MY63

I agree it is interesting the heads supplied for the Janik system are quite small I bought a pointed one and a roundish one which is pictured above I filed it flat and it smoothed leather on the 6 volt setting it burned the leather on all other settings. My next plan is to buy more heads and make replacement ends from brass and have them welded in place by the way the Janikl heads are £6 each so I am happy to buy some and mess around with them. These are my first attempts at replacements although looking at the picture I think this is too large I need them to be smaller that the Regad units as the janik has a little less power. 20170730_222644[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I did not see your post before I posted in leather work conversation. There is an option in the UK from the Turners retreat under the name "Janik" I read an older post about people using the Janik handles with a model train transformer with some success when I ordered the Janik unit this is what came. 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr As you can see from the second picture there is no mention of the Janik name made in France by REGAD it does work at a slightly lower temperature than the actual Regad units.

Like many people I have been watching videos of professional leather workers using the Fileteuse by Regad electric leather creasing machines. I thought about saving for the real deal but that may have taken some time I have read older posts about the Janik item offered by http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/pyrography-2/machines-and-machine-accessories/janik More within my price range so I sent them an email asking if it was suitable for leatherwork as well as wood burning. They replied promptly but could not offer any advice about its suitability I ordered one and this is what arrived 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr Please note it does not say Janik anywhere however it does say "REGAD" the tips ate quite small but they are only £5 each I have filed this one flat to make it more suitable for edges. I am going to speak to a local engineer about adding some brass that I can shape. Others have mentioned that these end units are infract inter changeable with the regard units This is my first attempt at forming an edge using it clearly more practice required. 20170727_204630[1] by my0771, on Flickr On the technical side the Fileteuse has more power up to 20 volts the Janik unit only goes to 12 volts anything more than 8 volts burns the leather I suspect the larger end pieces of the Fileteuse require a higher voltage to heat them.

I think this video might help you leather stretches more than you think.

Making watch straps is not as easy as it looks I have posted a video below that may help you to see how a watch strap is made. Good luck with your research

I have bought from Hilke she is indeed a good seller. With regard to Lin Cable if you want a couple of reels then it is worth contacting Mando in Paris they sell at wholesale prices to ordinary leatherworkers without a minimum purchase. I bought from them recently and paid under 15 euro for 332 they have a web site but you have to email for prices. but be aware they only accept bank transfer for payments and they also charge for delivery.

Thanks Mattsbagger I guess having worked with wood previously it is hard to break the habit of lightly sanding between coats I have tried to take a picture of the finished edges but it is quite difficult anyway here is the best picture. I did not want to use my new slickers on wet dye but I did and it worked out ok. 20170701_092222[1] by my0771, on Flickr Thanks Michael

I thought I would share my first use of my new slicker on a project. I moistened the edge and made three or four passes with the slicker as the edge is going to be dyed I wont do any more in fact I will lightly sand it to allow the dye to penetrate the leather. 20170630_103610[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Captquirk Yes as Bikermutt07 said it is Oak I was in the same position until I came across these guys here is one of my earlier efforts in walnut the length is about right but it was still too thin for my hand. 20170627_141207[1] by my0771, on Flickr Thanks Mattsbagger I thought Nigel had stopped doing them as they don't seem to be on his website anymore ? I had them made for my needs one has round grooves the other two have flat. As long as they slick the edges that is good enough for me.

One of our spaniels took a liking to my edge slicker, I had always thought it was a little on the small side especially as I have some restricted movement in my right hand. Anyway I decided to make my own by chance I was in my local Axminster tool store and asked the assistant if he knew of a local wood turner who might be able to make one for me. He told me that they have a demonstration day on Tuesdays and they would turn one for me FOC yes free. I ordered some oak from a timber merchant and worked out that the best thickness for my hand was 28 mm looking at the items I have made I decided to have multiple grooves of varying thicknesses. I had to buy a 1.8 m piece of timber and on arrival spoke to the man doing the demonstration he basically offered to make me as many as I wanted. I asked him to make three using one third of the wood I gave him the rest. Picture one shows what is left of the original with the larger replacement the inner part is rounded to give well rounded edges 20170621_105856[1] by my0771, on Flickr Picture two is the same style but with flat bottoms for square edges it also has an extra groove which was an error but not the end of the world. 20170621_105837[1] by my0771, on Flickr The final example has much less of a taper at the end to enable me to grip it with my damaged hand 20170621_105812[1] by my0771, on Flickr I would have been happy to pay someone to make them for me as they are so easy to use if anyone is interested they are 200 mm long and 28mm in diameter I chose grooves that suited the sizes of leather that I use the most.

It is a bit of both really I have also made a frame for my letter set however the edges are not very well finished and I find it difficult to get even impressions repeating initials is also difficult my sons initials are JJY. As I am sure you have found this is tricky I use a different letter for the second J then swap them to keep the spacing correct. There is a set on ebay for a reasonable price which I think will give the look that I want. I have also invested in an arbour press from Axminster tools I am going to adapt it to take pricking irons and some stamps. I do have some restriction in the movement in my right hand so I can only work for limited periods. I have just had some custom edge slickers made that are 28 mm in diameter so I can hold them.

Hi Bob Many thanks for the link lots of useful information. I have seen some on an auction site 24 point size which is around 8.5 mm for a capital letter but I am not sure. Thanks again Michael

Thanks Fedk I struggle with the Tandy letter sets I like the idea of the stamps fitting into a holder this would make things much easier for me. Le Prevo is my local supplier I have seen the sample plates in store and understand what you mean. After reading some old threads I have approached an ebay seller of printing type sets he is looking for a set that will work with leather. Those brass sets look really good I don't need a box as I am happy to make my own.

Thanks I cant find any photoengravers in the UK I wonder if it is called something different in the UK. I am sure they are good quality if I was a professional leatherworker I would definitely invest in a starter set. I was hoping that there may be someone here who had used one of the cheaper sets. I guess I need to think about investing in the Hexnhit set. Thanks Michael

Thanks fredk Any chance you could supply web sites. Thanks Michael

Like many others I have seen videos by Ian and Nigel about high quality professional stamps made from brass. I was wondering if anyone here has experience of the lower cost options from a forum sponsor or the various other ones available from the internet. Ideally I would like to start with a smaller set and expand this in the future if required. I have an arbour press and plan to use it hot and cold. Thanks Michael

I follow buckleguy on Instagram he is based in MA 01950 foundry made brass ware looks high quality. I have never ordered from them as I buy from Abbey England in the UK. https://www.buckleguy.com/frequently-asked-questions/ Regards Michael

After I posted this I was contacted by a member via PM with an alternative supplier in France who was willing to supply thread without a minimum purchase of 150 euros. I have asked their permission to share the prices. Mando Fr are an authorised supplier of Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable and carry the full range Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable 332 price 12.39 euro plus vat Fil Au Chinois Lin Cable 532 price 15.56 euro plus vat Delivery is via UPS and for my order was 16 euro These are whole sale prices from Mando France I have been dealing with José he can be contacted via email at this address mando.paris@wanadoo.fr their website does not contain prices but they are happy to provide them on request. I hope this helps others to try this excellent product.

I am by no means an expert however as you asked. i would not attempt to dye the whole thing black as some of the straps seem to be lined with sueded leather. I do think you could improve the look by finishing the edges with black edge kote by Fiebings it is easily available. Darker edges will change the look of the harness IMHO it is much easier than dying the whole thing. and welcome to the forum.

I used a local model store unfortunately it has since closed I will most likely use this store in future as I have ordered other items from them previously. Macclesfield Model Engineers I have attached a link to their website they are very helpful and respond to email questions quickly. https://maccmodels.co.uk/

Thanks my customers were very happy indeed let me know if you need help with a key. Michael

The leather on my bag looked good until I removed the stitching the remaining leather along the bottom turned to dust. Once I had a buyer who wanted to carry up to 20 fountain pens inked (vertical) I created a new outer cover and a folding inner section to accommodate her wishes. IMG_0584_1 by my0771, on Flickr This picture was provided by the owner 20 pen case 1 by my0771, on Flickr Having thought about it I am pretty sure the rivets were bifurcated rivets rather than peened rivets. I struggled to find the tiny rivets that held the bag edges to the metal piece so I used tiny nuts and bolts which gave an industrial look. I have a few of these small bags in my restoration queue some of which may need a leather lining I did restore a larger case which was carried in the Second world war by a USAAF Ranger. DSC_0277[1] by my0771, on Flickr I think it worked really well I wanted to dye the Kip a darker colour but the owner wanted to allow it to colour naturally. If I can be of any help please feel free to ask.

I have restored such a bag in the past I used white metal rivets which I got from a model store in the UK. Those little sliders need special care I managed to release the little folded over metal tabs that secure them and even managed to get them back on unfortunately I had to remove one a second time. One of the little tabs broke off a model train supplier came to my rescue with a 1 mm diameter nut and bolt to fix it in place. IMG_0456_1 by my0771, on Flickr As you can see I had to change the leather too.

I would like to order some Lin Cable thread from France if I order 12 spools there is a significant discount I cant justify that expenditure in one go. if there is anyone else who would like to order with me I am happy to share the discount. regards Michael

Hi Christine I have posted a link to a member here who teaches saddle making I have not taken his course and don't know him but I have watched many of his videos and my stitching has improved. Michael