanks Jeff

You folks are great, Thanks for the help!

I was introduced to leather work at a young age by my Mother who did tooling and Grandfather who was a shoemaker and did saddle & harness work. I have some old tools here that I tinker with when I have free time. We (my son and I) recently received the following items from my mother’s estate. Spanish silver inlay spurs (one rosette missing) 1 spur strap missing Leather Secrets by F.O. Baird, Hardback copyright 1951, 71, 76, 82. ISBN 0-9182801-X. Condition is overall good. Some of the pages show’s wear at page crease. Tandy Craftool No. 42 Belts Galore by Al Stohlman, (no copyright listed). Tandy Batwing and shotgun chap patters. Copyright by Tandy leather craft. Leather cuffs – all things considered pretty good shape. Does anyone know where I might obtain a second copy of the Leather Secrets book at a reasonable price? I dont really want to take a chance on something happening to the one I have. Thanks Jeff (DoubleBarP)