eransh10

Looks great - if you have a drill press and a latte... In my case - it will be cheaper buying one from Tandy. Regardless - its nice work.

Is it all hand stitched? Regardless - beautiful work !!!

OK, You must provide a picture as an example. If you mean patina - than antique paste/gel is it. If you mean Platina (the metal) than this is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Lumiere-Metallic-Acrylic-Ounces-Pearlescent/dp/B007Y0D0A6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1482334632&sr=8-13&keywords=acrylic%2Bleather%2Bpaint&th=1

Hi there - here is my 2 cents: On veg tanned leather - burnish the edges than use acrylic paint on it (for looks), just make sure to choose acrylic pain that is flexible when dry (something like Jacquard Lumiere paints). On non veg tanned leather the Jacquard Lumiere paints should work. Again - test before you apply on your finished project. Also - what kind of products you try this on ?

I get it now. I think that she also goes with some sort of wooden block covered with cloth to remove the acrylics from the raised surface - than she is left with acrylic only in the cuts. I'm also guessing she dilutes the acrylic with water and that's why she can wipe it with cloth.

All I can say is WOW !!! This is great for first project. Myself - I'm also photo hobbyist but ever since I got into iphonography - I stopped using my wide format film cameras . Welcome!!!

Not sure what you mean but this person glue an embossed piece of leather into leather lining - probably cow or pig split.

I agree with all the above. My take on it: if you really want light color leather - first bleach it (with oxcalic acid mixture for leather) and than use acrylic finish on it. The issue you will have is that the acid will make the leather more stiff and if you oil it - it will darken.

Hi, Does anyone has an idea how this effect is done? https://www.etsy.com/listing/448742294/leather-dog-collar-turquoise-black?ref=shop_home_active_24 I refer to the turquoise in the cuts that is there just like regular antique but its turquoise not black. So - how can one achieve a similar look ?

Very well done. From the look of it - I can only assume you used Ian Atkinson pattern pack ???

Hi Widget, The top right coaster was done first. I didn't do the decorative cuts properly there. Since than Ive learned and what really helped me learn is a video in tandy blog by jim linell. Here is the video - pay close attention to how he does the decorative cuts. http://blog.leathercraftlibrary.com/2015/11/02/learning-leathercraft-with-jim-linnell-lesson-8-decorative-cuts/

Hi all, When I do leather feather (never did earings - but it's pretty easy once you made the feather) - like this one: https://www.etsy.com/listing/209830789/earrings-with-feather-crow-raven-feather?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=feather%20leather%20earing&ref=sr_gallery_23 I always wonder how does the flesh side of the feather looks like ?? In the photoes they always show the top side but never how it looks from the flesh side. I need some ideas about how can it be done in a way that I can make these for my daughter. Ideas are welcomed.

Hi, The collar is for a large dog (brown lab) that's why it's 1.5" wide. As for rivets: I did used to use regular rivets but they are not strong if the dog pulls during a walk. These rivets are actually copper rivets and these won't move to anywhere. I'm sure the dogs neck will break way before these rivets will get loose. This collar was actually made for my dog and it holds really well. Lining the collar- I though about it but it's too much work and I don't have sewing machine. Also there is no real reason to do it since I used the press tool to set these rivets and so far (I made it over a month ago) not a single hair was caught in it. Thanks for the feedback though. You also mentioned the way I lined the rivets: I used an acrylic template from black river laser to do it. They have great stuff there!!!

Hi, Please see my first try in carving leather coasters. Feedback is appreciated (positive or Negative !!)

No. Phone number of the owner.

I just finished my 3rd dog collar (1st one I used crystal rivets in the design). I would appreciate your opinion about it.

I agree with everything said here -especially with Boriqua. As for my 2 cents: If you want ot cut production times for the deck box - change the design. Instead of gusset design - use a wooden mold pouch type design. This way your stitches are much easier. Also as what previous person said - use Celtic stamps or Tandy 3d stamps: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/3-d-leather-stamps Most people will not know the difference between stamps and carving. From what I can see a custom molded deck box with leather stamps - should take you about 1-2 hours of work after your first prototype. Hope it helps. Eran.

Looks good for 1st leather item you ever made. Better than my first. The only thing I would suggest is to burnish your leather edges and finish them better. Eran.

Hi, I recently saw this video: Its about how to design your own pancake style holster. Very informative and exactly what you need if you are going to design one yourself. Enjoy !!!

Thank you for the tips. I guess I made 2 mistakes than: 1) applied only 1 coat of super sheen. 2) didn't wait for leather to dry.

I'm trying to use super sheen to resist the antique gel in order to have the gel only (mostly) in the cuts and stamps. For some reason I'm getting the attached result. Steps I follow: One coat of super sheen and than antique gel. Issue obviously is - why am I getting this stained look (which I'm not after)?? Any help would be appreciated.

Here is what it can be used for:

Hi, I'm trying to use Eco weld (water based contact cement by Tandy) in order to replace tanner bond (contact cement by tandy as well). My past experience with water based contact cement is that it will be ok for applications not requiring too strong bond - like holding the pieces of leather before sweing. I never felt it's as strong as regular (non water based) contact cement. However - I'm getting sick from the smell of the normal contact cement. Any tips, tricks or ideas about this subject?

If your dye is water based I'd use: Eco-Flo Professional Finish by tandy. Did many tests and it's as good as it gets. It works well on oil dyes as well but it's recommended for water based dyes only.

Love the dye job. How did you make it happen? What's the secret recipe?