DoubleBarP

Some time back I got the formula to make some Groon... Just strained the batch (gallon) and put it in a jug... Colored my first couple of holsters (look really black in the sun light). However my problem is the smell. My whole basement workshop smells of vinegar... It's the holsters.... How do I get that smell out of the holster? Can someone help PLEASE...

I consider myself a novice when it comes to leather craft. I only have about 30 or so holsters under mybelt so to speak. So consider the sourcewhen you read this. My observations: 1. Tooled leatherdoes not lend itself to detailed molding / boning as it washes out the tooling. (would aid in retention) 2. The particular design would work with a thumbsnap to aid in retention or a Chicago screw with rubber grommet to aid infriction to retain holster. 3. The design would also work with a retention snapas well that crosses the grip or slide. DBP

Well from my personal expireance the rough out portion of the leather makes the holster less likely to slip / move around during carry. I have carried holsters of this type from other makers and found it to be effective.... JMHO

I have cut it 50/50 water... thinking gonna just dip it... Sort of a pain but sure to provide an even coat.. Nice looking holster by the way.

I did a belt and sealed with resolene... It streaked and I ended up with some spots (excess). I sprayed it on per instructions... I did the same thing with my first SS holster and it turned out ok... Any suggestions???

Welcome Paul!. There is a LOT of information here and folks that are willing to help you on your journey... As a shop teacher you probably have some leather tools tucked away in some closet... Break those bad boys out... lol I go by DBP as Double Bar P. My family raised cattle in Duel and Grant County in the 60's and 70's and that was our brand... Always nice to hear from another Husker.. Regards

Thanks for the feedback. I have used a Jackass Rig for longer than I care to say. I have two one for revolver and one for pistol in both black and brown… Two jackass brand rigs and two others. I was asked by an acquaintance if I could build one for him… So I used one I had for inspiration. As I looked for it in my holster trunk I came across a really old one and used the straps for a pattern as they distribute the weight better (I have a shoulder issue) because they are wider in front. I decided to just use neatsfoot oil for my finish. dont know how that will work but hey its a prototype. The biggest drawback from an observer perspective is that when one carries in a shoulder rig of this style the muzzel is very visible to anyone behind the wearer… This makes some uncomfortable as you can imagine.. In the photos you see the shoulder straps are still wet as I dipped them so they were pliable so I could attach them to the holster. As I built the rig hardware became sort of an issue and I had to improvise in a few spots. I will be going to my favorite hardware store to look for suitable items for the next one.… I'm thinking some 5-6 cowhide for harness and 7-8 for my next one… If I go there. So far I have used 5-6 on micro pocket holsters, 7-8 on smallholsters, 8-9 on larger holsters… I have also discovered that leather weight makes a difference when it come to pattern and stitch lines as well as molding by hand or otherwise… Some have ended up so rigid they could be used for wheel blocks while you change a tire.. I am worried about mouth collapse in the event one would end upon the groundand rollover… But maybe I worry too much about such things that don't really matter…

The more I build the better they seem to get (or maybe I'm not being as critical as I should be)… Holster for a Para, S&W 36 / 60, and prototype Shoulder Rig for 1911 based on a Jackass rig circa 1975 – 76.. Learning how to finish is still a work in progress… (Note to self... shoulder rigs are a lot more work than I thought and probably not much profit margin based on manhours) An observation: Horse hide is not that easy to work with as it doesn't make sharp bends real well. Which brings up a question; Is there a tutoria lout there on what weight leather works better / worse for types of holsters? Found some info in an old Tandy catalog butthat may be biased based on products they sell… Feedback please....

The holster you are looking for is a U.S. Model, Right Hand 1912 Swivel Holster, made forthe 1911 .45 auto pistol. Original Rock Island design…. The origional pattern is out there but I was not able to locate it. I located these photos but no pattern (yet). Hope this helps DBP

Email sent DBP

Buff then polish then buff some more... Will give that a try Thanks DBP

Yes, coat of neutral shoe polish then Buff by hand... I'm learning the finish process is quite a challange. Not exactly like putting a spit shine on a pair of Cochran Jump Boots.... :-) . I'm at the 24 hour mark for the last dip dye holsters so I'll finish up and see how it goes…. My thanks to all who responded, and the tips on what works for you.. Regards: DBP

Thanks for the thoughtful replies I appreciate your taking the time to read and reply. I did some destructive testing today onanother holster that I used the airbrush method on. Three coats only just penetrated the surface of the leather... So now I understand why the finish wore off with some simple everyday wear…. As to the M&G it seems to be the same acrylic finish as the leather products only less expensive.. That said I did order some neutral resolute (at 5 times the cost) today to give that a try… Building holsters is a hobby I am learning. With time at the bench experimenting, reading some books and what I read here are the only resources I have immediately available to me…. If my post upset you a humbly beg your forgiveness. No offense intended…. Just put me on your ignore list…. That wayyou won't get aggravated…. That said, I have gone to just dipping the holsters in dye and then will letthem dry a full 24 hours…. By the way M&G provides a satin finish not glossy which is what I was looking for…. Regards DBP

Fiebing's Pro, 3 coats airbrushed on.... dry for 24 hours then mop and glow.... Just ordered some resolene and am going to dip dye the next one.... I'v got a gallon batch of vineagroon out in the shed that has been cooking for nealry a week. Gonna give that a try as well....]

Built a couple of holsters and used an air bursh to apply the dye.... Sent one to a guy and he got back to me about two weeks later with a question. Is the finish suppose to come off? Send a photo for front and back. Seat belt rub and his pants wore dye off.... I asked him to take a nail file and rub a quarter size spot on the back.... As I said Epic Fail on the finsh process on this one.... Going back to drawing board on this.. Anyone else have problems with air brush technique? How did you fix it? Or mabye I just need to rethink my finish process..... any feed back welcome DBP

I can sympathize with your confusion. I went through the same thing. This is what I did. I found myself a patch machine and did a little practice. It is mostly good for garment type leather. When it comes to belts and holsters ect. My patch machine just did not work. My next step was to visit my friend who is a custom holster maker to look at his machines ( Campbell Bosworth& Louberto No 9) and see what he uses and why. I then went to see an Amish harness maker who has a harness / saddle shop, and lots of machines. I had him stitch abelt for me as I wanted to see what an Adler would do. ( he also had singers, Pfaff, and a Landis #3)There were sever dropped stitches in the belt… I read everything I could here (Wiz had great info) and there is a lot of experienced folks willing to share knowledge. I visited a guy that has one of those nifty Tippman's who really like it. He seemed to spend a lot of time adjusting and re-adjusting while I was there. My last step was to send Bob Kovar an email asking if he had a customer near me that had a cowboy machine (hear nothing but good things). He contacted a customer about 3 hours away and who was willing to let me look at his 4500 and give his machine a test drive. I spent about 4 hours at his leather shop and took notes during my visit. The gentleman is a Professional Saddle maker very gracious and was a real pleasure to talk to he has several machines and got rid of hisTippman. He let me take his machine for a test drive. I sewed a gun belt laminated two pieces of 8 oz leather. And a holster laminated 5 – 8 oz leather. I ran a couple of test runs and did both the items without a hitch…. No dropped stitches, no tension issues…. I contacted Bob Kovar and ordered my CB3500 the next day…. The 2500 would have probably met my needs butI think it would have been working hard at times. He shipped it to my Wisconsin and I drove 1.5 hours to pick it up at the freight terminal. (I live in a rural area and no access to a fork lift). Once home and un-crated, my son helped me carry the components to the basement where we assembled same. It was adjusted ready to sew. After 3 months I am still trying to perfect my technique and am getting closer. I have a couple of shopping bags full of reject / practice pieces… ( I asked my friend the pro to evaluate the stitch and he thought it does a pretty good job… It is not a needle and awl machine but will work on anything that I can think of so it meets my needs… The servo motor lets you slow it way down to maintain very good control…. I now wish I had bought it years ago and not the patch machine…. Good luck... DBP

Finally a question I can answer. (Smith & Wesson Armorer School).. K frame is a model 19 or 66. L frame is a 586 / 686. L frame is the larger of the two. A ruger will not work for either due to size difference. Also a model 10 while it is a K frame it the ejector rod does not sit inside the barrel shroud like the 19 or 66. Hope this helps... DBP

A "GI" spec 1911 is just that. Nearly all manfactures make one. The biggest difference is when it comes to the "double stack" like para with a full length dust cover or the "tactical" models with pickatinny rails. They have 1, 2 or 3 slots. Springfields operator seems to be the most common configuration. Hope this helps DBP

The style is reminiscent of what I saw out west as a youth. My family was in the cattle business and everyone wore boots (in fact everyone I knew wore boots). As my granddad told me once the heel was designed so your foot would not get caught in a stirrup in the event you were bucked off, or the horse fell (praire dog hole)… . Double or single pegged shank? You just do not see many bootslike this anymore…. They are WAY cool. DBP

The saddle tan gave it a reddish sort of tint (based upon my color preception)... Thanks

Learned that saddle tan doesn't look that good on ostrich. Good thing it is a pocket holster… Tried to do an avenger style. dont have the belt angle right yet.... another one for the learning ben.... J frame revolver ok. Seems to be a little too high above belt. No flop but with a lesser belt there could be.... What do you think?

Guess I should just stick with DoubleBarP.... Starting to rethink the makers mark I ordered.... :-))))

Sorry no disrespect intended. Sticking my tongue out? Oh no... (guess I'm not versed in icons...). In the late 50's - 70's my family was in the cattle business and that was our brand =P as in Double Bar P...

Thank you.. =P

Dont want to hijack the thread. If someone would be so kind. I would like to start my first batch vinegaroon. What kind of vinegar is best, and what type of container do you store it in? During the fermentation process are there any evaporation issues or any off gasing to be concerned about. I'm thinking of a large batch as I want to "dip" my next project and that will require a gallon on more... I'm thinking of just a couple of gallons in a tupperwear container out in the shed to let it cook for awhile and then give it a try. Also what type of filter is best. Ie milk filters (I live in Dairy County) or coffee type... Thanks for the "learnin".... =P