ryan

Nice wristbands! I see they are starting to turn into an "in" thing these days. I have been making cuff cases similar to the one you made there for a couple years. I must say, I do agree with Randy C on the clips, if someone just had to have a cuff case to go on and off the belt, you could try pull the dot snaps. My suggestion (if you want to make some quick sales) is show that case to local law enforcement and you're guaranteed some orders. Not many LE supply companies sell cuff cases like that that go on 2.25" duty belts and cops love em!! And since I am such a nice guy I will show my other hot seller; it's a case for a large SL-20 type flashlight. To give some insight as to the size, the cutout is from a 1.5" strap end punch. These cases allow you to wear a light your entire shift and never have to take it out and it eliminates slapping you in the when you run unlike those stupid rings. Pictured left to right is a Stinger style flashlight case, cuff case, silent key keeper, Razr phone case and the Sl 20 light case. I appologize for the picture quality. Let me know if any of this made sense Ryan

Those are really nice, I like the color choice. I can't wait to make my first pair of rodeo chaps!

Bruce, I had to read your post about three times til I got the frozen deer thing! You have to give me credit though, it was about 10 below when I took the pictures so I wasn't concerned too much about the background! I bet you don't miss the cold. I just got home from ice fishing and you're not missing much there either. My wife and I live in Guthrie which is just South of Bemidji and about 3.5 hours N of Minneapolis. We grew up here and love it but often fanasize about moving down to Texas. We plan on getting down there one of these days to take the honeymoon we never really took! It would be hard to leave MN though; I would miss the scenery, hunting, and fishing and they treat their cops pretty good too!! Thanks for the kind words and all the knowledge you have shared with everyone on the forum thus far. Ryan

Does anybody know where to get something similar to the tool Bill Gomer uses in his video to smooth leather. It looks like a bone folder but much thicker and more of a round shape to it. He says he made it out of plexiglass I think but I can't find any that thick and wouldn't know how to shape and smooth it. Stohlman used something similar but it was square and he had a wood handle on it. I use a porcelin drawer pull on a wood handle along with a por door knob both work ok but that plexiglass deal Gomer has looks a lot better. Any ideas? Ryan

This pair was for my farrier and I'm not sure what he'll be using them for but it's the second pair I've made for him (and no he won't be using them while he's trimming horses ). I attathced a pic of the last pair I made him. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on leggings will chime in since my experience with chaps and chinks is fairly limited. Besides, a Minnesotant educating a Texan on leggings might cause the sky to fall or something . I am unsure as to the reason chinks are shorter but it's my experience that they are probably more comfortable to ride in being you don't have the extra leather below the knee. Having never rode in shotguns, I can't say for sure though. I suppose they would be a bit cooler and considerably lighter - maybe a bit easier to get on too! After being kicked in the shins by plenty of calves, I would much rather be wearing shotguns when working cattle on the ground though! On a horse, I would probably opt for chinks.

Broncobuster, I just use an old 3/8" punch that's in rough shape and grind off one side. I suppose you mess up the temper by doing it this way and they don't last very long but it gets me by. I haven't had a chance to order a 3/8" round strap end punch which would serve the same purpose and last longer. Ryan

I finally got these done today. I have over 600 1/4" Brass spots into them. Let me know what you think, and as always, I'm open to suggestions / critiques. Thanks Ryan

Thanks

Ben, Yeah, that helps a lot. A have been having a hell of a time coming up with prices lately. I gotta get out of that, "oh, I don't no, 20 bucks" quoting strategy! Where did you get your Harry Adams book? I have looked everywhere and can't find it. Thanks Ryan

I see Proleptic Inc has got a good selection of books available. I was looking at Pete Gorrells pattern book and How to Establish Prices for the Leatherworker. Has anybody seen these yet and how did you like them. I am also looking for a copy of Harry Adams saddle making book that some people have referred to on this post. Thanks Ryan

Thats what I was hoping to hear. I have been thinking about getting Nuebets video. Ryan

I wouldn't throw em to the dog; thats for sure! Braiding looks good. How long have you been braiding and how did you learn? Keep up the good work!! Ryan

I have been lingering around this forum for a while now and figured I'd post a picture finally. I have been working on a website but it's taking me longer than I had hoped. I can't tell you how much I appreciate everyone's input on this forum. I have learned more in two weeks about this business than the last year on my own. I currently run a side business doing leatherwork, but I am a Police Officer the rest of the time. I do mostly holsters and such but I really want to get into custom saddle work. Here's a picture of some of my latest work, some notebooks, wallets, belts and some hair on hide pillows. The chaps are show chaps I made for my wife (and her horse BMQ Chipped by Stars "Chip") Thanks again for everyones contributions Ryan Fisher

I am building a pair of hair on chinks with spots. I have done several projects with spots now and I guess I don't mind setting them too much. I use a piece of heavy iron with duct tape covering it and the type of setter with the sliding collar. Every now and then, one won't set quite right and I have to pull it and set another. I guess we all have our pet peeves; mine is stitching by hand!! I am charging extra for the spots but not too much since I really wanted to make a pair of hair ons with spots!! I hope to have them done this weekend so I'll be sure and post a picture. Ryan

Thanks for the info, I'll be sure and check our Mcmaster. As for the holster, I might just convince her that threading a holster on her belt is worth the extra effort than losing her gun @65 mph down the highway Ryan

I am a Police Officer and have never cared much for paddle holsters for retention reasons, therefore, I have never looked closely at one. Now I have a customer who wants one and I don't know how to go about making the paddle. I am not crazy about using anything plastic but a piece of skirting leather would probably be too bulky. What does everyone else think? P.S. not a fan of belt clips either and the customer was insistent that it be a paddle holster. Oh and it's for a compact .38 - hammerless and it's for a women who wants it for going on motorcycle trips. Since I have your attention, where does everyone get the gum rubber for their mold presses? I always wondered how everyone was doing that - thanks Boomstick!! Ryan

Ohio Travel Bag has them too. Ryan

I don't know much about re-enactment gear but I know Weaver seems to have a good selection those types of findings - mainly Civil War Era. Ryan

I agree whole-heartedly! It's just too bad that there are great products out there and no one can get their hands on them! Ryan

This is a great post!! I am happy to hear that TCD and Big Sky are high quality. I see Weaver is selling ready made dies too but they're pretty proud of theirs! Like Bruce, I use a hydraulic press. I got mine from Northern Tool for under $100. It has been worth it's weight in gold for doing embossing and cutting out conchos. Just a word of caution if anyone decides to use one. I see a lot of machine shops have cages around theirs and for good reason. A lot of times, the bottle jack isn't welded to the cross bar and it would be very possible to have it come slipping out under pressure. Having heard some horror stories, I now stand off to the side when using mine!! Ryan

Bruce, Seems to me someone knew who bought the patent to the Veach buckles; was it you? Maybe someone should try and contact them and try to persuade them to either start manufacturing them or sell the patent to someone who will. I believe they are missing out on some sales don't you? I am fairly new to this site and it seems to be a hot topic. Just a thought Ryan

Here's my two cents; your probably aren't going to find a machine that'll do 3 oz to 20 oz. Everyones going to tell you theirs can though! I have an Adler 205 and love it. Yeah they're $5500 and yeah my monthly payment gobbles up most of my profits (at least for the next 24 months LOL). My opinion is if you're serious about leather work, buy a good machine and save yourself the heartache. It's tempting to pay less but you get what you pay for. I am not bad mouthing any of the machines you're interested in as I haven't run any of them. I will say this, if you buy an Adler from Vernon at Weaver; you won't look back. You'll have another couple hundred into accessories but you'll have a machine that will out live you. As for the deerskin; I hate to tell ya but you're better off having two machines. You don't want to have to keep switching tensions and stuff all the time and you don't want all the wear and tear sewing little things on a heavy duty machine. The good news is you can get into a Singer 111w like mine for under $500 and they sew great. Yeah I know this puts you at about three times what you want to spend but it's all about how serious you are. If you are interested, I could put you in touch with a guy in SD who rebuilds machines and usually has some good needle and awl machines for sale and usually some flatbeds. Ryan

David, How do you like the polymax from farmtek? Also, how big of a sheet did you get and was it expensive to ship. I was thinking about getting a 4x8 sheet of the polyethylene in 1/2" but would consider the 1/4" if it wears well. thanks ryan

You could try Bruce Cheaney. I think his site is prosaddles.com otherwise just google him.

I now what you mean about the old tack look! What are you making? If you are making tack, I would recommend harness leather which is usually "hot stuffed" and will usually have that nice rich color you're looking for. The only downfall is that it doesn't tool well. If you are going to stick with Veg Tanned leather then I agree with experimentation. I have had good results with Fiebings (sp) Pro Oil Dye thinned with Tan Kote. I believe I've been using Light Brown. I'm not a measuring cup kind of guy but I would quess it's something like 3 parts Pro Dye to 1 Tan Kote? Speaking from experience, use the items and before long they will have that look you want. Horse sweat, horse manure, dirt, mud, and sunshine sure seem to make leather look good with time!! hope this helps Ryan